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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm talking floor boards here (inspection plates) Has anyone used a chemical stripper to remove varnish. I want to take these down to the bare wood so I can refinish them.
My previous effort w/ Captains varnish left some spots that came out lighter than others, probably had moisture in the wood.
I avoid chemical strippers when possible just because I always seem to make more of a mess than you would think is appropriate.
If you have a veneered surface, like thin plywood, I use a heat gun and an edge scraper... heat the varnish and scape most of it off. Then a little sanding to get ready for the new varnish.
If it is solid lumber I again use a scraper and then sand more aggressively.
With a sharp scraper you will be amazed at how smooth and clean you can get the wood.
Light spots like you describe are often some sort of sealer on the wood (glue, epoxy, something) that is altering the absorption of the varnish into the wood.
Chemical strippers will certainly do this job for you, but if you're like me have plenty of old newspaper around! For just varnish you don't need anything fancy. Check your local home and hardware store in the paint section. I would think that a quart would be plenty for the floor boards.
Like Clif, I've also gotten out of the habit of using commercial finish strippers unless there's a horrible buildup to be removed. In the case of veneers, I'd be concerned about causing delamination too. When I need to remove varnish, etc. I usually switch back and forth between loosening with acetone, heat w/scraping, and precise sanding. (Or in the case of thick badly weathered teak, agressive sanding.)
I also agree that the uneven bright finish is probably due to lingering contamination in the wood grain. I've had trouble with oils and old liquid wax -- took a lot of acetone to rinse it all out.
I haven't used wood scrapers much, but they seem to work well, and I've heard very good things about them. Maintaining the proper tool edge is key.
Frank, I'd like to suggest an alternative. Instead, paint it. I had to do some repair on the interior fiberglass and had some latex paint mixed to match the original. This was so successful I used it on the floor boards. It really looks better now having it all the same color .
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.