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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 Mast gates a day too late
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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/04/2003 :  13:57:19  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Antares</i>
<br />Wow, looks like I missed the on-line party last night.

Also, recommendations for filling screw holes in aluminum spars would be helpful
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Put screws back in.

Dude you are tweaking over this single line reef thing. I had no idea the rotational effect on the boom was such an issue. It sounds like the thing to do is use the single line when you are caught with your pants down and live with the boom twist. When you are reefing under controlled conditions use fittings that are exclusively located on the boom. I have the standard reef rig. Pad eye for bitter end on port side of boom slightly behind reef clew, line passes up through the reef clew and down to a cheek block on the starboard side.. The line goes forward through a couple pad eyes to a cleat on the boom. All contained on the boom creating no twist. I use a reef hook on the reef tack and belay it to a cleat on the mast. This does not add twist, the tack cringle is not connected to the boom. I have ordered a reef hook that bolts on the goose neck. You simply hook the reef tack over the reef hook on the gooseneck and haul the halyard back up. This system is also boom contained, adding no twist. <font color="red">EDIT; The more I think about this it will add twist because the gooseneck mounted hook on the starboard side will be lifted by te effect of the main halyard. Maybe the reef hook with a line belayed to the mast cleat is the better non twist solution. Wow, why did you get me thinking about this!</font id="red">

OK, I am also making my system single line reefable. All I am doing is using a longer line for the line currently in place that controls the reef clew. I am adding a cheek block under the reef tack on the boom. I am using a reef hook with a swivel block. The line will go up from the forward cheek to the reef hook block and back down to the halyard plate under the tabernacle, turn and yada yada yada. I am leaving the original reef clew/outhaul cleat at the front of the boom. I will be able to set a reef at the dock using the original boom cleat and the gooseneck hook. It will be clean and self contained. I will only use the single line when I am caught with my pants down. (Something you never want to see)

My boom is on my living room floor awaiting cheek blocks from Garhauer.

Edited by - Frank Hopper on 11/04/2003 14:06:27
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frich
Captain

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USA
418 Posts

Response Posted - 11/04/2003 :  14:06:11  Show Profile  Visit frich's Homepage
Thanks I understand fully

Frank R

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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 11/04/2003 :  14:44:03  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i>
<br />Put screws back in.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I was looking for something with, what should we say, more integrity. In the boom, I mean.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Dude you are tweaking over this single line reef thing.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Yeah, it's a definite character flaw.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Wow, why did you get me thinking about this!<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
In order to possibly save someone's rig, boat or life; most especially mine. There are, no doubt, easier solutions (e.g., never sail when there might be big wind, never go out in big wind, never singlehand, never go offshore, never buy a bigger boat, etc.).

Seriously though, trying to rig for safe singlehanding introduces complexities. My personal safety factor goes down exponentially, especially on our relatively narrow beamed and tender boats, every time I have to leave the cockpit. However, I firmly believe that the boat can, and should, be rigged to safely remain in the cockpit and yet be able to sail in all but the absolutely worst conditions. What if the wind had surprised me and ratcheted up to near 35? 40? 45? Ever notice how the bow blows off even under power when the wind really kicks up? What happens in the future when I'm finally sailing my dream Shannon 38 and get caught on the edge of a tropical storm? Personally, I consider this to be my preliminary proving ground.

Ergo, the challenge, and the fun.

Edited by - Sea Trac on 11/04/2003 14:45:09
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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/04/2003 :  14:54:38  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Antares</i>
<br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i>
<br />Put screws back in.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I was looking for something with, what should we say, more integrity. In the boom, I mean.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I don't think there is anyway to provide more integrity than a perfectly fitting plug that is stronger than the material it is plugging. Just file the screw point down if you are worried about them snagging an internal line.

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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 11/04/2003 :  18:45:19  Show Profile
Sorry, Frank, I thought you were being flip.

Your suggestion would actually work pretty well, since it would keep me from having to drill out all those I've already broken off.

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Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2030 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2003 :  00:06:29  Show Profile  Visit Oscar's Homepage
Happy birthday Dave....

Oscar
250WB#618 Lady Kay on the Chesapeake

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tmhansen
Captain

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USA
397 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2003 :  01:14:07  Show Profile  Visit tmhansen's Homepage
Matt don't you trailer sail your boat? How do you use the mast gates? Or should I say, how do you remove your main sail to trailer your boat? I like the idea but I drysail my boat and don't see how to easliy remove the main sail with the slot closed.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2003 :  09:49:37  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tmhansen</i>
<br />Matt don't you trailer sail your boat? How do you use the mast gates? Or should I say, how do you remove your main sail to trailer your boat? I like the idea but I drysail my boat and don't see how to easliy remove the main sail with the slot closed.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Why would you remove your main if you drysail? To me that means you use a storage yard and leave your mast up. Drysailing is most bearable if you leave the boat rigged and the main on the boom.
For trailering I simply remove mine and lift the boom with the sail still on it off the mast. (DON'T DROP THEM IN THE WATER!) I stow the boom in the boat. Mast gates are held on by four short phillipshead screws and are almost as easy to work with as a sail stop. When the boom is off I take the gates and screws out of my pocket and put them back on the mast. Some people store them where ever they are putting the forward shroud and headstay turnbuckles.

Edited by - Frank Hopper on 11/05/2003 09:53:41
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