Association Forum - Bottom paint

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Bottom paint

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

Member Avatar

Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/12/2003 : 09:55:24

OK, again, I have just returned to this avocation after over 10 years away. When I bailed VC-17 had been around a couple of years and turned a copper color as it wore, I was using stuff that had already been declared illegal but was in inventory at my local dealer. It seems a lot of development has occurred while I have been away. VC-17 comes in colors and is still considered the racer's edge, however it is not recommended for Zebra muscles. Why do I give a rats about zebra muscles? Even if they do show up in my lake why would they be on my boat? We lake people fight slime not critters. Anyway, my dealer has VC-17 in stock but is giving me a lot of push-back. He says that:
1. I can’t afford the barrier coat job that would be smooth enough for VC-17. His point is that it must be sanded in stages as the coats are applied and it requires more coats. Material and labor = bad. (We are using Interlux 2000.)
2. If I go with his favorite Woolsey Hydrocoat ablative I will get 3-4 years between repainting vs. 1-2 with VC.
3. The Woolsey will cover any roughness/orange peel in the barrier coat.
4. The ablative is as easy to maintain as the VC because it is ablative and a simple scrub is all it needs before you reapply at the end of its life. (No need to sand.)
5. The Woolsey is easy to wet sand during the year and yields a fast bottom. (We lake people fight slime and all paints end up needing scrubbing a couple of time a year, so we “scrub” with 400 grit.)
6. The Woolsey is happy on a trailer.

So, since I cannot afford anything more that the least expense possible am I going Woolsey? I have read all the threads about the “great barrier coat rip off”, but hey, I am using Interlux 2000 and the local dealer to apply it, that is immutable. I guess the option I see is me getting the boat back with a less than perfect finish on the barrier coat and then my sanding it myself and applying VC myself. However if that were ok then my dealer would not insist that the barrier coat needs to be sanded in stages as it is applied. You know it is much easier to have your act together with computer issues than boat issues.
Hit me, what would you do?

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2003 : 10:38:37

Frank,

I use VC15M Extra(new this year) in a zebra mussel environment and I have had absolutely no mussels at all on my boat. The sailboat that was right next to me at the marina used an ablative antifouling and in the spots where the paint got too thin, zebra mussels attached by the hundreds.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">1. I can’t afford the barrier coat job that would be smooth enough for VC-17. His point is that it must be sanded in stages as the coats are applied and it requires more coats.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

VC-Tar2, the recommended barrier coat/primer for VC-17M, is self leveling and doesn't require sanding.

From the Interlux (Yachtpaint) website...

VC®Tar2 is a 2-component epoxy primer providing osmosis protection to GRP boats and anticorrosive protection to steel and alloy surfaces. For use below water only, key product features include:-

Self-leveling to give an excellent finish

Easy to apply and overcoatable within hours

No sanding required between coats

Offers excellent barrier to water for osmosis protection and treatment

Ideal primer base for VC 17m antifouling

For more information, click on the link to [url="http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/"]Yacht Paint(Interlux)[/url]

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">4. The ablative is as easy to maintain as the VC because it is ablative and a simple scrub is all it needs before you reapply at the end of its life. (No need to sand.)<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I've had both ablative and VC-17, and the VC-17 is without question easier to maintain. Additionally, VC-17 provides a slick surface for those performance minded sailors.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">5. The Woolsey is easy to wet sand during the year and yields a fast bottom. (We lake people fight slime and all paints end up needing scrubbing a couple of time a year, so we “scrub” with 400 grit.)<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The new VC17m Extra has a slime retardant, Biolux, that helps fight slime.

When my boat was hauled out in October it was surprisingly slime free and after the washdown was absolutely clean. A few times per season, I wipe down the scum line with a scrubby backed sponge(no 400 grit sanding) and it wipes cleans with very little effort. All that I need to do in the spring is wash the hull and apply another coat of VC-17m. It doesn't get easier than that.

Edited by - dlucier on 11/12/2003 10:39:05

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2003 : 11:59:59

Thanks, I printed your response and will take it with me when I to talk to him later today.

Edited by - on

svmoxie
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

USA
331 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2003 : 12:59:58

Frank,

just a little word of caution... you do NOT want to try to sand 2000 barrier coat smooth after it has dried. I rolled and tipped mine and it came out pretty good but I don't know if pretty good is good enough for your plans. Sounds like the VC Tar with the VC 17m Extra is your best bet.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2003 : 17:41:17

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by svmoxie
 Frank,

just a little word of caution... you do NOT want to try to sand 2000 barrier coat smooth after it has dried. I rolled and tipped mine and it came out pretty good but I don't know if pretty good is good enough for your plans. Sounds like the VC Tar with the VC 17m Extra is your best bet.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Just got back from the dealer's and he and his son, (the guy who does all the work) said the tar is just that, tar, and is very difficult to work with and when you ultimately need to do some maintenance on it, it is a nightmare. I guess one point of wisdom is go with what the guy you hired knows how to do. So it is 2000 and Woolsey Hydrocoat. It will be the second half of the season before it is a fast bottom, maybe that is good, I need an excuse..

Edited by - on

Mark Loyacano
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2003 : 19:36:58

I've been very satisfied with Woolsey Hydrocoat over the last few years on two different boats. It is offered in blue or black. I've tried both and prefer black.
We do not have zebra muscles in our lake yet. They are in a lake nearby ... won't be too long before they show up at Cheney.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2003 : 22:57:35

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Just got back from the dealer's and he and his son, (the guy who does all the work) said the tar is just that, tar, and is very difficult to work with and when you ultimately need to do some maintenance on it, it is a nightmare.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I believe the tar in VC-Tar is in reference to its black color and its water repellent properties.

As for your dealer telling you the product is like "tar" and being difficult to work with...well that's a bunch of HOOOOEY!

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2003 : 23:06:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mark Loyacano
 We do not have zebra muscles in our lake yet. They are in a lake nearby ... won't be too long before they show up at Cheney.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yep, we have them at Grand and Keystone here in Oklahoma already. Speculation is that ocean going vessels transported to the lakes brought them along for the ride. However, my boat, which is in SERIOUS need of a bottom job, hasn't had any attached. Haven't heard about any other boats at the lake being effected yet, either.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.