Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Now that Papas' Boat is on the hard for a few months I thought I would share some of the many extras and add-ons. A good majority of these are from the many tech tips, thanks to all. Details available.
this is the Edson steering with compass, ss radio, cell phone, clip on nav pod with mounted clinometer, and GPS. Note life net that surrounds deck from port to starboard.
one of the many interior add-ons-one of the shore power outlets, the other is in the head, and the stereo.
this one has saved me on many ocassions from a wet mattress. note the steering cables and the inverter/charger switch panel on the bulkhead.
Many other add-ons, to numerous to post at one time. Anchor holder pulpit mount, shore power/battery charger, pedestal steering w/motor controls, full cockpit bimini, bar-b-que, fresh water diverter line for pump out, interior cabin fans, curtains, blaster pump in fuel locker etc. I even have way to many drink holders.
Only 15 more weeks and I can get back into the water.
Thanks for asking. I would like to put on the coaming winches that Arlyn has done, and the major job will be welding the steering plate to the rudder head so I can use the beaching rudder again. When dealer installed the steering he bolted thru the rudder headand thru the rudder.
See tech tips on my mod to keep the water out of the aft berth.....indeed welding should work, and be a great improvement. You can fill the holes in the rudder with epoxy.....it's a shame the installer did it that way...
Jay, I would not consider welding the pedestal steering bracket to the kickup plate. The bracket is forged aluminum while the kickup plate is tinsiled aluminum. Basically to dissimilar metals such a temper steal vs pot metal. They are not compatable for heliarch/aluminum welding because they melt at two different temperatures. The bolts look like 1/4", and the kickup plate is around 1/8" thick, so I would get three 1/4" tappered headed stainless bolts, flat washers and nylock nuts, counter sink from the inside of the kickup plate just enough so the head of the bolt was flush. Then flat washers and nylock nuts on the outside. Remember to lube the entire stainless bolts with petroleum jelly, thin coat, before installing. This will reduce the chance of corrosion and ease the nylock nut install. Fill the rudder holes with glass and you will be in business.
I just noticed a tech tip from Cyana that shows the steering mount welded to the rudder head. Still confused about the quality of weld vs bolt. Any ideas or comments
If I've learned something from Frog's post, I'd say it looks like this bracket is made out of tensiled aluminum, as opposed to forged aluminum, iow. the same stuff the rudder head is made of.....so the two can be welded together. Which is, ouf course the answer to your problem. I should have thought of that sooner. Print out the above picture, bring the old bracket and the rudder head, and start shopping around the metal fabrication shops. A suggestion there: Folks engaged in racing, and making racing cars/go carts etc. use and weld aluminum frames.
My take is that the contractor that makes up the rudder heads, fabricates the steering arm recevier as well instead of using the Edson supplied receiver that is depicted in Zebra pic.
If I recall, he had the wheel kit added by a dealer and they may or may not have determined the same thing as Frog... not to try to weld the dissimilar metals... one clearly casted and the other cold rolled or drawn.
All the receivers that I've seen on the 250's have been welded on but I agree not to do it with that receiver. In fact, I'd suggested the option of bolting it on with flat head countersunk bolts when sharing some email concerning balancing the rudder after the steering had been installed.
Arlyn hit the nail on the head. The bracket shown in the tech tip was manufactured from the same material as the kickup plate. That is an option for you if you would rather have it welded. Take the Edson supplied bracket to a fab shop along with the kickup plate and they can make one and arch all at the same time.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Arlyn hit the nail on the head.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The second picture is actually from my article about upgrading to the new pull-pull system on Escape. The bracket was assembled out of similar metals and then anodized.
Many other add-ons, to numerous to post at one time. Anchor holder pulpit mount, shore power/battery charger, pedestal steering w/motor controls, <font color="red">full cockpit bimini</font id="red">, bar-b-que, fresh water diverter line for pump out, interior cabin fans, curtains, blaster pump in fuel locker etc. I even have way to many drink holders.
Jay, How much of your cockpit does your bimini cover? How does it attach? How does it store? I am looking at the bimini from the Canvas Store, but I would like to know what options are available.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jfesi</i> <br />[quote]<i>Originally posted by zebra50</i>
Jay, How much of your cockpit does your bimini cover? How does it attach? How does it store? I am looking at the bimini from the Canvas Store, but I would like to know what options are available.
Thanks for your help, Joe <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The bimini covers almost all the cockpit except for about a foot before the cabin hatch. It is zippered to the folding frame, and that includes having zippers for the split backstays. The zippers are the heavy duty plastic type. My dealer had it made for me. I can get you the info if you want it, and show it to you next spring. To store it during the season, I just fold up the frame and use the tie downs to wrap around the unit to keep it closed up. Winter time I unzip and take it off. The only addition I would make if I had to do over would be to put either a flap or clear opening so that I could watch the windvane/sail while steering. Now I have to lean back to look up. Oh the inconvenience!! I dont have a picture of the bimini open.
I received a quote of $1095 from the Canvas Store for a bimini for my C250. Anyone getting any other prices from other vendors or prices for custom made? Dan #727
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.