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Biminis Again

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Dave B
Admiral

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Mali
863 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2003 : 22:06:09

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Bimini headroom is 71" above cockpit sole<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

J.B.,

I don't know the exact measurement from my cockpit sole to my bimini, which is 1" below the boom, but I'm sure it's not 6ft(maybe 5ft?).

How did you get so much room under your boom?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
I wondered that, too... I figure about 64" maximum--probably a couple of inches less.

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2003 : 22:17:47

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>I figure about 64" maximum--probably a couple of inches less.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Sounds about right. I'm not positive, but I believe my boom height is 61" off the cockpit sole with the main tightly sheeted in.

<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>Don Lucier<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d904b3127cce9f7cd9ffdf1d0000003010" border=0>
North Star SR/FK

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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2003 : 11:53:36

Hi guys,

Jump up and down on the cockpit sole forcibly and repetitively to stretch the fiberglass out. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> No, but seriously...

Sorry, I forgot to explain that part. The 71" measurement is the MAXIMUM headroom obtainable. At dock, the boom is held just above the forward inner tensioner on the bimini by the topping lift. When under way, the mainsail holds the boom just barely touching that forward inner tensioner with minimal mainsheet tension (i.e., light air close reach). Of course, this configuration works for beams, broads and runs. As wind velocity picks up on close reachs, I first collapse (i.e., fold forward) the forward inner tensioner to the forward main frame at about 10 kts, then collapse the aft inner tensioner at about 15 kts. From this point forward as wind velocity picks up and the mainsheet becomes ever more taut, the boom forces the two main frames down and fore-and-aft, which is possible due to the slack in the bimini created by the tensioners having been collapsed. Each subsequent action, consequently, re-tensions the bimini, so it's not flapping around in the wind. I've never experienced any problems in tensioning the main as much as wanted or needed.

J.B. Manley, Antares '85 FK/SR #4849
Grand Lake O' The Cherokees, NE Oklahoma

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Dave B
Admiral

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Mali
863 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2003 : 12:08:38

JB: I presume those "inner tensioners" are the small bows off the fore and aft main bows. Most designs simply have 3 bows, the middle one being rigged somewhat like your tensioners. So, you're arrangement "cheats" a little for headroom--a neat idea, but I'll have to size my bows according to the lowest position of the boom--yet to be precisely determined. Alternatively, I can go back to my $5 blue poly tarp over the boom! <img src=icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle>

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT

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kansasboatman
Deckhand

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17 Posts

Response Posted - 08/08/2003 : 00:19:20

I told a friend of mine....in Florida on gulf coast that I was installing a Bimini on my boat and he advised the following as he was leaving town for vacation..

"Be sure to use stainless steel screws and pre drill and chamfer the holes first that I ietend to drill....because this will keep the jell coat from splitting.....and alwasy uses 5200 under the fittings.

Whats all this about?

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 08/08/2003 : 11:09:00

""Be sure to use stainless steel screws and pre drill and chamfer the holes first because this will keep the jell coat from splitting.....and alwasy uses 5200 under the fittings.

Whats all this about?"

From the nature of your question, I'm assuming that you are new to boats...

1) Stainless steel won't rust and disintegrate in 2 weeks like regular plated screws.

2) Chamfering the hole (using an oversize bit to put a taper on the top of the hole) reduces the cracking and disruption of the gel coat (top coat of fiberglass)when putting a screw in.

3) 5200 is a marine adhesive/sealant made by 3M that keeps water out and helps the fittings stay put.

There are different types of sealant.. 5200 is really 'strong' and will really stay put. Downside is it's hard to get off if you want to remove the fitting later. 101 is another common type which seals very well but doesn't bond as tightly.

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

Edited by - on

Dave B
Admiral

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Mali
863 Posts

Response Posted - 08/08/2003 : 11:55:43

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
"Be sure to use stainless steel screws and pre drill and chamfer the holes first that I ietend to drill....because this will keep the jell coat from splitting.....and alwasy uses 5200 under the fittings.

Whats all this about?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Another purpose for chamfering is to allow some space around the screw or bolt for the sealant. 5200, a polyurethane sealer, is controversial for this application. It's a very strong adhesive, and a good through-bolt makes adhesion somewhat unnecessary. 5200 may very well cause damage to the gelcoat when you decide to remove or re-bed the hardware. There are a number of good polysulfide sealers that will seal as well and last as long as 5200, but that can be removed fairly easily down the road.

Another key to bedding is to hand-tighten the fasteners just until the caulk starts to squeeze out around the edges, and then stop. Clean up the excess, let the caulk set for the prescribed time (at least a day, maybe even a few), and then crank down the fasteners to compress the "gasket" formed by the caulk. Bolts are better than screws--not just for holding power, but also because you can tighten the nuts from below without breaking the bond of the caulk against the shaft. When you make the final turns of a screw, it can break that seal.

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT

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skipn809
Navigator

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111 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2003 : 15:35:31

Amen to DaveB's post. Go with the 101.

Skip 1985 C-25 T/R #5121 "Corporal Punishment" N.E. Mo.

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Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2003 : 15:49:38

I also use Dave's method of letting the sealant harden for a day until you tighten it down.

For chamfering a hole I use a countersink instead of an oversize bit. the oversize bit, if sharp, can drill too far into the hole.

Frank Gloss
89WK/TR

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Dave B
Admiral

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Mali
863 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2003 : 17:03:22

"Dave's method" for bedding isn't mine--I probably learned it here or on TSBB. I chamfer the hole with a 1/2" bit that I just turn by hand. No need for power for that. (Maybe that can go down as Dave's method.<img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>)

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT

Edited by - dave b on 08/09/2003 17:07:23

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2003 : 09:20:55

Sorry to be joinng this thread so late. I just returned from a 5 week cruise of lake Huron's North Channel and have after two seasons using the CD bimini, would make some modifications. I feel that the CD model is too wide for the C25. I am looking into ways to modify it to make it smaller. crawling over the cabin to access the foredeck is not always an easy thing to do. I would like to take 6 inches off the width and about 2 inches off the heighth. I'm not sure how to do that though. I made one modification using 7/8 in tubing in place of the aft straps, allows stowage of the bimini in the up position with its boot on. that makes it very easy to stow or open.

BTW this was a windy summer on the great lakes with many days of constant 10-20 kts without a lot of high wind days. We had one sail of 10 hours covering 60 miles.

John V.

John V. Nin Bimash II
77 C25 sk/sr #153

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Dave B
Admiral

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Mali
863 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2003 : 10:34:01

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
...I would like to take 6 inches off the width and about 2 inches off the heighth. I'm not sure how to do that though.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Thanks, John... Are you saying yours is currently mounted to the side-decks and you'd prefer it to be mounted on top of the coamings? Are you saying that would make it easier to step through to go forward?

I'm also planning to use the extra legs to prop it as you did, and am thinking that with the props, some sort of quick release for the forward straps could solve the "going forward" problem.

I expect to take delivery next week...

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT

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Ed Montague
Captain

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USA
499 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2003 : 14:03:10

I agree with John about making the Bimini about 6" narrower. Even with the mounting points on the coamings it is difficult to move forward along the sides. The lose of shade will be minimal and improved access to the bow is very important.

Ed Montague on 'Yahoo'
1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~

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skipn809
Navigator

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111 Posts

Response Posted - 08/25/2003 : 20:25:20

Hello Dave--

How did the bimini fit? I just got mine from GMI and hope to get it on the boat this week. I am still fabricating the track slides to mount it to. It looks like good quality, and a good design. I also liked the price.
Skip

Skip 1985 C-25 T/R #5121 "Corporal Punishment" N.E. Mo.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/25/2003 : 21:09:43

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Hello Dave--
How did the bimini fit?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
I don't know yet... I started putting the main bows together and found that the SS self-tapping screws didn't work really well in the SS tubing--especially when the holes weren't drilled quite right. I did some re-drilling, but still twisted the heads off two screws (out of six that were eventually driven. Otherwise, the quality seems good, but I expect to have to cut a few inches off the main bow after I check it out on the boat. Right now, spare time is at a premium, so it may become an after-season or Spring project--we'll see. I'll get back with the results--just don't anybody hold their breath! <img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle>

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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skipn809
Navigator

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111 Posts

Response Posted - 08/25/2003 : 22:56:39

I know what you mean. I had the same problem putting mine together in the living room tonight. I ended up redrilling the holes with a 1/8th bit to get the screws in without stripping the heads. For some reason, I also ended up with 2 extra bow to bow straps. We'll see if I can make it fit under this tall rig.

Skip 1985 C-25 T/R #5121 "Corporal Punishment" N.E. Mo.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2003 : 09:12:30

Interesting, Skip... I started to think about using the pop-rivets they also included, but I've never done it, don't have the tool, and didn't want to get one. I think I'll shoot an e-mail GMI about their little hole alignment problem--after I complete the assembly and see whether they were sloppy with anything else.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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