Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I just came back from the meeting at my club where new people are assigned their slips. I ended up at the end of the dock on a half slip. My other options were all shallower water and vulnerable to low water levels. So, I have always had a full slip in the past and have no clue how to keep the side of my boat from getting beat to crap. I assume fenders will play a roll but should I be thinking about putting cushioning the dock?
I've never had the luxury of a full slip! For liability reasons, our marina won't let us install our own dock hardware so I've never padded the edge of the dock. (probably should check with your Marina mgt. about yours)
I use three Taylor fenders... about 6" in diameter and 18" or so long. For tieup I have a bow line, stern line and a pair of springlines.. (bow to amidship, aft to amidship).
IMHO There's no practical way of completely avoiding some 'rub wear' along the fenders (or padded dock). Places like Overtons and Cabelas offer 'mooring whips' that would hold your boat away from the dock.. but I don't think they'd be practical for a C25.
Terry cloth fender covers which prevent the rubber fenders from rubbing aginst your hull will help quite a bit. I've used them in your situation and was pleased with the result.
Frank - I would insist the marina install vinyl protective stripping on the dock edge. If your fenders get popped up due to wave or wake action, your hull is left completely unprotected. Use the biggest fenders you have or can afford to buy, like 24" long x 8" diameter, and use three or even four of them if you can. Think of what a big gelcoat gouge would cost to repair, vs the cost of $100 for a trio of big fenders, which you will want sooner or later anyway for rafting up with other boats on overnight cruises (does your sailing club do overnighters, and does your lake allow boat camping? We have some lakes in California that allow boating dawn-to-dusk only, no overnight boat camping allowed, Whiskeytown Lake up in the north part of the state being a typical example).
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by lcharlot</i> <br />Frank - I would insist the marina install vinyl protective stripping on the dock edge. If your fenders get popped up due to wave or wake action, your hull is left completely unprotected. Use the biggest fenders you have or can afford to buy, like 24" long x 8" diameter, and use three or even four of them if you can. Think of what a big gelcoat gouge would cost to repair, vs the cost of $100 for a trio of big fenders, which you will want sooner or later anyway for rafting up with other boats on overnight cruises (does your sailing club do overnighters, and does your lake allow boat camping? We have some lakes in California that allow boating dawn-to-dusk only, no overnight boat camping allowed, Whiskeytown Lake up in the north part of the state being a typical example). <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
We have full run of the lake 24-7. Years ago when I sailed here we used to raft-up, have picnics, and have water balloon fights fairly often. I was so depressed, (don't they know who I am!!) with the assignment that I did not even go out on the slips and look at it, I just got in my car and came home. I am sure there is some sort of chafe protection but I am not sure just how good it is. These are our newest docks. I have three or four large Taylor fenders. I guess the idea of tying hard to the dock is anathema to me. But, I guess that is what I will need to do.
If you're not sure about being allowed to add padding to the dock, I suggest you take the initiative, and do it without asking. It's usually easier to get forgiveness than permission. If you do a good job, who's going to demand that you take the padding back off??? (I'm picturing some one dressed head to toe in a white uniform, complete with epaulettes, bill cap with scrambled eggs, white patent leather shoes and matching belt. Instead of a ridding crop or swagger stick, he carries a copy of the yacht club rule book while patrolling the docks.)
If you're forced to tie up along side a piling or other projection that might push a fender aside or reach past it to your gelcoat, consider making up a fender board. A fender board kit used to be available, consisting of soft, UV resistant soft rubber end pad fittings which accepted a piece of either 2x4 or 2x6 lumber, and 3/8" dock lines to complete the assembly. I have one of the 2x4 size, but haven't seen them offered lately. With a bit of ingenuity, you can cobble something similar together using a pair of sausage fenders.
As ClamBeach has mentioned, you'll need four docklines. I've found that a handy combination is two 25' springlines, and two 15' bow and stern lines. How you rig them depends on how long a section of dock you have available to tie them off to.
I guess the principle that I don't have a handle on is whether I want the boat to move a bit or try to make it so tight that is can't move. Clam, do I want a mid cleat on the boat or a mid cleat on the dock?
Frank asked... "Clam, do I want a mid cleat on the boat or a mid cleat on the dock?"
Since our bow and stern cleats are fairly small to start with, (IMHO) I'd add a sliding cleat to the genoa track. Currently I use the bases of the rail stanchions to tie off the springlines, but that's really not a very 'bristol' practice. (I have simply been too cheap to spring for the track-mounted cleat. (yet))
I change the tension on my mooring lines with the seasons. In my current slip, prevailing winter winds tend hold the boat against the dock and I will shorten up the lines to take some of the movement out. In the summer, the wind takes the boat away from the dock and I'll loosen the lines up to let her ride away a a bit.
One of the few advantages of owning an older... er... "cosmetically challenged" boat is that you don't worry quite as much about hull chafe and such. ;>)
If there is a mid cleat on the dock I would use that, but if not, I have midrail cleat that slides on the Genoa track that I keep on the boat for cruising. It is W.M. part number 1928787 on page 1054. I did not pay that price for mine. You might also look at the Genoa slides on page 1040. They are cheaper, but would serve the same purpose. Just put the rope loop in the slide rather than on the pile. When I tie up to a half dock I use 3 6x18 fenders hung vertically and if there are piles amidships I add a 8x24 hung horizontially at each pile. I will tie up with 3/8" lines of which I carry 4-20' for tieing to piles or cleats and 2-30' for springs. I also carry 2-8x24 fenders along with the 3-6x18's. Very seldom do I need the second 8x24, but if you need it once, it is cheap insurance.
Frank, I have always had a half slip, and mooring is not a major problem.
Two bow lines, one off each bow cleat.
One stern line, unless your half slip has a center post, then I'd use two stern lines.
These three or four lines need to be set up so that they hold the boat basically in position. In other words they are fairly short.
Next, I'd have two spring lines, as Clambeach described - one bow to midship, one midship to stern. The purpsoe of these lines is to hold the boat in position along the axis of the half slip, preventing the boat from moving to far forward or to far aft.
With this set up I generally find that boat is off the finger dock, but use three fenders to make sure that the hull does not rub the dock edge.
Have had a number of half slips. All suggestions are good. First put the heaviest padding you can afford along the edge of the dock, you may have to use tapcon screws if your dock is cement. Next if there is a piling, ride up and down with a fender board, simplest way is take a two by six, drill a half inch hole right through each end from top to bottom, pass a line through and tie a stopper knot each side, you can get as fancy as you like and varnish, put rubbing cleats on the outboard side, etc. Hang this overside with two goodsize fenders inboard of the fender board, you are now set to ride up and down your piling. If you have no piling you might be able to drive in a heavy pvc pipe, preferably doubled, into the bottom and fasten it to the pier, or whatever you havwe available, I have used galvanized pipe on occasion, depends on how heavy the surge, how high the tide range goes, etc etc, hope this helps, ron srsk Orion SW FL
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ronrryan</i> <br />Have had a number of half slips. All suggestions are good. First put the heaviest padding you can afford along the edge of the dock, you may have to use tapcon screws if your dock is cement. Next if there is a piling, ride up and down with a fender board, simplest way is take a two by six, drill a half inch hole right through each end from top to bottom, pass a line through and tie a stopper knot each side, you can get as fancy as you like and varnish, put rubbing cleats on the outboard side, etc. Hang this overside with two goodsize fenders inboard of the fender board, you are now set to ride up and down your piling. If you have no piling you might be able to drive in a heavy pvc pipe, preferably doubled, into the bottom and fasten it to the pier, or whatever you havwe available, I have used galvanized pipe on occasion, depends on how heavy the surge, how high the tide range goes, etc etc, hope this helps, ron srsk Orion SW FL <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I don't have a piling but you make it sound like I should want one. Is that what you are saying?
A couple of years ago the dock master our club had got a hitch up and decided to remove all the cleats and install rings, hate them and kept my good old horn cleats on. So He would have said
Tie on to the half slip with a half hitch.
What I did to help keep from bangin up my boat was make a bumper out of treated 2X4 and 3X3 stock. I have a front and side to my slip. The front is like the drawing the side is the same thing but the dock doesn't have an overhang.
Fhopper, pilings are not mandatory, by any means, but come in handy on occasion. I agree with Leon, as usual, that if your dockfinger is not now padded in any way, that maybe the first line of action. If you have a tidal range, ther needs to be some way to go up and down and still maintain the fenders, padding, etc. It is quite common, when cruising, to come across boaters who tie up, stick a fender or two betwixt the boat and dock, and go happily off to the bar, laundromat, etc. The tide goes up or down, the fender no longer has any use, being under, over, or beside the dock or piling, and the fiberglass repair guy is smiling through. A fender board, of course, needs to ride up and down on a piling or post, and the docklines (springs, etc) need to be adjusted so the boat cant go fore and aft enough to lose the fenderboard. The nice thing about making your own fenderboards, aside from the fact they can be danged cheap, is that you can make them as long or short as you want, to suit your slip, your "dumpster", or whatever. All I meant was, It is not rocketscience to drive a pipe down next to the dock and fasten it to the fingerpier IF you need it, fair winds, ron Orion SR SK SW FL
Hop, PS, if you are on a lake with no rise and fall of tide, then of course you just need good padding against wind action and a couple fat fenders for security, forgot to mention this, dont know if you are in fresh water or salt, god bless, ron
The important info is that the slip is 27' long with 4' between it and the space for the next boat on the end of the dock. The first cleat is 4' from the end of the finger, there is a mid dock cleat six feet past that and the other main cleat 10' on past that., (putting it 7' from the end of the slip at the walk-way).
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br />I went out to day...
The important info is that the slip is 27' long with 4' between it and the space for the next boat on the end of the dock. The first cleat is 4' from the end of the finger, there is a mid dock cleat six feet past that and the other main cleat 10' on past that., (putting it 7' from the end of the slip at the walk-way).<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
With your cleat setup, it looks like you'll have a very short after breast line between your stern cleat and the last dock cleat, a forward quarter spring line between your stern cleat and the midships dock cleat, after bow spring line between your bow cleat and the midships dock cleat, and a forward breast line between your bow cleat and the first dock cleat.
I would not tighten the docklines so your boat doesn't move, but instead leave it slack to allow the boat to move away from the dock. By playing with the breast line lengths, you can make it so your boat will only contact the dock somewhere around amidship where you'll have your fenders. In my half slip, I use two fenders on the dock at the midship pivot point. These two fenders are tied horizontally with an upper and lower fender about a foot apart. With these horizontal fenders, my boat can move up and down, yet at least one of these fenders protects the boat from the dock (I have to compensate for up to 2 foot seiches).
As for your slip being located at the end of the dock, I know a lot of people who fight for that spot because of the privacy (peace and quiet).
Are there any cleats or rings on the main dock? Maybe next to the finger, and another next to the four foot space between boats? If not can you put them in?
I've always had these and it makes to tie the boat off the finger.
Are there any cleats or rings on the main dock? Maybe next to the finger, and another next to the four foot space between boats? If not can you put them in?
I've always had these and it makes to tie the boat off the finger. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The end of the dock is a big T I have one finger of the T. The pictures show the cleats. Are you suggesting I add a cleat at the end of the walk way and at the end of the finger so that I have 5 cleats? It does bother me some that the cleats are within the distance created by my boat cleats, but I am beginning to fell better about the whole thing. And Don; yes, the end will be more private and that will be nice.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.