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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Leaking windows

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JohnG
Deckhand

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4 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/02/2003 : 19:16:10

I have a 1980 Catalina 25 and the windows are leaking bad. I purchased the glazing channel from Catalina Direct and used their Life Seal, which combines polyurethene and silicon. My problem is that the window that I worked on still leaks, and I'm not sure what I've done wrong. I've been told that a polysulfide caulk will do a better job and that I should stretch the glazing, especially around the corners. One problem I've had is that the channel buckles at the corners. Stretching helps , but are there any other suggestions. I've also read that the caulk should be put on liberally, which I don't think I did. What should I use to seal the window frame to the fiberglass. I used 3M 4200. Was that a mistake also? Lots of questions.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 12/02/2003 : 20:57:25

John, we've written extensively about this topic - have you done a search yet?

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cch
Navigator

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202 Posts

Response Posted - 12/02/2003 : 23:11:25

John,

In a posting a few months ago Derek Crawford suggested the use of a product called "flowable silicone" to seal windows. My initial thought was that I should remove and rebed the windows to do a proper job of it. The fact of the matter was that after all the other projects I was doing on the boat I had little time, patience and money to tear the windows out and start over. More than anything I wanted a dry boat. After years of a leaky keel trunk I couldn't handle any leaking.

I found the "flowable silicone" at the car parts store made by a company named Permatek. It was a little difficult to get used to working with. Use sparingly until you get used to it. It is pretty runny. Anyway it worked great. No more leaks.

Thanks to Derek and any others who suggested the flowable silicone.

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 12/02/2003 : 23:14:55

I used 3M 101 to bed the frames to the cabin. IMHO 4200 might be a bit too adhesive to get the frames out.

My windows had originally been bedded to the cabin with 'putty strips' as commonly used in RV's. When I re-bedded I used 101... it took lots of it.

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 12/03/2003 : 00:00:08

On my 1979 C-25, I rebedded and sealed the four main cabin fixed portlights. I used RV window putty tape between the aluminum and the fiberglass. While each window assembly was removed, I dug out the old sealant on the exterior side between the aluminum frame and the tempered glass. I then tried to apply a fillet of the flowable silicone auto windshield adhesive sealant in that gap. I ended up redoing three of the four because they still leaked between the aluminum frame and the glass.

At least two of those still leak, but less each time. Amazing as it may seem, I still believe I'm on the right track, I just need more practice.

-- Leon Sisson

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Jared
1st Mate

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USA
70 Posts

Response Posted - 12/03/2003 : 07:15:07

A few weeks ago, I replaced a 4 in. x 8 in. "skylight" in the bow of our boat from what used to be 1/8 in. plexiglass to 3/8 in. plexiglass and the guy at West Marine told me not to use 5200 or 4200 because it will cause problems with plastics. Not sure if that would apply to the windows as well, but it would supposedly have an adverse chemical reaction with the plexi. I just used a marine silicone (though he told me honestly to just get some contractor grade silicone from a hardware store - it was actually better). After he told me that I did not need a "marine" silicone, I trusted what he told me about the 5200. Just something to worry about...

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 12/03/2003 : 10:07:18

From a SailNet article titled, "Choosing and Using Sealants" by <i>This Old Boat</i> author Don Casey...

"Either polysulfide or polyurethane would provide a more dependable seal for deadlights, but polysulfide is certain to attack the plastic, and polyurethane prohibits any future disassembly. One alternative is a hybrid sealant—part silicone and part polyurethane. Marketed by BoatLife as Life Seal, this mixture promises a longer-lasting seal for deadlights and other plastic fittings where compression of the sealant cannot be assured."

Keep this quick review in mind when you’re considering a bedding compound:

Polysulfide—a sealant suitable for bedding everything except plastic.

Polyurethane—an adhesive that forms a permanent bond.

Silicone—a gasket material and electrical insulator.

Here is a link to the article [url="http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=caseyd0051"]Choosing and Using Sealants[/url]

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ronrryan
Admiral

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USA
561 Posts

Response Posted - 12/03/2003 : 10:48:31

I did a "quick and dirty" fix on Orion's large stbd window, which was covered with old goop from PO's previous unsuccessful attempts: removed window, raked out old goop between glass and frame on outside, cleaned completely, replaced with Lifeseal clear(masked). Next cleaned inside of frame thoroly, replaced window using butyl tape from auto store (NAPA). This required pressure from outside on each screw location as inside man set the screws. No leaks!. Downside: The butyl is black, at least the tape I was able to get, and it tends to run just a little in the Fla heat. Upside: nothing is forever, but I truly do believbe that butyl stuff will make a flexible and perfect seal until long after I am dribbling on myself in the old folks warehouse. Fair winds, ron srsk Orion SW FL

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.