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 Leaking Water Ballast Valve (epilogue)
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Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2030 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/09/2003 :  15:41:41  Show Profile  Visit Oscar's Homepage
The top of the "dome" in the bottom step of the companion way ladder where the big "wing nut" sits that closes/opens the water ballast valve is designed to be above the water line......unless you go cruising with four people and tons of gear.

The hole is, on Lady Kay, right on the edge of the dome. Flat rubber washers do not seal around corners, thus it leaked. I've been getting by with putting in thick rubber grommets that somewhat seal around the curve, but I had to torque it way down, which I don't like.

So today I got around to fixing this problem. If there is any interest out there I'll document my fix.....if not, fughedaboutit.

Oscar
250WB#618 "Sunrise on the Neuse River"


Lady Kay IV, Dragonfly 25 # 54 Former C30#618-C250WB#618-C42#76

Edited by - Oscar on 12/15/2003 22:33:10

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 12/09/2003 :  16:16:22  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
Oscar, this is one of those things that fits the criteria of your coaming box frustration. Mark Melchoir complained to Catalina about that issue way back about hull number 350.

Evidently, Catalina thinks the fix is easier for the customer.

Earlier hull numbers did not suffer this.

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Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2030 Posts

Response Posted - 12/09/2003 :  19:34:26  Show Profile  Visit Oscar's Homepage
I'm trying not to let it get to me. The fix was to create a mould out of thin pvc pipe that fits around the hole, and fill it with epoxy to build it up and create a flat surface for the washer. I also took a piece of 1/2" OD plastic tubing, stuck it in the hole and sighted it to line up with the hole on the bottom of the boat. (I removed the valve). I coated the tube with vaseline, so I could later remove it and have the right diameter properly aligned ('cause it ain't plumb) hole for the threaded rod.....

All works in theory, but I just went out there and the epoxy blew out the electrical tape I used to seal around the mold. I've cleaned up the mess, and was able to save the mold.

Question is, what to use to seal around the mold.....Duct tape? Plumbers putty? I want it to keep the epoxy in, but not adhere to it.....

(answer=museum putty...see my next post)

Oscar
250WB#618 "Sunrise on the Neuse River"


Edited by - Oscar on 12/15/2003 11:06:46
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zebra50
Captain

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USA
408 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2003 :  11:42:07  Show Profile
Oscar

I had the same problem on my 250 hull #370 a couple of years ago. I think there was a fix somewhere in the forum. I used some of that black 3m 5200 I believe it was called, and sealed a metal washer on top of the dome then replaced the through bolt and rubber washer. It works perfectly, have not had a leak in the past two years-from there anyway.

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mday
Navigator

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197 Posts

Response Posted - 12/13/2003 :  14:18:50  Show Profile
Oscar,

I was annoyed by dribbling here too. I cut a big washer out of some automotive gasket material and it's stopped the dribbles for a couple years now. Sounds similar to what Jay did, but I don't recall the brand of the material -- but it was black. The material I found was thick (for a gasket) and slightly spongy so it compressed to the irreqular surface of the dome. You do have to torque the big wing nut down slightly, but I never felt it was overdone. I didn't put a metal washer on top of mine, but it sounds like a good idea -- my washer is getting scuffed up by the wingnut and will need replacing soon.

Max

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Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2030 Posts

Response Posted - 12/15/2003 :  10:59:13  Show Profile  Visit Oscar's Homepage
My problem was not just the irregular surface, but also the fact that the valve stem comes through the dome at an angle, and way too close to the edge of the dome. I guess the "technician" had something in his eye when he drilled the hole......

But......it's taken care of. I cut a mould out of 1-1/4" thin wall pvc pipe...(a sink tail piece) to fit around the dome. I held it in place with museum putty....Then I inserted a piece of 1/2" od plastic pipe into the hole and sighted it to line up with the hole in the bottom. (Again, the valve was removed). I also coated the little pipe with vaseline to facilitate removal. I poured epoxy into the mold, and after it cured I removed the pipe insert. I then ground the top of the built up piece down to the correct angle and now the original rubber and ss washer sit perfectly square to the valve stem. Here's the visual:



Oscar

Lady Kay 250 WB #618

Edited by - Oscar on 12/15/2003 15:31:45
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