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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Furler's on sale--need some advice

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Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/26/2003 : 17:52:04

Hi folks,
I'm still spending the proceeds of the sale of my 22.
Sailnet has the Schaeffer CF-700 Snapfurl (It is also called the Maxi furl) on sale for 790 including shipping. With Sailperks rebate it would come out to 758. I have a 30 coupon from my Tillerpilot purchase, so it would then be 728. Cheapest price I have found.

Questions:
1. Anybody out there use this new furler model? It is designed for boats up to 28 feet long.
2. I'll probably get a 135 for my first sail. I live in the Southeast where mildew is a problem. North Sails has a rope luff instead of a foam luff. They say it will be less prone to mildew, and last longer. Anybody can comment on those claims?
3. I want to run my lines along the pulpits using the Schaeffer leads with the rollers that mount directly on the stantion instead of bullseyes, which would have greater friction. Comments?
4. Where do you terminate the furling line so you don't trip on it. Do you use a cleat, or rope clutch, or clam cleat, or some other kind of cleat?
5. How about those rollers you mount on your mast to prevent halyard wrap? Is it necessary?
6. Someday I plan on sailing from Key West to the Tortugas, so I want a sail which could take some wind. Do I need a tri-radial? They do look really cool don't they? But do they work, and do they really last longer?
7. My rigging is original I think, so I'll probably get a new forestay. Do I need an additional toggle at the top? Can you add a quick release at the bottom, or do you have to stay with a turnbuckle.
8. Do you need the fairlead arm on the furler?

I want to do this job right, so any comments will be appreciated.
Thanks

Frank Gloss
89WK/TR

Edited by - on

Earl Landers
Navigator

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USA
157 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2003 : 20:26:11

Frank,
I can answer a few of your questions;
#3) I am using the Fairlead rollers that mount on the stanctions. They work well and get the furling line outboard and off the deck. They look funny 'cause they are built for larger line than the 1/4" I am using.

#4) I use a turning block on the forward sloping upright of the rear pulpit, from there the furling line terminates at the cleat that's aft of the port winch.

#5) On my Snapfurl, it is recommended, but it doesn't have any rollers. It is just a oversized eye strap. Also, it comes with the furler, which wasn't clear when I ordered mine.

#7) If the connections are the same as on the Snapfurl,
<img src="http://www.furling.com/popup/images/open_drum_220.jpg" border=0>, you can just see the bottom toggle on the turnbuckle in the above picture. If you are using a quick pin now, you should be able to continue using it.

#8) Using Schaefer's fairlead arm saves you from having to mount a block to the deck of your boat. The furling lead is supposed to enter the drum at a 90 degree angle, which it won't if your last fairlead is on the forward most stanction.

I was tempted to get the CF700, but the CF500 was quite a bit cheaper and the only appearent difference is Aluminum vrs Nylon drum/torque tube. Either model was going to be a hugh improvement over my old furler (CDI Reffer II with no bearings), so I bought the CF500.

Happy sailing

Earl Landers
'83 C25 SR/SK
"Gentle Spirit"
http://home.bak.rr.com/edlgs

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2003 : 21:28:43

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>...I want to run my lines along the pulpits using the Schaeffer leads with the rollers that mount directly on the stantion instead of bullseyes, which would have greater friction...Where do you terminate the furling line so you don't trip on it. Do you use a cleat, or rope clutch, or clam cleat, or some other kind of cleat?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

I don't have the Schaefer clear step furling blocks, but I haven't noticed any great friction with the bulls-eye fairleads when furling the headsail.

To cleat the furling line, I use a Johnson Marine Add-A-Cleat that is mounted about a foot above the last stanchion mounted bulls-eye fairlead. I mounted the cleat so it faces aft to prevent it from becoming a knee knocker. In operation, the furling line exits the last bulls-eye fairlead, goes straight up the stanchion to the cleat, and is then cleated off. The excess furling line is then coiled and hung from the same cleat.

Johnson Marine Add-A-Cleat
<img src="http://www.boatus-store.com/images/thumb/124026.jpg" border=0>

The length of my furling line is such that when the sail is unfurled only about 3 or 4 inches of line hang from the last bulls-eye fairlead. The line ends with a stopper knot.

<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>Don Lucier<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d904b3127cce9f7cd9ffdf1d0000003010" border=0>
North Star SR/FK

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