Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
OK I went and looked at both VC17 and Trilux 33 on the internet. It says that time after painting is indefinet for VC 17. This makes me think that it is OK to use over the winter. Trilux 33 they say is for aluminum hulls and that it can be used over the winter out of the water also, and before relaunching you should power wash it to bring the effectivness back up. West marine had the price at about $160.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Trilux 33 they say is for aluminum hulls....<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Trilux 33 was specifically designed for aluminum hulls, but it is also used on fiberglass hulls. It is a hard finish teflon paint, and those qualities make it very good for racing. The predecessors to Trilux 33 are Trilux II and Trilux, which I have used for several years. They were also hard finish paints, and were very fast, but they didn't contain Biolux or teflon, so they had to be scrubbed reqularly to keep them fast.
When I painted my bottom last year, I would probably have used VC17 if it contained Biolux at that time, but my dealer said it did not, and at our lake, we need a paint that resists algae. Trilux 33 filled the bill very well. As I said earlier, I don't think it's quite as fast as VC17, but not by much. Next year, it will still be very competitive with the boats that are using VC17.
One of the best things about VC17 is the prep after the initial application, actually the lack of time and effort. Just read the directions on the can and follow; clean the bottom at haul out, give it a once over to remove any loose accumulation prior to next season and apply one coat with a short nap roller. It's the most effective bottom paint we've ever used.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">One of the best things about VC17 is the prep after the initial application, actually the lack of time and effort. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I can't decide what it is I like best about VC-17, the slick slippery bottom or the ease of application.
Has anyone come up with a safe way to bottom paint a C250WB while it is on the trailer? How do you get around the trailer bunks? How do you paint the centerboard without removing it? Do you have to use a barrier coat with VC17 if your boat has a few seasons in the water without one?
Gary: Don't worry about removing your two coats of ablative copolymer paint. A good power washer will take it all off in minutes. That is both the problem and the delight of ACP paints: no build-up, and no build-up. Most racers around here (salt water) use a "hard" bottom paint for performance, and pay to have the bottom cleaned a couple times a season by kids with scuba gear.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.