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Hi Guys, Back on 7/30/03, Bill Holcomb described using the unused jib halyard for a cruising spinnaker by mounting a block on the most forward clevis pin on the mast cap. What block should I use? I have wire/rope halyards. Should the block be a swivel? The Harken #304 (1.5" Dia Block for 1/8" wire, page 1033 of West Marine cat) looks good and permits installing the block without having to cut the swaged end off the halyard. However, this is not a swivel block? I could add a double swivel shackle (page 1020) to the block. What has experience shown? Thanks in advance. Dan McFadden on Deo Gratias.
I'm not familiar with Bill's post on this but . . .
Many here are moving away from <i>wire</i> halyards so I'd be inclined to use a <i>rope</i> block. I wouldn't use swivel hardware as the halyard and sail might (in unusual circumstances) get twisted into one another while the sail is raised.
Are you planning on raising the crusing spinnaker with the jib or genoa still raised? If so, then I can see the need for a new block - else use the "unused" jib halyard as it is.
To: OJ Thanks for the reply. My forestay has a CDI Furler. My cruising spinnaker is an ATN (with a dousing sock) which has a bridle from the Tack around the furled Genoa, hence both sails will not be deployed at the same time. I understand the block reduces contact wear and prevents fouling between the spinnaker/sock and the top of the furler/headstay. I've been happy with the wire/rope halyard and didn't see the need for the expense of changing to all rope. Am I missing something? Dan McFadden on Deo Gratias
I believe that my thinking at the time of the 7/30/03 post was that the unused jib halyard was an all rope affair. Otherwise, some sort of snatch block with a sheave for wire rope would be in order.
My guess is that a snatch block for wire rope would be a "spendy" item. It would probably be less costly to simply rig a "normal" spinnaker halyard.
Bill Holcomb, To concert my unused jib halyard to a spinnaker halyard, involves the following: My "spendy" wire block referenced above, which permits side entry of the swaged wire, is $31.99. The only other item I'll need to add is a shackle (fixed or swivel) for $3-$13. Total cost is $35-$45. On the other hand, a rope halyard (Sta-Set Braid, 5/16" or 3/8") costs 50-75 cents a foot plus a block ($5-$10) for a total of $40-$63. Is there a problem using the rope/wire halyard with the wire block? Do I need a swivel shackle? Thanks, Dan McFadden
osmepneo has a spinniker halyard which is the one I use for my cruising chute. I also have cdi roller furler for the Jenny. Suspect I could use the jib halyard without much dysfunction.btw all my halyards are rope which reduces the chance of the spinniker catching a fraying wire.
I didn't realize that the wire blocks were that reasonable. Go for it.
As far as a swivel - yes, you'll probably want one. I use a chute scoop (sock) to douse my cruising chute. There is a swivel shackle as part of that system. When I jibe the cruising chute, it flies in front of the forestay. So, the swivel shackle helps keep things from getting wrapped up.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.