Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
As OJ said it depends on several variables, and you should see the recommendations of the paint manufacturer. I used about a gallon of Interlux microm extra with biocide the last time I painted and haven't painted for three years. Have some pretty serious touch up to do this year.
My fin keel takes a gallon for two coats. I repaint every Spring and use Interlux ACT. Not the most expensive, but it works fine for my area, there is no paint buildup, and with my boat moored in a one knot current, it keeps the hull spotless.
I've been using West CPP, an ablative made by Interlux--a gallon does our fin with about a quart left over. I add a little thinner midway through the job. It's kept us very clean in pretty high fouling conditions.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
I use VC17M Extra w/Biolux and it is very effective for my area(Great Lakes). The hull stays clean and slick for the entire season and the spring prep before recoating consists of simply washing the bottom. Most racers in my area use this paint for it's performance(speed) qualities.
On my last boat I used Pettit ACP-50, an ablative paint, that allowed me to haul the boat without having to recoat it.
The ICW in the SE is really nutrient rich, which translates to lots of food for thingies that like to grow on boat bottoms (not to mention warm water). (I live in Hilton Head, SC). So down here they recommend Trinidad SR because is has the highest copper content. (SR = slime reduction). I put on two plus coats with 2 1/2 gallons, so maybe I was putting it on thick ?? Stuff still accumulates on my boat pretty quickly, but I should go out more often (Once or twice a month isn't enough). Caribbean eh?? There have been a few threads here about the blue water (in)ability of the C25. <b><i><u>I</b></i></u> wouldn't do it.
1) If you trailer or store on the hard. You need a paint with 'dry storage' capability or face repainting after xx days out of the water.
2) If you're into racing You need a 'fast' hard racing finish (usually lower anti-fouling)
3) If you don't want to face sanding/blasting every 3rd or 4th bottom job you want an ablative.
4) Long term immersion in high-fouling waters calls for an extremely high copper content (like the aforementioned Trinidad) These paints are generally soft and are considered a 'slow' finish.
5) You must choose a paint compatible with the existing bottom or strip/prep the bottom accordingly.
The rest of it is personal preference, cost etc.
Personally, I've had good luck with the CSC Micron family. (Trailerable ablative). My choice was based on trailerablility, ease of maintenance and generally good performance.
Tip.. if you have black trailer rollers, use black bottom paint.
Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family, '78 Catalina 25
In Florida SW, a nutrient soup if ever there was one, local boaters use Trinidad SR (which has been consistently rated good by Practical Sailor) or an ablative, the boat yards often use Sea Hawk, which is good stuff, but maybe they get a deal on it, ron srsk #2343 Orion
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I have always heard that the darker the paint the faster the growth, just bbasic solar gain, warmer water means better soup. At our lake it only affects the first few inches but it would be interesting to hear from someone with clear water.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.