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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 Bottom Paint---VC17
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MattL
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2003 :  16:04:23  Show Profile
OK I went and looked at both VC17 and Trilux 33 on the internet. It says that time after painting is indefinet for VC 17. This makes me think that it is OK to use over the winter. Trilux 33 they say is for aluminum hulls and that it can be used over the winter out of the water also, and before relaunching you should power wash it to bring the effectivness back up. West marine had the price at about $160.

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5909 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2003 :  20:11:44  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Trilux 33 they say is for aluminum hulls....<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Trilux 33 was specifically designed for aluminum hulls, but it is also used on fiberglass hulls. It is a hard finish teflon paint, and those qualities make it very good for racing. The predecessors to Trilux 33 are Trilux II and Trilux, which I have used for several years. They were also hard finish paints, and were very fast, but they didn't contain Biolux or teflon, so they had to be scrubbed reqularly to keep them fast.

When I painted my bottom last year, I would probably have used VC17 if it contained Biolux at that time, but my dealer said it did not, and at our lake, we need a paint that resists algae. Trilux 33 filled the bill very well. As I said earlier, I don't think it's quite as fast as VC17, but not by much. Next year, it will still be very competitive with the boats that are using VC17.

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glstout
Deckhand

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USA
23 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2003 :  15:40:25  Show Profile
One of the best things about VC17 is the prep after the initial application, actually the lack of time and effort. Just read the directions on the can and follow; clean the bottom at haul out, give it a once over to remove any loose accumulation prior to next season and apply one coat with a short nap roller. It's the most effective bottom paint we've ever used.

Gordon Stout "O My Nee" C250WK #538

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2003 :  17:52:36  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">One of the best things about VC17 is the prep after the initial application, actually the lack of time and effort. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I can't decide what it is I like best about VC-17, the slick slippery bottom or the ease of application.

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Robert
1st Mate

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USA
75 Posts

Response Posted - 11/28/2003 :  12:18:38  Show Profile
Has anyone come up with a safe way to bottom paint a C250WB while it is on the trailer? How do you get around the trailer bunks? How do you paint the centerboard without removing it? Do you have to use a barrier coat with VC17 if your boat has a few seasons in the water without one?

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Bryan Beamer
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1038 Posts

Response Posted - 11/28/2003 :  13:27:54  Show Profile
Robert,

Here is a link to the c250 forum. Arlyn talks about painting the bottom while on the trailer.

http://www.catalina25-250.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5106

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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2003 :  18:06:20  Show Profile
Gary: Don't worry about removing your two coats of ablative copolymer paint. A good power washer will take it all off in minutes. That is both the problem and the delight of ACP paints: no build-up, and no build-up. Most racers around here (salt water) use a "hard" bottom paint for performance, and pay to have the bottom cleaned a couple times a season by kids with scuba gear.

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