Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I had the boys at my office drill out the mast step I bought from CD to match the existing one on my boat.
I know many people have stated that I should now oversize the holes in my deck, fill them with epoxy and then re-drill the proper diameter. This to seal the undersides of the fiberglass. I really dont like cutting any holes in the boat and am hoping someone has another solution.
Their suggestion is (was) the best advice, I think. I drilled mine out, filled the holes with epoxy and sealed the plate down with 5200 sealant. I think the type sealant I used was a mistake. But what is done is done. Many have suggested through bolts. I went back in with lag bolts. As long as the sealant holds up ... I don't feel uncomfortable with lag bolts. If through bolts are used, it is important to follow the suggestion from the previous post ... because any leaks will not only be prevented from leeching into the deck core, but they will be noted from the cabin overhead.
Here's a thought... Tape the bottom of the existing holes and fill them with penetrating epoxy (like Git Rot or West System Penetrating). After a few minutes, pull the tape and catch whatever epoxy drips out, and then, if necessary, run a drill through the hole to return it to its original diameter. The penetrating epoxy should fill the wood around the hole, making it virtually impermeable to water.
I think Catalina used lag screws for a few years, running them into the compression post. Then they extended the tabernacle so the aft holes would line up just aft of the post, and thru-bolted it. That's how my '85 was done, with a welded extension on the tabernacle. If you have lag screws going into the post, I would suggest overdrilling the holes (both diameter and depth), filling about half way with epoxy, and then inserting a waxed lag screw into the liquid epoxy and leaving it there until the epoxy sets up. The wax will allow the screw to back out easily, leaving a perfectly threaded hole. Water will not be able to migrate down the screw into the wooden post.
BTW, I agree with Mark--overdrilling and filling is not like drilling new holes in the deck. You already have the hole, and it's vulnerable. This technique makes it less vulnerable.
There's still one conservative approach left, and that would be to paint the walls of the existing hole with an epoxy paint using a small paint brush. If the fit of the bolt is not too snug then the epoxy should seal off water penetration.
I'm not so familiar with what type of epoxy paints might be available except for the POR-15 line [http://www.por15.com] which has paintable versions.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.