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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Are you planning on having your topping lift setup start at the end of the boom, then go up to the masthead, and finally down along the mast to the cabon top?
As I recall.. on mine there is a 3/16" hole drilled through both sides of the aft masthead 'extension'... (about halfway back to where the backstay is attached). A stainless bolt with a nylon locking nut provides the attachment point for the topping lift block shackle.
While you can put a sheave through the clevis that supports the backstay, (I keep a spare sheave there myself)there is nothing to keep the line on the sheave at that location so a line would fall off and fall down to the clevis. SO, if you want to install a topping lift that runs down the mast then you will need to put a small block of there, much like installing a spinnaker halyard block on the front of the mast head only smaller. I now have three halyards that are run externally and adding a topping lift running down that crowded mast would be a mistake for me. If a person had internal halyards they might come to a differnt conclusion. I use the standard configuation of a topping lift terminating at the backstay clevis on the mast head and running through a block at the end of the boom. I have run mine on forward to the mast at the gooseneck and down to the cabin top.
I don't know if you race your boat, but having a topping lift block at the masthead means that your topping lift will both go up to and then down from the masthead putting twice as much line aloft as one would have with just a single line going up. Additionally, you also have the added weight of the block itself and as someone stated recently (Derek?), "a pound at the masthead is worth 50 at the rail".
If the topping lift line runs done the outside of the mast, you may end up with another line that will slap the mast when in port.
When adding a topping lift to my boat, I used the thimbled wire rope portion of the old halyard as part of the topping lift. One end of this wire rope is attached to the backstay clevis pin and the other thimbled end has a single block. The wire rope comes down to about 2 or 3 feet from the end of the boom. The rest of the setup involves regular line with a 2:1 purchase.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br />Some things to consider...
I used the thimbled wire rope portion of the old halyard as part of the topping lift. One end of this wire rope is attached to the backstay clevis pin and the other thimbled end has a single block. The wire rope comes down to about 2 or 3 feet from the end of the boom. The rest of the setup involves regular line with a 2:1 purchase.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> That is a great tip, I think I will do that.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Derek Crawford</i> <br />"a pound at the masthead is worth 50 at the rail". Don - that should be "a pound LESS at the masthead..." Derek<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br />Some things to consider...
I used the thimbled wire rope portion of the old halyard as part of the topping lift. One end of this wire rope is attached to the backstay clevis pin and the other thimbled end has a single block. The wire rope comes down to about 2 or 3 feet from the end of the boom. The rest of the setup involves regular line with a 2:1 purchase.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> That is a great tip, I think I will do that. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
That's my set up, as well. I used 1/4" line and blocks. Even though I installed the adjustable topping lift two years ago, I just yesterday finally completed the project by cutting off the pigtail and its broken clip. Used my new Dremel (a guy really shouldn't have to wait until he's 41 to get a Dremel, tool cool!) to cut through, very carefully, the two compression fittings. Now, I can hank my anchor staysail on without having to stand on the stern pulpit rail on my tippy toes.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Antares</i> <br />...Used my new Dremel (a guy really shouldn't have to wait until he's 41 to get a Dremel, tool cool... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I'll second that on the Dremel...and coincidently, I turn 41 today!
. . . I turn 41 today! . . . I hope my wife hires a for the party! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Congrats Don!
My wife would say to <i>me</i> "With you here why would we need to <i>hire</i> a clown?"<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.