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Mooring and boomvang questions

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steephen
Navigator

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100 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/14/2003 : 16:51:31

First of all: SPLASHDOWN!! C25 (1667) "Little Wing" went wet this Friday in New Hampshire, and we sailed her up to her home in Portland, Maine. It's the first time the boat's been in the water in five years.

Question. I'm thinking of making a bridal for the two small bow cleats, so as to share the load on the two of them at mooring. I'd pass the bridal from one cleat, through the mooring line loop, and attach to the other cleat. Anyone see problems with this?

Question. There's no boomvang installed on the 1980 model, and I'm thinking I might want one for higher wind conditions. Has anyone installed one? Do they make a kit, or can I just buy and install bails and tackle?

Stephen Z.

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Heartbeat
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USA
161 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2003 : 17:01:54

Mooring-
Probably a good idea there, but (as always) watch for chafe or add chafe protection.

Vang-
They make bails that you can rivet on to the boom, and another that can be riveted on to the mast*. After that it's just the blocks and the line. There are 4:1 kits available from marine shops. My 4:1 wasn't quite as much purchase as I wanted, so I put a cascade on it to make it 8:1. It still isn't as powerful as I would like it, so I'll be going to 12:1, I expect.

-Matt

* My boat had an eye that is screwed into the extrusion at the bottom of the mast, but I don't recommend it. It gets in the way if you tilt the mast backward to pull the rig down.

Heartbeat
Catalina 25 Tall
#4816

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2003 : 17:40:44

I think you're better off keeping the buoy line low - using the bow eye. This way Little Wing isn't pulling up as much on the buoy. As mentioned by Heartbeat, using the cleats introduces chafing issues.
Good luck.

Edited by - OJ on 07/14/2003 17:41:42

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2003 : 19:35:59

I don't recomend using the bow eye. It wasn't designed for mooring from and does not have enough backing. Use the cleats on the bow. You can access and beef up the backing. Sounds like your getting the mooring dance. Yes you can make a bridal. You can use old hose pipe to prevent chafe of visit your local fire house and beg some old fire hose it works great too.

Doug&Ruth
Triska (Alberg 29)
Tacoma Wa.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2003 : 20:44:04

When I purchased North Star, the backing plate(wood block) on the bow eye had rotted away because moisture had leaked in. When I replaced the wood block, I vaguely remember noting that from the inside I could see light up and down the bow crease(where the two sides meet) through the apparently thin hull.

You may want to inspect the bow eye backing block, especially those who trailer, to make sure it is in good shape since moisture can come in from either the bow eye or the anchor locker.

<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>Don Lucier<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d904b3127cce9f7cd9ffdf1d0000003010" border=0>
North Star SR/FK

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Dave B
Admiral

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Mali
863 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2003 : 21:14:35

Doug is right--the cleats (two of them with four bolts) take shear forces (roughly parallel to the deck) instead of being pulled directly like the single bolt of the bow eye. Chafe is minimized by not leading through any harsware, like chocks. In major storm winds with big chop, this can make a difference. Another difference is convenience--how do you hook up to a bow eye from the bow when you're at a mooring<img src=icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle> I prefer the bow cleats. A bridle is the right solution.

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT

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steephen
Navigator

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100 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2003 : 22:14:38

Bow eye?? You guys must have bought the deluxe models, because I didn't get chocks or an eye. But the decking is pretty thick up front, and I think a bridal will do it in terms of spanning both cleats.
Thanks for the dirt.
Stephen Z

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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2003 : 22:39:03

"Wood Duck" (#2616) lives on a mooring. Here is my set-up:

I use 3/4" mooring pennant spliced around a galvanized eye attached through a shackle to the mooring chain (make sure to seize the shackle with Monel seizing wire). The mooring line splits five feet forward of the bow, and each line has a loop for the cleat and fire hose attached for chafing gear so that as she swings on the mooring the bow does not ruv directly against the mooring pennant. I made the pennant myself; the splicing is easy to do--just buy some one-foot sections of mooring line or dock line to practice on.

Mooring to the bow eye will likely result in failure in a storm. the problem is less the wind than it is the chafing due to swinging and pitching.

A bridle is a good short-term solution when morring to a pennant that is too big for the cleats. But it is not a good long-term solution.

A boom vang is essential equipment, especially since--if it has snap shackles on each end--it can be used for winching heavy loads aboard, including an MOB who cannot get himself back on board. It can also be used for raising mooring balls and chain and installing the winter stick.

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 07/15/2003 : 01:45:02

Matt,<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Vang ... 4:1 wasn't quite as much purchase as I wanted, so I put a cascade on it to make it 8:1. It still isn't as powerful as I would like it, so I'll be going to 12:1, I expect.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>I like having a high ratio boom vang myself. I built a 7:1 vang for my 1979 C-25. However, it's definitely possible to rip out a gooseneck with a high ratio vang, I've done it.<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

Here's an easy way to blow out a gooseneck without even thinking about it. Beating in heavy air, start by hauling the mainsheet in plenty tight. Then snug down hard on the high ratio vang to further flatten the sail and reduce twist. Later, head off onto a broad reach, easing the mainsheet. As the boom moves further off the centerline, the still tight vang, in resisting leech twist, will place an enormous side load on the mast via the gooseneck.<img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle> In most cases, the gooseneck U-joint is the weak link.

I favor the high ratio vang mostly for ease of operation and fine tuning. I don't try to see how tight I can get it with both hands and feet.

-- Leon Sisson

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3323 Posts

Response Posted - 07/15/2003 : 11:48:20

Matt - I have an 8 to 1 vang on "This Side Up" and if I REALLY pull on it I can bow the boom!! That ratio is obviously plenty big enough!
Also, if you don't have that dumb cleat block for it at the base of the mast, but bring the line back to a cleat at the cockpit, it makes adjustment much easier.
Derek

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3dc30b3127cce942c608d6f1e0000001010" border=0>
TRFK#2262"This Side Up"

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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 07/15/2003 : 12:06:00

"Also, if you don't have that dumb cleat block for it at the base of the mast, but bring the line back to a cleat at the cockpit, it makes adjustment much easier."

...or at least turn the vang 180% so the cleat block is at the boom and accessible from the companionway.

J.B. Manley, Antares '86 FK/SR #4849
Grand Lake O' The Cherokees, NE Oklahoma

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