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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Remove old varnish

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LOREN SOUERS
Navigator

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USA
100 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/08/2003 : 16:49:53

Hello!
I know someone out there has had this experience. I bought my C25 in 2000 and it had varnish on the teak. We had never had a boat with varnished teak before, but decided to keep it that way. After 3 summers, I have changed my mind. The varnish seems to need constant attention or it looks bad. So, I want to go back to oiled teak.

Problem. Get the varnish off of the teak. Quite a bit is pealing off. But sanding off the rest is MAJOR work. So, I would like to use chemicals such as a stripper from the hardware store. Issue 1: I certainly don't want to harm my gelcoat. Issue 2: I just put Poli-glow on the hull and I don't want to ruin my finish with some chemical.

Anyone out there with experience on this? I certainly can try to be careful when scraping off the finish so as not to let any go over the side onto the poly-glow, but will probably have to rinse at some point.

I would appreciate any advice. Thanks.

Loren, skipper
Nimue, the Lady of the Lake

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2003 : 17:18:29

I'm far too anal to remove teak coatings while still attached to the boat . . . however you may find the aluminum window frames and/or plexiglass more sensitive than the gel coat.

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Shawn
1st Mate

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USA
62 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2003 : 21:26:05

Loen,
I have removed the teak from the topsides so I could do the sanding and refinishing at home. This gives me both shade and that wonderful invention, electricity. I keep my boat on a mooring, so being able to plug in power tools (sanders) is not an option. Removing and replacing the teak is not difficult. About one afternoon for each end, and having the parts at home is very convenient.
Shawn
1980 C25 tr/fk #1960

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2003 : 21:27:18

I would recommend removing the teak and refinishing off the boat. This is exactly what I did in the fall of 2001 after I hauled out for the winter. By removing the teak and refinishing it over the winter at home in the garage, I was able to take my time and get excellent results.

Additionally, since it was done over winter and not during the sailing season, no valuable sailing time was taken from North Star.

<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>Don Lucier<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d904b3127cce9f7cd9ffdf1d0000003010" border=0>
North Star SR/FK

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2003 : 22:30:16

Heat gun and a few shaped scrapers. Dont use to much heat or char anything. Warm varnish is easy to scrape off. Take it easy and do a little at a time.

Doug&Ruth
Triska (Alberg 29)
Tacoma Wa.

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2003 : 23:59:51

I'd use a 'Detail Sander' with triangular shaped head in combination with some sandpaper.

Get the loose varnish off and wood smoothed out... (IMHO)then refinish with Sikkens Cetol "Light". It builds well and is pretty 'tolerant' of an imperfect base.

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2003 : 00:00:43

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3324 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2003 : 00:18:41

I agree with Doug - a heat gun (used judiciously!) and a scraper
is definitely the easiest way. Varnish tends to clog sandpaper rather quickly.
Derek

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3dc30b3127cce942c608d6f1e0000001010" border=0>
TRFK#2262"This Side Up"

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Dave B
Admiral

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Mali
863 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2003 : 10:01:56

Whew! My favorite subject! <img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle> I just got done removing, sanding, Cetoling, and replacing my exterior teak--all except the little decorative "wings" on both sides of the companionway (which have screws under exterior plugs). Everything else unscrewed from the inside. What may be the least fun and biggest mess is the 18-year-old caulk and amber goo under it.

Loren: Do you know what the PO used? If by any chance it's Cetol, you can sand the flaking parts off and recoat with several coats to make it look even. (That's the beauty of Cetol.) Then a quick coat before each season should keep it looking good. Just an option...

Now a question for others who removed and replaced... When a few of the handrail bolts turn inside their plugged holes (after you've bedded and reattached the rails), what do you do about it to tighten the nuts on those bolts??

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT

Edited by - dave b on 07/09/2003 10:03:43

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3324 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2003 : 10:27:44

Dave - you have bolts attaching your handrails? On "TSU" the rails are screwed down from inside the cabin.
Derek

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3dc30b3127cce942c608d6f1e0000001010" border=0>
TRFK#2262"This Side Up"

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LOREN SOUERS
Navigator

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USA
100 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2003 : 15:17:16

Wow, what a help you guys are! And what a great association! I just renewed my membership last month and it sure is worth it.

Thank you all for your suggestions. I think we, my wife and I, are tired of the varnished teak right now, wo we want to remove the varnish and just oil. We had oiled teak on the last three boats. The finish is Sikkens ...(?). I think it is supposed to be good stuff. But we just touched it up last year and it really needs it badly again. So... we go to oil.

I think before I start taking off teak at this time (sailing season) I am going to try the heat gun approach mentioned by some. Perhaps this is silly, but can I use a hair dryer set on high? I would think that would be quite hot w/o the heat required for burning.

Thanks again, and smooth sailing to all.

Loren Souers, skipper
Nimue, the Lady of the Lake

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svmoxie
Past Commodore

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USA
331 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2003 : 15:54:06

Loren,

A hair dryer won't generate enough heat to do the job, you will need to either purchase or rent a heat gun from your local tool rental place.

Also an assortment of good scrapers makes the job easier... try your local woodworkers store for those and a file to keep a nice edge on the scrapers.

Or even easier... leave it alone and let time remove the varnish for you. Looks ugly but it sure is easy to do! <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

Clif Thompson
Treasurer C-25/250 National Association.
svMoxie '81 25 sk

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5913 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2003 : 16:03:29

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Now a question for others who removed and replaced... When a few of the handrail bolts turn inside their plugged holes (after you've bedded and reattached the rails), what do you do about it to tighten the nuts on those bolts??<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Dave - It has been a long time since I took mine off, but if I remember correctly, I poured a little epoxy around them to keep them from turning. They don't have to be drawn down really tight.

Steve Milby "Captiva Wind" C-25 T/FK #2554

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Dave B
Admiral

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Mali
863 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2003 : 23:44:56

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Dave - you have bolts attaching your handrails? On "TSU" the rails are screwed down from inside the cabin.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Yup... Each side has 4 bolts with heads under plugs in the top of the rails, and the rest of the loops use screws from below. That made it easy to bend the rails while remounting them. But two of the bolts turn under the plugs, and now the rails are bedded... I may try pushing them up to push the plugs out, drop some epoxy in, and replace the plugs. However, the screws and other bolts seem to be holding the rails down well enough to compress the caulk, so I may give up on tightening the nuts on the two loose bolts.

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT

Edited by - dave b on 07/09/2003 23:49:32

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