Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've been following the discussion about Poliglow and am interested giving it a try. Have any of you used it on the topsides? I wonder if it would also improve the appearance of the cockpit, cabin sides, etc. I would think putting it on nonskid may produce less than desirable results.
I've thought about putting maybe two very light coats on the nonskid to seal it against droppings of various sorts. Two thin coats don't make that much of a shine, and should be hard enough not to make the nonskid slippery. I'll try an obscure area first.
As I recall, PoliGlow does not recommend using their stuff on decks ... it gets really slippery when wet. I think I'd try the verticle surfaces and explore using it somewhere other than anyplace you might place a foot. I do like the boat to stay clean an keep it's shine ... please let us know how it works out.
I bought a product from Hawaii called Island Girl Pink for the deck, I have not used it yet but the people who make it like it! Remember I use VertGlass from lovettmarine, guess what, Lovett says it's better than PolyGlow. I assume they are generically the same.
On my 19-year-old gelcoat, a little PoliGlow isn't likely to be slipperier than the gelcoat on a new boat. Unlike wax, it dries to a very hard surface. But as I said, I'll test an area and report back here (in a few months).
BTW, I suspect both PoliGlow and Vertglass are repackaged Mop-n-Glow...
I've been looking around other sites and found this:
"I can't stress enough that if your anti-skid is in anything better than fair condition that you shouldn't use PoliGlow on it. PoliGlow makes everything slick. Not good for foredeck work on a heaving wet deck. My problem was that the anti-skid had lost all of its mechanical properties and it was cracked and looking poor. I wound up slathering on the PoliGlow over the whole boat and found that after a few weeks the slickness subsided somewhat and now after a few months it still looks good and provides adequate traction. "
I've read that it lasts between one and three years.
Thanks for the input! About 12 years ago Confetti's hull was refinished with Awlgrip, and still looks great, but her deck is 28 years old and looks like it, with zillions of hairline cracks from the gelcoat becoming brittle and a lot of flexing from sailing/racing.
Frank, I would be interested in hearing about how well the Island Girl products work. Their web site makes them sound like the cure for dead gelcoat. Where did you find the Pink stuff? Mike
While I've never heard of Poliglow (tho' I'll be looking it up here shortly), the fellow at the local WM seems reasonably knowledgeable and recommended '3M Marine Fiberglass Restorer and Wax 09006'. Does anyone have any experience with this particular product?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by mmac</i> <br />Frank, I would be interested in hearing about how well the Island Girl products work. Their web site makes them sound like the cure for dead gelcoat. Where did you find the Pink stuff? Mike <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
3M's Fiberglass Restorer is good for older fiberglass, to remove mild chalking, stains, marks, etc., and put a wax shine on it. PoliGlow is different--it does not remove anything--it puts a shine on whatever you wipe it on. (Clean the boat carefully--PoliGLow will enhance every stain and mark!) Poliglow sells a kit with a very strong cleaner, which can also remove the Poliglow, itself. But some marks and stains need rubbing out.
My hull took about 5 coats to look good--the first soaked in and disappeared, the second looked streaky, the third looked better, and by the fifth, it had a nice, even shine. The good news is each coat takes maybe 10 minutes per side, with no rubbing, buffing or anything. I didn't do anything to it last year (the second year), and it still has a nice shine. The gloss is not as high as new paste wax, but it sure looks better than a 2-year-old wax job! I'll probably add a coat this spring--maybe two. As with Cetol, the advantage is ease of application and maintenance, not the absolute ultimate shine. People looking for a Bristol finish should rub, wax, buff, wax, buff, wax,......
I prefer my white (oxidized) hull over the original tan. Does anyone know if PoliGlow will give me a shiny white hull, if I don't buff the oxidization off?
Thanks for the reference! Really astounding results! Looks like I will be visiting the store tomorrow and see what I can find!!!
Chuck
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by TomA</i> <br />Chuck, Check out this URL. The site's author has posted before and after pictures. Very impressive!
Chuck: I suspect you won't find it in the store--at least not West or BoatUS... Try Googling "Poli Glow" for some sources. They sell it at boat shows and through some Web stores, but they don't seem to be interested in getting into mass distribution. BTW, 5 coats on my hull took about half a bottle!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Antares</i> <br />I prefer my white (oxidized) hull over the original tan. Does anyone know if PoliGlow will give me a shiny white hull, if I don't buff the oxidization off? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Their boat show demo turns a dull red (but not chaulky) piece of fiberglass to a shiny fire engine red, but in my experience, Poli Glow doesn't really restore color--it puts a shine on whatever you wipe it on, including oxidation, stains, and the like. (I missed a couple of little marks while cleaning my hull, and now they're immortalized. ) I'd be reluctant to apply it over severe chaulking (the kind that rubs off on your finger). If you have stains, marks, and such, you'll probably reveal your tan color by the time you get everything cleaned up sufficiently to put a shine on.
If you want to find out what it will look like without removing the oxidation try a small spot using mop-n-glow. It should only cost a couple of dollars. In my experience using polyglow, it acts exactly like mop-n-glow. I have heard that mop-n-glow will yellow in sunlight. Just try a small area, say under the outboard, before investing in the kit. My hull is still looking great after 8months on a mooring in Florida. It will never look brand new. You can save the $25000 or so difference from our boats and a new one and laugh if you hit the dock. Good luck.
Ok...That is a nice hidden spot on the boat! I know polyglow does not yellow. If mop-n-glow doesnt either....it will be the holy-grail for chalky boats everywhere. Perhaps someone has a boat-flower-pot to try it on. I just love the fact that even the dirty black water of the ST Johns river has no effect on my polyglow hull. Maybe someone could try a spot on one of those marina orphans that has sat at the marina so long the fiberglass is rusting.
No need to try the polyglow on a clean white hull. I was offering the suggestion for an oxidized tan boat. On a clean white hull it just turns it in to a 3 year old finish.(no matter how old the gel coat is)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by atgep</i> <br />I was offering the suggestion for an oxidized tan boat.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> And I intend to try it. Thanks for the suggestion. My white hull looks great, I'd just like to have a little shine, too.
My cabin interior is tan. I assume the topsides and hull also were tan at one time. They have oxidized and are completely white, but not chalky. I've been using 3M restorer for the past 2 years.
I assume the boat touched a piling during a hurricane because the PO had painted a section of the hull white to match the oxidized fiberglass.
I was concerned that the first stage treatment would take the hull back to a tan color that would then contrast with the white painted section. I emailed customer service at Poliglow. They assured me the first stage process will only remove surface oxidation, and would not take the hull back to the original tan color.
My interior is tan/beige/off-white, but the hull and deck are definitely white. Is there another reason, other than the interior color that makes you suspect the hull is tan?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by John Mason</i> <br />My interior is tan/beige/off-white, but the hull and deck are definitely white. Is there another reason, other than the interior color that makes you suspect the hull is tan?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Yes, two. First, everyone else reporting that the original color on their boats was tan. Your testimonial, John, is the first I've read of white topsides. Second, when I removed the twenty year old boat registration numbers last summer the fiberglass underneath was shiny and light tan. My interior is also beige and my deck is most definitely white.
Interesting! Well, there are different shades of white. Maybe mine isn't as white as I think, but when I stripped the bottom to barrier coat it, the whole thing was pretty darn white - above and below the waterline. Same as the deck.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.