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what does a replacement rudder cost?

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77Gypsy
Captain

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USA
356 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/25/2003 : 16:25:27

i see some cracking on my rudder but so far it is only on the surface. actually a close inspection of it showed it was only the gel coat. if i have to replace it eventually, what is a ball-park fugure?

Steve
78 C25 SR/FK - Gypsy
<img src="http://www.websdf.com/logo_web.jpg" border=0>

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eric.werkowitz
Captain

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USA
283 Posts

Response Posted - 07/25/2003 : 16:57:30

Steve,

Catalina Direct's catalog says $443 plus crating and shipping. I built one for about $100-150.

By the way, they tend to break at the lower pintle. If the cracking you see is in this area, I'd beware. Also, if you have the old blade rudder the new balanced rudder will feel like power steering.

Eric Werkowitz
C25 #4969

Edited by - eric.werkowitz on 07/25/2003 17:00:37

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Bryan Beamer
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1038 Posts

Response Posted - 07/25/2003 : 21:01:11

Here is a post about a new balanced rudder from another thread.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>I ordered a rudder direct from the Catalina parts department. I dealt with a man named Elario Martinez. A really nice guy, and a credit to Catalina. He informed me that there are three rudder sizes for the 89 catalina. He had me make some measurements but alas something happened in the communications and I got a non balanced rudder sent to me. He paid for it to be shipped back to him. You gotta love Catalina. I then made a drawing of my current rudder and faxed it to him, I got a new rudder delivered in about 2 weeks. It cost about 450 to 500 bucks, I forget which. This included new heavy duty pintles, which make the old ones look really cheap.
I also bought the new heavy duty gudgeons from Catalina Direct. I drilled out the holes and used 5/16" machine bolts to attach them. Really bombproof.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

Bryan Beamer
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d935b3127cce8ab87c3b48020000000010" border=0>
Daylight Again
C250wk #495
2003 National Champion

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Dan86
Navigator

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130 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2003 : 22:22:15

I had a failure of my lower pintle in 30 to 35 mph headwinds, in a shallow bay with oyster reefs on either side of the narrow channel, with 4 to 5 ft waves. The bottom pintle popped out of the gudgeon and the lower part of the rudder was floating behind the boat. I finally got the pintle in the gudgeon and had to ride the next 1.5 hours with my hand putting near body weight on the top of the rudder in order to keep the pintle from slopping out of the gudgeon. After I got to where i could fix the problem, the lower pintle had two bolts through the rudder, with the leading bolt having cut out a pizza slice shaped triangle out of the rudder. I cored the rudder out with a big drill bit, filled with epoxy and high density filler, and applied 6 or 7 layers of fiberglass over the area to reinforce my repair. I also got a larger lower pintle bracket with 4 bolts (versus the two that was stock) and replace the gudgeons with the heavy duty catalina replacements. If this repair fails, I would not hesitate to follow the Tech Tips in the association home page from i think Brigadoon to make the new balanced rudder from the specs provided. I do not think I would wait until failure to either beef up the area, or build / replace. Dan 86

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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 07/27/2003 : 11:09:51

There has been lots of chat on this forum in the six years I've owned "Wood Duck" (2616) about the weaknesses of the OEM rudder, and the advantages of the "balanced" rudder.

When I purchased "Wood Duck", the stock rudder had a hairline crack all the way down the leading edge of the rudder. It still does, about 2500 miles and lots of 25 knot winds and choppy seas later. I check the rudder (and especially the gudgeons) every time I go out. It is part of my methodical "pre flight" check list.

As for the balanced rudder, I find that "Wood Duck" sails fine to windward with virtually no weather helm provided she is not over powered. My C25 is a fin keel sailboat with lots of above waterline volume and little wetted surface. Reef early and often. When she is healing at 25 degrees, it does not take much of a gust to have you fighting the tiller, and that puts lots of pressure on the blade of the rudder.

I used to feel like I was less of a sailor when I was the first one out there to reef. Not any more, not when a reefed "Wood Duck" can pass a thirty footer still carrying full sail and ploughing its lee rail under.

Not true on a broad reach (but watch out for 'broaching'), but upwind a reefed main and small jib are often faster. Last night I tacked back to my mooring in the upper harbor under 20-25 knot winds with gusts well over 30. It was slack tide, so I know the GPS was giving me a true reading at 6.9 knots! And "Wood Duck" lifted her forefoot and forged through the water, steady and with no fuss. Reefed main, small jib, no pulling on the tiller, no balanced rudder. No flogging the jib on tacks. Just peace and joy!

BTW, it is also (at least I have found so) virtually impossible to heave to in a blow with full main and 130 genny aloft. Reef the main, drop to a smaller jib or roller reef the genny, and she behaves like a dream when hove to.

Just one sailor's opinion.

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