Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hello Mates, Guess what I found below the starboard cushion my '85 C-25? New teak parts, all about! Finishing will prove no problem, but mounting the rails...what sequence would you suggest? The bolt-throughs,then the screws? Or, start at one end, then sequence down its'length...screw...bolt...screw...bolt(?) I'm light on experience when it comes to bending teak. I know, it shows. What say you? Thanks!
Hi Bill... Are the bolts installed with the holes already plugged on top? If they aren't already plugged, I suggest pouring just a little epoxy onto the bolt heads to prevent them from turning when you tighten nuts from below. In any case, insert the bolts through the cabin top first to establish the bend. Before you do, put some 3M 4200 or similar non-adhesive caulk on the bottom of each "foot" of the rails--around the bolts and the screw holes. Bend the rails as necessary to push the bolts down through the top, finger-tighten the nuts, and then lightly screw the other feet down from below--just enough to begin to squeeze the caulk out from under the feet. Let the caulk set for a day or more, and then tighten the nuts and screws somewhat. If you crank the nuts too hard, you might break the bolt heads loose inside the rails so that you can no longer tighten or even loosen the nuts, so don't overdo it. You just want a little pressure on the caulk "gasket" under each foot. If you have a pop-top, the whole operation is easy from inside the cabin.
Thanks Dave, I needed to hear your suggestion on the bolt head. My plan was to drill for the bolts, and then cap the holes...without the epoxy. You have my attention! Thanks, Bill Bilbrey
I just refinished my teak that formerly had cetol regular. It was the usual "orangeish" color. I sanded down to bare wood and used Cetol LIGHT so more of the wood grain would show thruough. Then I used Cetol GLOSS on top. Highly recommended because the gloss really shines. The gloss makes it look like nice shiny varnish. The maintenance is the same (as Cetol without the Gloss coat), namely in a year I need to clean and lightly scrub with a green scrubbing cloth (kitchen variety) and re-coat with the Cetol Gloss. If you want an even glossier finish, you can sand (lightly) with 300+ grit (I forget exactly what's recommended maybe 350??) and apply another gloss coat. I probably WILL sand and apply another Gloss coat. After all I do have a whole quart can and there's not that much teak.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.