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Interior Wood Treatments

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CB
1st Mate

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54 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/29/2003 : 17:21:43

What does one find to be the best treatment for the interior teak/mahogany?
I've used Cetol Satin on the exterior parts, and wanted to freshen up the interior this winter.
Any success stories/recommendations out there?
Thanks,
Chris

'81 sr/sk
#2672
Lake Norman, NC

Edited by - on

eric.werkowitz
Captain

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USA
283 Posts

Response Posted - 12/29/2003 : 21:23:27

CB,

My interior teak was natural, but showed a good deal of wear and tear. Since I prefer the glossy look, I sanded all the pieces I could remove, stained them with Minwax Colonial Maple, and finished them with 3-4 coats of polyurethane. They look good.

Eric Werkowitz
C25 #4969

Edited by - on

oldsalt
Admiral

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USA
578 Posts

Response Posted - 12/29/2003 : 21:23:58

I use a light coat of Starbrite Teak Oil which gives a soft satin finish that I find attractive. Since I use it inside the cabin, the UV in sunlight which normally greatly limits the life of a simple teak oil finish is not a factor.

I use a cheesecloth rag for a very light application which takes only minutes to apply and find that it lasts for quite a few years on the bulkheads and pinrails. I do the cabinet drawers every other year or so and the interior of my '83 looks as new as the day she was delivered from the factory.

I'm sure that many individuals have their own favorite interior finish.

Edited by - oldsalt on 12/29/2003 21:27:10

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 12/29/2003 : 21:32:38

This is one of those topics that will likely generate at least as many opinions as there are responses.

About a year ago, I stripped, sanded, and varnished a few interior pieces with about 3 or 4 coats of satin finish marine grade varnish as an experiment. I'm very pleased with the results compared to oil or liquid wax. However, when I continue, I'll use high gloss varnish for all but the final coat, so as to let as much of the grain shine through as possible. I'll also experiment with leaving some of the parts high gloss at least temporarily to see if I like it.

I used Cetol on the companionway trim and stairs because those parts are exposed to direct sunlight and other abuse when my boat is in use. So far, everyone who has commented on it has complimented my on the "varnish". No one has said, "Yuck, Cetol! And on the interior, too! How could you?"

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 12/30/2003 : 00:07:04

Many of us on this forum swear by Howard's Restor-a-Finish. So easy to apply and smells nice too!

(I use the "Golden Oak" shade).
Derek

Edited by - on

204013391
Deckhand

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7 Posts

Response Posted - 12/30/2003 : 09:54:25

Though my boat is older (83), the interior was in pretty good shape. I was very pleased with a simple application of lemon oil. On some of the more worn areas such as the hatch, I'm sanding and using Cetol.

My Exterior Before & After Pictures: http://www.troyandcheryl.com/P005-Boat.htm

Edited by - on

John Bixby
Navigator

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118 Posts

Response Posted - 12/30/2003 : 10:20:53

I used marine spar varnish. It has held up very well
on the interior. Used Cetol on the exterior.
john on ms. achsa

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 12/30/2003 : 11:12:37

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by John Bixby
 I used marine spar varnish. It has held up very well
on the interior. Used Cetol on the exterior.
john on ms. achsa
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I still find your split (for and aft) Bimini to be unique, any pictures of it in use and going together?

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 12/30/2003 : 12:03:27

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by John Bixby
 I used marine spar varnish. It has held up very well
on the interior. Used Cetol on the exterior.
john on ms. achsa
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I still find your split (for and aft) Bimini to be unique, any pictures of it in use and going together?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Frank...The bimini belongs to Troy and Cheryl.

Edited by - on

frich
Captain

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USA
418 Posts

Response Posted - 12/30/2003 : 15:41:35

I have used west marines water based teak oil with coconut smell. It lasts well past (1) season works well, smells good, and best is I dont have to be to careful w/ spillage as it cleans easily.

Frank R
84 C25 SK

Edited by - on

Raskal
Navigator

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USA
162 Posts

Response Posted - 12/30/2003 : 16:29:00

Chris,
You're bound to get a zillion good answers on what to do about the decorative wood but one thing I found out when checking and cleaning my C25 is that the hatch boards and seat bottoms are very cheap plywood, apparently not even marine grade (because there are too many hollow spots). It will be worthwile to seal them up with anything, paint, epoxy, you name it, but make them water tight. On one of my seats that people sat on wet over the years the outer layer was beginning to buckle like cardboard.

The edges should have all of the holes filled and be sanded. Don't try removing the decorative trim from the seat edges--these are only stapled on and will be a bear to reattach if you do.

I found that the clear epoxy I used caused the plywood to darken to the same hue as the teak veneer so that they matched well enough. They came out shinier, though, so you may want to experiment with different finishes on the undersides until you find the best match for what you're doing to the veneer.

Rich Kokoska

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 12/30/2003 : 16:43:45

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">

Frank...The bimini belongs to Troy and Cheryl.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

DOH!

Edited by - on

oldsalt
Admiral

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USA
578 Posts

Response Posted - 12/30/2003 : 19:01:11

The hatch boards on my '83 are solid teak, very heavy and easy to maintain and care for. As for the bottom of the interior seats, they are made of masonite which still is in as new condition.

It's amazing to see the amount of variation which can be found between boats that aren't all that far apart in production numbers.

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 12/31/2003 : 07:57:43

Check out Waterlox. They make a great product that, in my opinion far surpasses Cetol. (Something I wouldn't have said about 4 months ago.) There is a link to the website in our links section and I believe they sell sample "packets" of their special mix for testing or evaluation. There is no sanding between coats, or for reapplication. http://www.waterlox.com/product.cfm?productid=9
This link should take you directly to the marine product.

dw

Edited by - on

Mark Loyacano
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 12/31/2003 : 08:38:13

Duane, this certainly looks interesting. Do you know if it "fills in" (flows) as well as Cetol?
Thanks,

Edited by - on

Brooke Willson
Admiral

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USA
983 Posts

Response Posted - 12/31/2003 : 10:16:35

Lemon oil smells great, repels mildew, is easy to apply and to clean up if spilled, and, if applied once in the spring and once in the fall, keeps my cabin looking great.

Brooke

Edited by - on

Raskal
Navigator

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USA
162 Posts

Response Posted - 12/31/2003 : 12:56:03

Mark, you're lucky to have been in that part of the production run with solid teak hatchboards! My horizontal boards and seats don't even have a layer of veneer for decoration (except for the bilge boards). The vertical fore and aft compartment lids and the lazarette bulkhead are nicer veneer. They must have gone cheaper on anything that wasn't visible with the cushions in place.

Rich Kokoska

Edited by - on

Mark Loyacano
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 12/31/2003 : 16:41:50

Raskal, my C25 is a '78. The original hatchboards were very worn out so I bought solid teak boards from Catalina Direct. They are well made and have held up through two seasons now. I applied three or four coats of Cetol 'Light' when they were new. The Cetol holds up well but I should add that I keep a light canvas cover over my hatch while away from the boat. It, of course, blocks UV damage but more important, prevents water, dust and bugs from getting into the cabin.

Cetol dissapoints me. My handrails and sliding hatch rails started peeling after one season (only on top where the sun gets to them). I know everything was thoughroughly sanded and prepped "by the book". Application and climate also, "by the book". It does flow and fill well during application. Much better than varnish.

Edited by - Mark Loyacano on 12/31/2003 16:50:44

Shelby
Navigator

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USA
155 Posts

Response Posted - 12/31/2003 : 17:07:57

I used Cetol about a year and half ago and still looks good...even in the AZ heat.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 12/31/2003 : 19:00:24

I haven't touched my Cetol covered exterior teak trim and solid teak hatchboards in two years (and I'll probably go another year, maybe more) and I continue to get compliments on the finish.

Edited by - on

Gary B.
Admiral

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USA
969 Posts

Response Posted - 01/01/2004 : 06:31:42

I love spar varnish for below decks, (and it's gorgeous on the exterior if you keep after it religiously). I prefer Cetol, which holds up really well on my boat.

Duane, my question is: "How can you think Waterlox is better than Cetol when you have only known of it for 4 months?" For me, the superiority of Cetol is in its durability, I would only find something superior if it LASTED longer. What am I missing here?

Gary B.
Encore! #685 SK/SR
Commodore of Vice

Edited by - on

Denny
Deckhand

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USA
12 Posts

Response Posted - 01/01/2004 : 11:25:43

What does one find to be the best treatment for the interior teak/mahogany?

Any success stories/recommendations out there?

Just another opinion. I have been working on my fixer upper and have been using Old English orange oil on the interior wood. It looks and smells great. I don't know what the PO used but it took a lot of work to clean up areas he got on the fiberglass. Old English doesn't seem to do that. One of my sailing mentors likes how it is turning out and is going to try it.

Denny

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2004 : 12:49:32

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">

Duane, my question is: "How can you think Waterlox is better than Cetol when you have only known of it for 4 months?" For me, the superiority of Cetol is in its durability, I would only find something superior if it LASTED longer. What am I missing here?

Gary B.
Encore! #685 SK/SR
Commodore of Vice
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Commodore of Vice - (guess that's better than the commodore of rear?)

I've seen boats that have had it on their teak for over 5 years which around here would include outdoor storage during the winter months. Compared to the Cetol I've used, it appears to hold up much better. The Sikkens product still looks pretty on my boat in most areas, but I've noticed that it has weathered poorly in some higher traffic areas. (companionway, hatchboards etc.)

dw

Edited by - on

cch
Navigator

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202 Posts

Response Posted - 01/04/2004 : 10:57:34

CB,

My PO had taken the time to varnish all the interior teak. It looks great and has held up very well. The companionway and steps have taken quite a beating so I use Cetol light as I can touch it up quickly and easily.

Mold and mildew are a constant problem in our Florida location and the varnished teak has been easy to clean and maintain. If it was up to me I don't know I would be able to spend the time to varnish all that teak. Every time I head to the boat to work on it, I tend to just take her out for a "a little spin"

Edited by - on

lcharlot
Master Marine Consultant

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Antigua and Barbuda
1301 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2004 : 08:29:35

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Duane Wolff
 Check out Waterlox. They make a great product that, in my opinion far surpasses Cetol.
dw
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The prices quoted on the Waterloz website are about $4.00/quart less than West Marine's price for Cetol. If Waterlox has as least as much UV and wear resistance as Cetol, it might be worth trying if you can find a local retailer that carries it. One thing I don't like about Cetol is that it is so difficult to clean up dried spots of it on fiberglass, especialy non-skid areas. Once dried, it is as tenacious as epoxy. Of course, durability is the main rreason to use Cetoal in the first place, so I guess I shouldn't complain about it

Edited by - on

ddlyle
Captain

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302 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2004 : 08:37:36

Duane (or anyone else)
Regarding Waterlox...
I wonder if I would have to TOTALLY sand away all of the Cetol I have remaining on my exterior to apply Waterlox? Or would a light sanding
suffice to clean/smooth the surface?
Does anyone know?
Thanks

Edited by - on

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