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 Head port cabin wall thickness?
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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/12/2004 :  17:14:54  Show Profile
I'm getting ready to install some new curtains I made on slide track. The slide track is 1/2" high and I need to screw it in to the cabin walls just above and below the head ports. Does anyone know the thickness of the cabin walls in these areas? And/or have suggestions on the size of screws to use?

Thanks for your help!

J.B. Manley s/v Sea Trac Allied Seawind II #65
DPO s/v Antares Catalina 25 #4849
Association Treasurer 2002 - 2006
Association Bookkeeper 2002 - 2008
Association Quartermaster 2004 - 2008

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2004 :  18:46:40  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Antares</i>
<br />...Does anyone know the thickness of the cabin walls in these areas? And/or have suggestions on the size of screws to use?

Thanks for your help!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

If memory serves me correctly, the interior liner is about 3/16" thick.

As for attaching screws, you may need to use a wall anchor so the screw gets a good grip. I remember mounting a table clamp to the interior liner and I inadvertently overtightened the screw(which took very little effort) and stripped out the hole.

I also need to mount some curtain rods in the head, but I'm leaning towards using some sort of adhesive (5200?) because of my aversion to poking new holes in things.

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Sea Trac
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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2004 :  09:43:27  Show Profile
Thanks for the info, Don. I thought there might be a problem here, and apparently there is. Perhaps the way to go is teak mounting strips and adhesive, then screw the slide track into the teak. That would also keep the curtains from resting on, and sliding over, the port frames and screw heads.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2004 :  12:19:52  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Antares</i>
<br />Thanks for the info, Don. I thought there might be a problem here, and apparently there is...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

J.B.,

Forgive me if I'm stating the obvious, but the 3/16" inner liner that I mentioned is followed by a small void, then the outside deck mold. This should give you plenty of space to put a small screw in without poking through to the outside. Just remember that you don't need a long screw (3/8" depending on your curtain mounting hardware) since the material you'll be screwing into is only 3/16" thick.





Edited by - dlucier on 04/13/2004 12:21:28
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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2004 :  14:22:18  Show Profile
Thanks for the additional info, Don. I'm as concerned about "bite", as you mentioned, as I am about going all the way through. Will have to noodle on it a bit before proceeding. Thanks again.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2004 :  20:51:22  Show Profile
JB,

I had custom brackets fabricated that attach to the window frame itself - fastened with one of the screws that hold the window frame in place. They have a "L" profile so as to position the curtain "rod" (I used ss wire) above and below the frame.

Good luck!

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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2004 :  23:06:19  Show Profile
Hi Steve,

I'm having a hard time visualizing your setup. Do you have pictures?

Right now I'm leaning toward 1/2" x 1/2" x 16" teak strips mounted 1/2" above and below the frames with adhesive and countersunk 3/4" screws (assuming the interior is 3/16", and the "gap" and the exterior can accommodate the 1/16"+ overage; which sounds plausible). Then the 3/8" slide track would be mounted to the 1/2" teak strips with countersunk 3/4" screws.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2004 :  21:50:19  Show Profile
I'm actually out of town so no photos.

Think of the upper leg of the "L" laying horizontal - attached to the upper portion of the portlite frame and the bottom leg of the "L" pointing straight up - that's where I attached the ss wire to act as the curtain rod. Same deal for the bottom rod - but pointing down.

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Jack Heaston
1st Mate

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48 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2004 :  22:31:47  Show Profile
Howdy
Hate to butt in here, but Catalina Direct (and maybe Butler & Co) sells the factory original SS clips for $0.30 each that are mounted via the screws in the non-opening ports. These clips accept the track (also available from CD, but with overlength UPS charges) into which slides the little plastic gizmos that are sewn into the curtains, and probably available nowhere, if you don't have the factory original curtains.
The clips have to be sprung a bit more open to accept the track.
Just another idea to consider.
Hope you have better with luck mounting your cutains than I've had with getting the live-in seamstress to sew the new ones.
Best regards,
Jack

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RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2004 :  01:10:34  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">the little plastic gizmos that are sewn into the curtains, and probably available nowhere<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I was missing a few of those, which made the curtains bag out a little. Based on the recommendation of some very helpful person on this forum several years ago, I loosely sewed on some very small buttons. At first they didn't quite fit in the track, but did so after a little filing of the sides of the buttons.


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Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2004 :  09:13:53  Show Profile
Something was bothering me about mentioning a liner here so I looked at the port light installation on my boat. The port lights are fastened to the deck. The construction there is; the interior fibergalss laminate - plywood core - outer fiberglass laminate, as one solid piece. The liner does not extend up that high. The liner stops at the hull to deck joint (if I thinking about the same liner you guys are). There should not be an air space around the port light.
Just thinking out loud here.
Dan

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2004 :  11:47:00  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Happy D</i>
<br />Something was bothering me about mentioning a liner here so I looked at the port light installation on my boat. The port lights are fastened to the deck. The construction there is; the interior fiberglass laminate - plywood core - outer fiberglass laminate, as one solid piece. The liner does not extend up that high. The liner stops at the hull to deck joint (if I thinking about the same liner you guys are). There should not be an air space around the port light...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

The liner I referred to, is the interior mold of the deck structure. Yes, there is a plywood core, but not in all places. When I pulled my aft windows (port lights), there was a small void instead of a core material.

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