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 Prep work for bottom paint		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts
Initially Posted - 01/17/2002 :  12:58:00  Show Profile  Visit Douglas's Homepage
I heading out today to pick up an orbital sander and a shop vacume. Ill be sanding the bottom down in preperation for a barrier coat (epoxie) and then a coat of anti fouling paint. Do you have any recomendations on the barrier coat? Do you have any ideas
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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts
Response Posted - 01/17/2002 :  15:08:29  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
Tasks to consider while hauled out (in addition to those you listed):

Thru-hulls -- if you have an early C-25 hull, remember to take a look at the cockpit scuppers too.

Bronze flanged seacocks with backing blocks -- for those new bronze thu-hulls.
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Steve
1st Mate

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USA
87 Posts
Response Posted - 01/17/2002 :  18:17:31  Show Profile
Douglas,

What sort of knot meter system are you putting in? When I first started sailing, I had one of those tubes that you stuck in the water with little red balls. Three balls floating meant 3 knots, etc. Then, my next boat had a knot meter with a l
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John Mason
Admiral

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USA
687 Posts
Response Posted - 01/17/2002 :  20:03:49  Show Profile
Doug,
I like West System epoxies. Easy to use. For barrier coating, I found on their website that there's an additive that makes the epoxy more moisture resistant. And I thought just using epoxy was good enough.

422 Barrier Coat Additive
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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts
Response Posted - 01/17/2002 :  22:08:47  Show Profile  Visit Douglas's Homepage
The knot metter will give you speed through the water and the GPS will only give you speed over the groung. With currents as they are here You should use both.
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n/a
deleted

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163 Posts
Response Posted - 01/18/2002 :  08:33:43  Show Profile
The knot meter gives you quick feedback on what's happening with sail trimming efforts: the GPS won't. If you race at all a knot meter is a must. The major problem with most paddlewheel knot meters is slime growth on the wheel; you can either get real goo
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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts
Response Posted - 01/18/2002 :  11:27:24  Show Profile
Hello Doug,
I've been where you're headed so here's some hindsight.
(1) When sanding, you will be able to identify almost all of the blisters because the paint will come off the tops of the blisters first. I would open up the blisters at that point - a
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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts
Response Posted - 01/18/2002 :  16:56:24  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
Adding to what Steve Madsen said about fairing in blister repair patches. I've had the same problem that a power sander leaves a slight flat or even concave spot in the fairing putty. What I ended up doing, was to make and use a longboard.

I cut a
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Jeff
1st Mate

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37 Posts
Response Posted - 01/19/2002 :  03:51:20  Show Profile
Carpet tape (which is sticky on both sides) is another way to mount sandpaper to long boards or to orbital sanders with weak spring clamps. It's cheap and available at any decent hardware store.
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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts
Response Posted - 01/19/2002 :  10:32:24  Show Profile  Visit Douglas's Homepage
Well Im all set. I picked up a dual handle 5" Makita orbital and a 5 hp. shop vac to attach to the sander. As soon as it stops raining Ill be on the job. I do know about making a long board for fairing and thanks for the advise on materials to use. Ill ta
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.