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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Standing Rigging Spec's

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Bruce Ebling
Navigator

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USA
155 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/21/2004 : 13:17:14

I am going to be replacing my standing rigging this next sailing seasona and was looking up lengths of stays and shrouds. I need a shopping list to compare prices. I found one set of lengths in the Tech manual and another in an old copy of the "Rigging Wire Check List" dated 1981, revised 1988. There are differences between the two in the backstay and upper shroud lengths. Does anyone have the correct lengths for a 1989 std. rig??
Thanks!
Bruce Ebling
1989 WK "Selah"

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2004 : 13:36:20

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Bruce Ebling
 I am going to be replacing my standing rigging this next sailing seasona and was looking up lengths of stays and shrouds. I need a shopping list to compare prices. I found one set of lengths in the Tech manual and another in an old copy of the "Rigging Wire Check List" dated 1981, revised 1988. There are differences between the two in the backstay and upper shroud lengths. Does anyone have the correct lengths for a 1989 std. rig??
Thanks!
Bruce Ebling
1989 WK "Selah"
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

If you are having your new standing rigging made locally, you can give them your old shrouds and stays to use as a template.

I don't have my CD book handy, but do they list the standing rigging sizes in it?

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2004 : 14:18:01

No, Don, they don't. However, they do note that something is different with the backstay beginning in 1988. There are not any other notes denoting any other differences.

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2004 : 14:25:42

Have you considered getting some "sta-lock" (or similar) terminals, some wire, and doing your own? More corrosion resistant than the stock 'rolled' swages... very 'bristol'. Only special tool needed is a cable cutter (which is good to have as an emergency tool anyway).

Edited by - on

Bruce Ebling
Navigator

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USA
155 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2004 : 17:36:45

Can you recommend a source for the rigging and sta lock fittings?

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2004 : 18:15:41

Bruce Ebling,<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Can you recommend a source for the rigging and sta lock fittings?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">When I rerigged my C-25, I got most of the books, video, parts, and supplies from [url="http://www.briontoss.com/"]Brion Toss Rigging[/url]. I think I found a better price on open body bronze turnbuckles (Hayn) from [url="http://www.defender.com/"]Defender Industries[/url] and [url="http://www.westmarine.com/"]West Marine[/url]. Be sure to get eye rigging terminals, and toggle-jaw/toggle-jaw turnbuckles. This is a fine opportunity to add a toggle to the top of your forestay if you don't have one there now.

Oh, and search the archives -- this topic was been discussed here before.

-- Leon Sisson

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John G-
Admiral

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793 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2004 : 19:17:41

I went the way of least resistance and ordered the [url="http://www.catalinadirect.com/standing%20rigging%20kit.html"]C25 standing rigging kit [/url]from [url="http://www.catalinadirect.com/"] Catalina Direct. [/url] Everything fit and the job was done in an hour. Check the prices and the amount of time to order all the parts and get the wire cut. I think the [url="http://www.catalinadirect.com/"] Catalina Direct. [/url] was the easiest and fastest way to go. I have had no problems with the rig and I feel it is stronger and safer than the original that I had. I did have the yard redo my forstay and the price was comparable to the [url="http://www.catalinadirect.com/"] Catalina Direct. [/url] price so I let them do it.

Underlined words are a HOT link.

Edited by - John G- on 02/21/2004 19:24:29

John G-
Admiral

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793 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2004 : 19:27:34

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 Psssst...Psssst...John...John...down here.

I think you meant to say Catalina Direct in your post instead of Cruising Direct.

Don't worry, I won't tell anyone!

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
 
Thanks that’s what I meant to say. Correction made.

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Bruce Ebling
Navigator

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USA
155 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2004 : 22:20:15

I got all jazzed by considering to do my own rigging using the Sta Lok fittings. The best price I found was on www.riggingonly.com. Using their prices (which were lower than Defender) it came to approximately 125' of 3/16 wire ($105), 59' of 5/32 wire ($34.22), 8 studs@$195, and 8 eyes@$174. This makes a grand total of near $615 which does not include the turnbuckles. I believe the Catalina Direct price including turnbuckles is about $600.Is there a decided advantage to doing your own? It seems to be much more expensive, unless I have mis-figured things.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 02/22/2004 : 00:19:15

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Bruce Ebling

Is there a decided advantage to doing your own [rigging assembly]?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Yes, several.<ul>
<li>You get to choose the wire supplier and alloy -- I much prefer 316 through Brion Toss Rigging as opposed to 302/304 from the lowest bidder.</li>
<li>You get to choose the turnbuckles -- I much prefer bronze open body with 316SS toggle-jaw/toggle-jaw ends as opposed to crimp threaded tubes of unknown SS alloy.</li>
<li>You get to choose rigging terminals -- I prefer eye terminals, which permit end-for-ending the wires every few years, thus prolonging their life similar to rotating car tires. Also, if the upper threads at the turnbuckle become damaged, this way you're buying (or carrying spare) turnbuckle parts, not a whole new stay.</li>
<li>Also, Sta-Loks are field servicable and reusable -- next time around all you have to buy is the wire and Sta-Lok cones (maybe $1 ea.).</li>
<li>You get to prepack the terminals with your choice of waterproof goo, preventing oxidation and crevice corrosion from starting where you can't see it inside the oxygen starved terminal.</li>
<li>You now have the opportunity to add a toggle to the top of your forestay, reducing unfair side loading and the resulting stress concentration on the forestay at the upper terminal.</li></ul>By the way, I didn't need an expensive cable cutter -- I used a sharp fine tooth hacksaw and a scrap of 2x4 as shown in the Brion Toss video on Sta-Lok installation. That cuts your tool list down to: <ul><li>Measuring tape</li>
<li>sharp fine tooth hacksaw</li>
<li>scrap of 2x4</li>
<li>masking tape</li>
<li>marker pen</li>
<li>(2) open-end wrenches (go ahead and use adjustables, I did)</li>
<li>needle nose pliers (optional, but handy)</li>
<li>polysulfide goo</li>
<li>(blue)Lok-Tite</li>
</ul>
-- Leon Sisson

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