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Companion way cover boards?

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FrankM
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/15/2003 : 11:07:31

Can Someone give me an idea on this. I was given a fixer upper by my Fat Boss years ago, and with the purchase of a motor within a few weeks, I'll have her near ready.Anyway, It had an old scratched up piece of scratched up plexiglass in the Companion way. So one day I took it to the Boat shop where I work part time, and I mirror glazed it all up really nice. So, my Fat Boss came aling and said, "what the hell is that", and I said it was my hatch, and he said,"that's stupid,
Only an Idiot would have a big heavy piece of plexiglass in the hatchway, what happens when you're out on the open ocean ,blah blah blah....And I thought,"SO, I really want three pieces of rabbited teak plywood to mess with?" Now he claims He made the plexiglass cover, but only for the dock, Any thoughts? FM

Edited by - on

lcharlot
Master Marine Consultant

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Antigua and Barbuda
1301 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2003 : 11:20:03

The potential problems with plexiglass are that it weakens over time from UV exposure. Just look at the running light lenses on an older boat; if they are original Aqua-Signal Series 25's, the lenses will be severely crazed and losing transparency. Plexiglass cabin windows and hatch boards will do the same. There are a few grades of Lexan available that have UV stabilizer added to the plastic when it is manufactured, but I think these are all the dark-tinted colors. Clear acrylic will degrade in a few years if exposed to full sunlight year-round. UV exposure makes the plastic brittle, to where a relatively minor impact will break it. If you were to make new hatch boards and wanted to use plastic instead of wood, I recommend buying the "Solar" grade of polycarbonate (Lexan) even though it costs a little more, it will last a lot longer on a boat.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2003 : 11:54:11

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by FrankM
 ...I really want three pieces of rabbited teak plywood to mess with?"
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Certainly not plywood! Hatch boards should be solid wood with vertical end-pieces to prevent end-grain water intrusion, warping and splitting. Now, do you sail where you might get caught in following seas that could poop your cockpit and crash into the companionway? If so, I'd suggest teak hatchboards and a different boat.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5904 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2003 : 13:43:44

It all depends on how you use the boat. If you're going offshore, you should have hatchboards along the lines of what Dave described. I made a set of plywood hatchboards to use temporarily whenever I refinish my teak hatchboards, and they aren't difficult to make, even if you rabbet them. I don't know how long marine plywood hatchboards would last, but solid teak is customarily used, and teak looks beautiful.

It was nice of your Fat Boss to give you a boat, but there will never be a place for him in the diplomatic service of his country.

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2003 : 15:13:18

Personally, If you want to save a few dollars, I think 3/4" epoxy-saturated plywood should be strong enough and last a long time. (Teak is the best, but around here it is big $$$)

If you're in a situation to take breaking waves in a C25, odds are something else is going to give up too. (hatches, cabin sides, pop top, windows etc.) Also, our cockpit drains are way too small to effectively drain a filled cockpit. If you got pooped, I think you'd be in real trouble.

A C25 simply isn't designed to take those conditions... which makes it a "Coastal Cruiser" at best. I would make a lot of improvements to the boat before I'd try anything more.

All rigging 1 size up.
Stays and chainplates reinforced with oversize backings
2" Cockpit drains.
Fiberglass the pop top to the coachroof.
Strengthen all hatches and fittings, especially the anchor locker
Go up 1 size on rudder gudgeons.
Liferaft and EPIRB !

Edited by - on

timpky
1st Mate

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USA
41 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2003 : 16:47:24

Hmmmmmmmmmm. The new Catalina 250 comes with a single piece companionway hatchboard made from Starboard. I don't think they are idiots ??

Edited by - on

Mark Loyacano
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2003 : 18:57:21

Frank, two seasons ago I bought new teak hatchboards from Catalina Direct. We "dolled" them up with Cetol Light.
They are pricey but last well and continue to look good, no warpin ... worth the dough.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2003 : 19:52:02

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by timpky
 Hmmmmmmmmmm. The new Catalina 250 comes with a single piece companionway hatchboard made from Starboard. I don't think they are idiots ??
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
They're not... Like I said, if you suspect you might be in those conditions, you need a different boat. Exclamation point. Otherwise, plastic hatchboards are just fine.

Edited by - on

77Gypsy
Captain

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USA
356 Posts

Response Posted - 11/16/2003 : 19:13:19

I think the idea of plexiglass is ok. I have owned 2 hunter 23's and both had plexiglass companion way hatch covers. I have never had a problem. the second hunter had a cracked one when i bought it and some rain was getting into the cabin. I replaced it with a piece of 1/2 inch plexi and it was great.

I also sailed on an 8 day course on a 41 foot Benateau and the companion way boards and hatch cover were plexiglass.

I would assume that if you have plexiglass boards, and you slide the hatch completley aft, even in a knock down the hatch cover will hold them in place. You can even go so far as mounting a hitch of somekind to be able to lock the cabin completely.

Edited by - on

John Mason
Admiral

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USA
687 Posts

Response Posted - 11/17/2003 : 18:47:09

Just one - get a new boss!

Edited by - on

deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 11/18/2003 : 12:30:35

Hey guys, let's get serious! A C25 in a knockdown? You're dead! The poptop roof ends on the bottom, and seconds thereafter, so do you. I've been out in six foot seas and thirty-five knot winds and survived, but it is not something the C25 is designed for, nor something I find pleasurable. So I don't mind the idea of a plexiglass hatch, at least one quarter inch thick, and preferably smoked. It keeps the cabin light, and helps reduce mold and mildew below decks, especially if it has a vent mounted in it.

Edited by - on

FrankM
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2003 : 21:07:50

Well actually, my boat is not a C25, it's a Doug Peterson 1/4 ton IOR, built in a boatyard owned and operated by Doug peterson in 1974, so I'm hoping it will be a real performer.
FM

Edited by - on

deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2003 : 22:35:11

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Well actually, my boat is not a C25, it's a Doug Peterson 1/4 ton IOR, built in a boatyard owned and operated by Doug peterson in 1974, so I'm hoping it will be a real performer.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Got that! Missed it originally. Your boat is, I assume, a traditional full-keeler. Sounds like a real pretty boat. If it was designed to IOR rules, then it prob has a full-length keel, and long overhangs bow and stern, which will give it great directional stability and the ability cut through the waves rather than bounce along on top of them (which is what most broad-beamed fin keelers tend to do). In which case I would stay with the solid teak boards, and put latches on them if you think you are headed out beyond the immediate coast line. You will prob have to laminate the teak campanionway boards to get the necessary width and strength if you decide to make them yourself.

Good luck!

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2003 : 07:53:46

I need new hatchboards and have been wondering what to do. Yesterday I was raking leaves and noticed my teak furniture on the patio. It occurred to me that Sam's Club often has cheap teak furniture that is made out of strips of teak. I am considering cannibelizing a bench.

Edited by - on

deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 11/22/2003 : 12:46:37

There are several concerns about teak, especially for those of us who sail because, among othere things, it brings us back closer to nature and the ocean we all came from a few million years ago.

1) Its provenance. I really believe we all need to be attentive to where our lumber comes from (ie. the Rain Forest or plantations). This is especially true of teak, mahogany and other tropical woods (such as ipe, for example). I would assume that Walmart and Home Depot teak are not closely vetted for provenance.

2) There is teak and teak. Like any wood, there is coarse grain, center grain, edge grain etc. etc. For teak to be used in a finish application you need a relatively slow growth, compact grain wood.

3) Its use. Hatch boards and companionway boards will cup and check if made of a single piece of teak (yes, even teak). They need to be build up in laminates, with attention paid to the direction of the grain on multiple layers. That is crucial. Teak is very strong, but the glueing process will give you something even stronger that will resist cupping and checking.

4) Thickness. My companionway boards, original to my '81, are 3/4" think. I would prefer 1", which would fit the slides better and give them gater solidity.

On the other hand, for my use and this boat, I like the idea of plaxiglas, at least for the top board, and may move in that direction next year.

PS. I always solo with the bottom board in place.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/22/2003 : 13:26:23

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by deastburn
 I always solo with the bottom board in place.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Good advise Admiral!

Edited by - Frank Hopper on 11/22/2003 13:27:04

FrankM
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 11/22/2003 : 22:10:43

The boss is a bit of a Jerk, and we've been going at it for about 20 years now, but he did give me the boat, probably because of the back storage fees, and he's probably too wide for the companion way. But,
the boat keeps me off the streets, and penniless so I don't squander my money. In a week I will have a beautiful 2000 Honda 9.9 long shaft
I'm getting for $1100.00, and I just got all of my new Garhauer cheek blocks and sail track, which will complete all of my deck rigging.
I would have installed it today,were it not for the unseasonably cold weather,and the fact that I have to keep borrowing other guys wives to hold screwdrivers while I tighten bolts. FM

Edited by - on

At Ease
Admiral

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672 Posts

Response Posted - 11/25/2003 : 16:16:06

Some of the newer and larger Catalinas come with both teak hatch boards and hinged plexiglass (normally an option). I just looked at a C 320 and was told the plexiglass is primarily used when in the slip, at anchor or when sailing in light winds. For serious sailing, it's back to the hatch boards.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/25/2003 : 16:47:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by FrankM
 "my Fat Boss" "The boss is a bit of a Jerk" <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I wasn't aware you worked for me.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 11/28/2003 : 11:48:47

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by FrankM
 "my Fat Boss" "The boss is a bit of a Jerk" <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I wasn't aware you worked for me.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

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captck
1st Mate

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USA
34 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2003 : 23:24:41

Hey
try using walnut for hatchboards. Sailing ships were built along the Ohio river back in the old days using walnut and oak. a little stain and walnut looks as good as teak. I had some for about 12 years on a boat and then sold it. they held up great.
Capt K

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2003 : 00:44:56

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by captck
 Hey try using walnut for hatchboards. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

OOOO I like Walnut, urathane or oil?

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 12/06/2003 : 16:18:54

I thought I would send you a picture of my hatch board solution.
I'm having difficulty including the picture so I'll try another post.

Edited by - John V. on 12/14/2003 22:34:37

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5904 Posts

Response Posted - 12/14/2003 : 21:37:08

John, I recently went to a builder's supply store and asked about Gorilla Glue for a wood repair I was doing, and, although they stocked it, the employee was very emphatic about his belief that it is not a very good glue. Elsewhere, I have heard very good opinions about Gorilla Glue. What is your experience with it?

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 12/14/2003 : 21:54:51

Hi Steve,

Gorilla glue is a polyurethane glue that in my experience will hold just about anything. The first time I built my hatch doors I cut multi angle shiplap joints and glued them using epoxy. The joints were not very water resistant and the epoxy would not hold by the end of the sailing season the doors were falling apart.

The new set was built with gorilla glue and they have held very well.

I also made a little brace for one of my battery boxes. It was a simple butt jointed l shaped bracket in 3/4 ply it sat in the locker all summer in the damp, in fact it was soaked and the joint is still firm and solid. The glue works best when the joint is wetted first. When clamped the glue expands into the wood pores and holds remarkably well.

Edited by - on

John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 12/14/2003 : 22:40:59

OK let me try again

the hatch folds down the center and stows in the galley

Edited by - John V. on 12/15/2003 21:38:12

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