Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am putting a plan together to finally run my main halyard, cunningham, boom vang and reefing line back to the cockpit. I'm going to put 2 on each side of the cabin top and am planning on using rope/line clutches. I went out and priced the blocks and deck organizers, and I can handle those. (I installed the mast plate from CD last year to be ready.) Then I priced the rope clutches. The Lewmar and Spinlocks are $99.95 each! These are for a double.
Would cam cleats work, as they are much less expensive? Or, should I just bite the bullet and buy 2 of them for a total of $200? It just seems a bit expensive. Actually, would just a cleat work? (Maybe I should just hang on to the main halyard while I'm sailing!) Just kidding!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">(Maybe I should just hang on to the main halyard while I'm sailing!) Just kidding!<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Or, you could tie it around your waist.
I don't remember when rope clutches first appeared on the market, but when I first saw lines led aft to the cockpit, about 20 years ago, cam cleats were used.
The prices quoted by Don sound pretty good, though, and they would make an orderly and functional installation.
Dave & Sharon - on "This Side Up" I brought the vang, cunningham & reefing line along the port side to 2 cam cleats and a clam cleat (for the reefing line)installed at the end of the cabin top between the handrail and the sliding hatch (there is just enough room). On the stbd side I brought back all 3 halyards to a triple clutch and thence to a winch. The halyards, at times, really need a winch assist to hoist fully, and the clutch allows any one to be held while working the other)s). Derek
Great information! Thanks for the help. It sounds like the right way (using clutches) is probably the best way. I'll go that route. I'll do some checking and see what kind of prices I can get. I'm going to Strictly Sail this weekend in Chicago. Can I get any better deals there?
I suggest you bite the bullet and go for Spinlock XAS triples. Like fhopper says, "you can never have too many options."
Here's what I've done, and a suggestion for saving a bit. I firmly believe that line clutches are justified for halyards and probably reefing lines on a 25' boat because of the potentially high loads. I installed a Spinlock XAS triple clutch and a stacked triple (6-sheeve) organizer on each side, and relocated the mast mounted Lewmar #7 winch to tension the two port headsail halyards. I routed the halyards, reefing lines, and (future) spinnaker tack downhaul to clutches through the lower level of organizer sheeves, which can handle slightly higher loads. However, the other mast control lines are lightly loaded enough that the upper level of organizer sheeves and camcleats will work, and so that's what I use for my 3:1 topping lift, 4:1 downhaul/cunningham, and 6:1 vang. (My 8:1 outhaul is controlled by a pivoting "head knocker" camcleat hanging from the boom.) If you do the arithmetic, yes, I have slightly more clutches than I'm using now. That came in very handy when one of them developed a hairline crack near the beginning of a month long cruise. At the damaged clutch group, I swapped the affected jib halyard with the currently unused spinnaker halyard. Presto, instant jury rig! No parts ordered or chased, no cash spent. Trip continued without delay or hassles!
Doing the lines lead aft upgrade right the first time can be expensive, but probably not as expensive and frustrating as doing it wrong the first time.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Derek Crawford</i> <br />. . . on "This Side Up" I brought the vang, cunningham & reefing line along the port side to 2 cam cleats and a clam cleat . . . On the stbd side I brought back all 3 halyards to a triple clutch and thence to a winch. The halyards, at times, really need a winch assist to hoist fully, and the clutch allows any one to be held while working the other)s). Derek <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Excellent advice/setup . . . the clutches also allow you to release really taunt halyards with minimal effort.
Max in MD - all my halyards (external) run thru' turning blocks on the stbd side of the mast step, and then turn thru' a triple organiser and back to the triple clutch. Derek
On Nin Bimash II I use two double rope clutches, a set on each side for halyards and lines that are set and left. For more active lines, boom vang and down haul I use harken cam cleats. the main halyard uses a larger turning block due to the higher load. The lines aft are from stb. to pt.: main halyard, reefing, down haul, boom vang, out haul, spinnaker halyard, and far to port on the cockpit combing the jib reefing/furling line. Catalina Direct sells a turning block plate that can be placed under the mast step. I found it very easy to install and removing the mast step gave opportunity to dry out the mast step area and to fill the dried out screw holes with epoxy. Re-bedding the step made me feel very confident in this rather critical point in the standing structure.
John, I installed that plate last year in preparation for doing what I hope to be doing. It was pretty easy to install, although I had to redrill some holes on it.
I also appreciate hearing your configuration. I'm going to run my main halyard and cunningham to the starboard and my boom vang and reefing line to the port. I have a furler where I just leave my jib halyard and don't need to run it back. I don't know if that's right to do with the jib halyard. I presume with a furler that you don't have to do anything with it once it's up. I do adjust tension on the forestay by using the backstay adjuster.
Anyway, that's how I hope to run things. I don't plan on putting on a winch. If I need one occasionally I can always run it to the jib winch.
<font size="2"> <font face="Comic Sans MS"> I have [url="http://www.catalina25-250.org/tech/tech25/tt008.htm"] triple rope clutches [/url] on both sides of the cabin top. Unlike the description in the Tech Tips I now have the reefing line, topping lift and main halyard on the port side with a cabin top winch and main out haul and spinnaker halyard (in my case it’s a drifter halyard) on the starboard side without a winch. IMO the triples will pay for themselves the first time you reef from the cockpit in under a minute when wind picks up.
Underlined words are a <b><font color="red">HOT</font id="red"></b> link. </font id="size2"> </font id="Comic Sans MS">
I added Easylock Mini clutches to the cabin top of my Cat25. I think Catalina Direct was selling those at the time.
Later I needed a triple and found them for a good price at http://www.stevestonmarine.com Just checked the price, the single is $51.49US, double $93.28US, and triple $134.32US. Don't know if those are good prices anymore, but the clutches work great.
Also check with Catalina Direct about their prices on the XAS clutches--they have the singles, doubles, and triples, and I recall that they included the bolts, nuts and washers (sized for the C-25 coachroof). While I have two doubles, I suspect I only really need a clutch for my main halyard, because of the load. Cams would probably be sufficient for most other things. My furling jib halyard is "permanently" winched and cleated on the mast.
Gary, that is a great picture! I printed it off to give me some guidance. I originally intended to not install a cabin top winch, but after I get it all going I still may add it later on. I also have thought recently to not limit myself and going to a triple on both sides as it is cheaper to do it now than to do it later on. I would also then need to go to the triple deck organizer on both sides. It's all more expensive, but it's the right way to go in the long run.
<font size="2"> <font face="Comic Sans MS"> The best thing about the photo is the nice work Gary did on the teak. Yes it is all more expensive but it really was why I bought “Peregrine” instead of the other C25’s I looked at. I singlehand most of the time and it makes for an easy boat to sail in a wide variety of conditions. IMO you will make that money back and you will get the benefit of well rigged boat. </font id="size2"> </font id="Comic Sans MS">
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.