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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

interior teak

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cmckitrick
Navigator

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USA
119 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/04/2004 : 15:13:01

I have the pleasure, and I'm not being facetious, of restoring the exterior teak on my newly acquired '82 C 25. I am staring at the interior wood while taking breaks and wondering if the right approach for that is to sand off every bit of old varnish before applying new coats. Does anyone work on the cabin walls? I am guessing that is not solid teak. Thanks.

Charlie McKitrick
Norwell, MA
Valiant Lady... for now
'81 C 25 SR/FK

Edited by - on

dave holtgrave
Captain

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USA
427 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2004 : 16:11:24

there plywood on my 1988
check under the trim or inside a door or drawer
dave holtgrave
5722 sk/tr

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2004 : 16:27:00

"sand off every bit of old varnish"

I just make sure the surface is 'buffed up' before applying more finish. If you've got pinrails you're in for a lot of work if you intend to sand it all off...

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2004 : 16:39:50

I just oil the interior once a year.

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jtbarrett
1st Mate

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USA
60 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2004 : 17:44:34

Lemon oil seems to be the way to go inside the boat..sanding = big mess inside the boat.

Jonathan T Barrett
"Hang Loose"
82 SR SK #3047
http://www.ypyc.org

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trent
1st Mate

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USA
44 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2004 : 17:51:07

I've used teak cleaner and teak oil of a generic West Marine variety and it really spruces the place up down there.

I hadn't even considered Lemon Oil but that's what I use on my old Stratocaster. Does it do a better job than teak oil?

\trent

Edited by - on

oldsalt
Admiral

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USA
578 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2004 : 18:18:21

I use Starbrite Teak Oil on the interior teak every two years and I'm satisfied by the results.

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rglennchap
Deckhand

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USA
16 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2004 : 20:24:27

The finish on my interior teak looked rather "ashy" and a bit weathered when I purchased Escape a few years ago. The old gentleman I bought the boat from swore by "Howards Restore A Finish". I've used it twice in the last 3 years and have been very pleased with the results. Comes in various tones. My interior teak is a bit on the red side. Comes in walnut, oak, red oak, et al. I'll look for some before and after photos. May have to do the after photos this week end.

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CKidd
Deckhand

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7 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2004 : 20:54:53

I too am restoring a C25 and have been pondering the same thing. I removed and sanded all of the interior teak except the bulkheads and attemted at first to use lemon oil. It looked great at first with lemon oil, but soon you couldn't tell lemon oil had ever been applied. After 4 coats, I gave up and at the suggestion of a Marine West sales rep, I applied Marine West Golden Teak Oil. It does remain, but the look is much darker than with the lemon oil. Considering now whether to strip teal parts back down and try something else.

C Kidd

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2004 : 21:28:10

cmckitrick (and other interior teak refinishers),

I also plan to refinish all my 1979 C-25 interior teak one day. As an experiment, I stripped, sanded, and varnished a few small easily removable pieces. (Galley spice shelf and drawer assemblies, shelf over head sink, cushion fiddle rails, quarterberth bookshelf rail.) I really like the look of varnish down below. I think it will last a very long time out of the weather. As for the pin rails, I removed them from the boat and gently pried them apart into individual pieces (long sticks and chess pawns). I then sanded the pins while spinning them in a makeshift lathe. I reassembled the rails with Elmer's type carpenter's glue clamped with either spring clamps or rubber bands (can't remember now). After the glue set, I carefully aplied three or four coats of high-build varnish to the pinrail assemblies and other stripped and sanded parts. I'm very pleased with the results, and plan to continue using that approach on the rest of the interior woodwork. I will remove as many parts for refinishing as possible for neatness and thorough access. Since it only takes a week or so of evenings to refinish a small batch of interior parts, it shouldn't result in much down time. The boat can still be sailed with many of the smaller teak bits removed.

While I had the galley drawer assemblies out, I saturated and reglued them with epoxy. They were in rough shape from water leaks and non-marine staples. The drawers are now so waterproof they could be used as wash tubs.

One exception to the varnish plan: I used Silkens Cetol Marine on the stairs because those do get some weather exposure when the companionway is open. I removed the stairs assembly for refinishing while the boat was hauled out, but didn't further disassemble it into individual sticks of wood while refinishing.

-- Leon Sisson

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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2004 : 22:03:21

Leon, perhaps you'd answer a question I've always had. When the wood is removed and finished, the bungs have to be replaced and cut or sanded down when the piece is reinstalled. How do you then handle the varnish touch up so it matches what you've already done?

Thanks,

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3323 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2004 : 23:41:52

I've used Howard's Restor-a-Finish on the interior teak ever since Ken Cave recommended it a year or two ago (thanks Ken!

). It is sooo quick & easy to apply, and smells nice too! I use the golden oak tone.
I appreciate Leon's perfectionistic approach - but, man, that's way too much work! (It's my KISS principle kicking in...

)
Derek

Edited by - on

frogger
Navigator

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USA
184 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2004 : 09:23:55

I like Derek's KISS approach. I use only teak oil and reapply yearly or "as needed." When necessary, I still use oxalic acid for cleaning and restoring my teak. I do not use anything with any coloring agents.

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John J.
Navigator

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USA
157 Posts

Response Posted - 05/06/2004 : 04:55:04

I often read about Howard's restore-a-finish on the forum. Does it leave a gloss or matte finish?

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 05/06/2004 : 22:01:28

J.B. Manley,<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">When the wood is removed and finished, the bungs have to be replaced and cut or sanded down when the piece is reinstalled. How do you then handle the varnish touch up so it matches what you've already done?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">I don't remember actually having had to deal with that, but I won't let such a lack of relevant experience stop me from making up an answer.

After installing and shaving down the new bung, I'd use fine sandpaper and a sanding block to final shape the bung and feather the surounding varnish. Then I'd reapply fresh varnish to the sanded area. Once the desired buildup had been accomplished, I'd level the surface with very fine sandpaper, and apply a final coat of heavily diluted varnish to restore the surface gloss without leaving a big step at the wet edge.

-- Leon Sisson

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jon
Deckhand

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9 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2004 : 12:25:59

While engaged in restoring a burned C-25, I have had to pull out all the wood and found that all bulkheads are 1/2" teak ply, good both sides and costly. But whats really hard to find is the "batting" for the hull-bulkhead interface. Anybody have a 100' or so?

Edited by - on

svmoxie
Past Commodore

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USA
331 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2004 : 09:32:56

cmckitrick,

You don't want to sand off all of the finish before you reapply the finish because you will sand right through the face veneer on the bulkheads and it is pretty messy to do on the boat. If you are going to use oil or a restorer you should just clean it well with acetone. If you have existing varnish or you want to use varnish then you should strip the old finish off. A good heat gun and a scraper is your first choice or a chemical stripper can be used. If you go the chemical stripper route CitriStrip is the stuff to use.

There is so much involved with this process that it is well worth having a good manual. Here is a great one that I highly recommend:

ISBN # 0071422773

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2004 : 09:54:50

"you should just clean it well with acetone"

Common sense reminder... FerGawdSakes whatever you do, don't use acetone inside the boat unless you have some hurricane strength fans moving air... ditto for any area. Also beware of 'sneaky' chemicals inside confined areas. Epoxy paints, finishes, common cleaning solvents (yada) can turn really nasty without adequate air flow.

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svmoxie
Past Commodore

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USA
331 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2004 : 09:56:54

Excellent reminder Bruce, thanks for posting!

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frogger
Navigator

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USA
184 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2004 : 17:13:51

Acetone is an excellent solvent/remover for certain types of glue, etc. - using Q-tip amounts. It is extremely explosive and should not be used where it (vapors) coud be ignited by sparks, flame, or electric motors running. Use plenty of ventilation - use outside if possible. Actually, it's the main ingredient in old formula of fingernail polish.

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