Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Her owner took some mighty nice teak and, deciding he had a better (read cheaper)idea than what everybody suggested, used something he had left over from treating his deck (as in house).
Now her woodwork looks like old oak rotting away and turning black. The next owner will really have fun with it since he also failed to heed everbody's advice and bedded it in 5200.
He is a newby at sailing, and it appears his information highway runs only one way-- outbound.
Dave and Buzz, Thanks for the advice, I am a little nervous about taking off the teak- fortunately, I don't need to do the companionway trim and boards right now, they didn't need much done and still look ok... My coming compartments trim pieces are really bad, though, how do you get them off??? And of course we have had two straight weeks of rain so I'm just looking for the window of sunshine to get out there and start taking it off. How do you get the handles off the cabin top??? Also, should I use a drill to get them off, or do it by hand? (don't want to force or wreck anything...) Thanks again, as I am sure you all have covered this a couple of dozen times previously!!! Karen :)
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Dave and Buzz, Thanks for the advice, I am a little nervous about taking off the teak- fortunately, I don't need to do the companionway trim and boards right now, they didn't need much done and still look ok... My coming compartments trim pieces are really bad, though, how do you get them off??? And of course we have had two straight weeks of rain so I'm just looking for the window of sunshine to get out there and start taking it off. How do you get the handles off the cabin top??? Also, should I use a drill to get them off, or do it by hand? (don't want to force or wreck anything...) Thanks again, as I am sure you all have covered this a couple of dozen times previously!!! Karen :)
I would suggest that to initially loosen the screws on the teak trim pieces you use a screwdriver ... once you get the screw started out you could switch to a power drill/screwdriver to save you some time & work. The reason I mention this is that it's easy (at least for me <img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle> ) to strip out the head of the screw with a power tool ... you've got more control with a regular screwdriver.
The teak trim around the coaming compartments on my boat was screwed on with four small screws that screwed directly into the fiberglass. BTW, my trim pieces were so awful I replaced them with the white plastic ones from Catalina Direct ... 'no regrets.
There were no handles on the sliding cabin top of my boat when I got her ... I added a couple of brass handles that I mounted with screws from the inside of the cabin ... it's a good bet that the handles on your boat are mounted the same way.
'Hope that helps. Try not to worry about taking this stuff off ... it's not that bad ... just take your time. Believe me, your boat will look great when you've got the teak refinished!
Good luck!
OH ... one last thing ... I would also suggest you take some baggies with you ... bag & label the screws so you'll know which pieces they came from ... that'll make it MUCH easier to put the stuff back on when you get it back to the boat next spring (don't ask me how I know this).
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> How do you get the handles off the cabin top??? <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> If you mean the long handrails, they're screwed from the inside of the cabin. Mine had a combination of screws and bolts--one or the other for each "foot" on the rail. The bolt heads are inside the handrail, under pegs. Nuts inside the cabin hold the bolts. I had trouble with the bolts turning, which made it hard to remove the nuts. A little WD40 helped the nuts to turn easier, and some upward pressure with vice-grips while turning the nuts eventually did it. The bolts turn out to be helpful for re-mounting the rails, since they require some bending.
Be sure to rebed them with polysulfide--hand tightening, letting it set up, and then cranking them down.
I did the coaming compartment trim rings on the boat, using a very small foam brush--I was nervous about removing and possibly breaking them. Catalina Direct's plastic rings are a good alternative.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
I re-bedded and refinished all the teak this summer.
I found I did not have to pop the wooden plugs over the bolts on the hand rails to get the nuts off inside the cabin. I just took the nuts off and removed the screws, and then I worked slowly with a thin bladed knife between the cabin top and rail to break the seal.
Don't jerk up on a rail or you may end up with multiple pieces-- just slide the blade in a little at a time. With luck the bolts will pull out with the rail, and still be fixed enough to allow you to tighten the nuts back up with out having to get a tool on the head.
I too re did the coaming trim with out removing it.
To get the trim off the companion way, you will first need to remove the trim just inside the cabin to expose the screws holding the outside trim to the cabin.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> ...I found I did not have to pop the wooden plugs over the bolts on the hand rails to get the nuts off inside the cabin. I just took the nuts off and removed the screws, and then I worked slowly with a thin bladed knife between the cabin top and rail to break the seal. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Sorry if I made it sound like I removed the plugs--I didn't, but I had trouble with a couple of bolts turning. I may push the plugs up so I can get some epoxy in there to keep the bolt heads from turning. I still haven't been able to tighten the nuts on them very well. Yours may be fine.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I still haven't been able to tighten the nuts on them very well. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Dave,
I used a small pair of vise grips with just barely enough pressure to get a grip on the end of the bolt, but not enough to mash the threads.
J.B. Manley Antares '85 FK/SR #4849 Grand Lake O' the Cherokees 36°29'58" -94°59'59"
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I used a small pair of vise grips with just barely enough pressure to get a grip on the end of the bolt, but not enough to mash the threads. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Hmmmm... But mine are acorn nuts--nothing to grab hold of. I'll have to take another look--maybe I can a flat nut above the acorn.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.