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Catalina 25 Specific Forum

How to steer with your sails

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Luckenbach
1st Mate

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USA
29 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/18/2004 : 21:22:43

I hesitate to mention this, as there are a lot of IF's involved. But you can set your boat to sail a point of sail, even change course by itself when you get a windshift. I have done it often on a Catalina 22 and it does work. On my Flying Scot I don't need the bungees, I just tie the tiller down. I don't completely trust it, you can set it for one windspeed and then when the windspeed changes it stops working, but to give myself some time off the tiller temporarily it can work great. My record is a close reach for an hour on Lake Buchanan, and I just stopped because I wanted to turn around.

IF the wind is 10-15 knots.
IF the windspeed doesn't change a lot.
IF you want a beam or close reach.
IF you can set your sails just right.

Use two 24 inch bungee cords and two pieces of 10 gauge solid strand insulated copper wire. Tie the ends of the wire to the post of the stern pulpit abeam of the forward end of the tiller. Afix the ends of the bungee cords to the end of the tiller, and make loops in the wires for the other end of the bungee so the tiller will be near the center. I made several loops so I could adjust the tension on the bungees and position of the tiller by putting the ends in a different loop. Thus the tiller would be held in the proper position, BUT WITH SOME GIVE in both directions.

To set the sails, get on the course you want and set the sails properly, so they are both producing maximum power. Then overtighten the jib somewhat, you have to experiment to get it right, but you want it stalled a little. If you have tell tales the ones on the front of the sail will stop their staight backwards position and do funny things. Also loosen the mainsheet just a tad, so you have some luff. Yes, set the jib too tight and the main too loose.

Now try to tie the tiller with the bungees to maintain this course, and instead of "course" think "point of sail". From a beam to close reach is the only place I could make it work reliably.

What happens: Sailing along, you have the normal weather helm pulling the tiller to leeward, but you set the bungees to maintain the course, so the tiller is slightly to windward. The jib is slightly stalled and the main is luffing a little.

1. Wind shifts to beam:
If the wind shifts slightly to beam (a lift), the main, which was a little loose, is now set for more power! the boat heels more(remember, we had a slight luff), causing more weather helm. The jib stalls even more, which also makes the boat want to turn upwind. This we usually notice as an increase on tiller pressure as the boat heels over. The windward bungee stretches from this increased pressure and the tiller goes to leeward, adding to the heeling hull's desire to head up. The boat turns to windward. As she heads up, the main starts luffing again, as she heels less the rudder comes back to windward by the bungees. If she turns upwind just a little more, the previously stalled jib comes into the position for max power and helps stop the windward turn. As the jib pulls the bow down wind, it stalls again.

Wind shifts ahead (a header): As the wind shifts ahead, the main luffs even more and the jib goes from stalled to max power, pulling the bow downwind (bears off). Also, as the main loses power the boat heels less and two things happen. The tiller moves slightly more to windward and more of the windward hull is in the water, both help the jib bear off. As it bears off, the jib stalls again and the main comes back up to power, stopping the turn.

It's really quite fun to try, but remember if the windspeed changes your tiller and sail settings will be wrong! You can have it set perfect and then move to the other side of the boat and it won't be just right anymore. It's just a way to give your arm a rest, not a way to leave the cockpit for extended periods. However, I have done it and then gone to the bow, making minor course corrections by standing on the windward or leeward sides of the bow.

Tying the tiller with two bungees makes it work infinitely better, because it allows the boat to move the tiller by itself. This method will sometimes work with the tiller tied firmly in position, but not nearly as well.

David Luckenbach

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2004 : 21:56:01

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Luckenbach
 ...I have done it and then gone to the bow, making minor course corrections by standing on the windward or leeward sides of the bow.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I stand in awe!

Don't hesitate again, David! The principles you describe are similar to heaving to, and are also the same as I used on a model sailboat many, many years ago. It would sail for a mile across the lake until I chased it down with a power boat. (No radio controls.)

A variation on this, also using bungee cord and presumably compatible with your strategy is to fix the cord to positions aft of the midpoint of the tiller and wrap it about three times around the tiller with some slack. To use it as a "tiller pilot", pull the wraps forward on the tiller to tension the bungee, and then turn the wraps on the tiller to adjust the setting until you achieve a steady course. Your sail trim technique should then apply. To ease the tiller pilot, push the wraps aft on the tiller to slack the bungee.

When I move to Mystic, I'll have to be careful not to fall asleep with this--I could end up on a beach in Africa!

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PZell
Admiral

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USA
548 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2004 : 14:54:54

I use a similar method. Have a eyebolt that fits in a hiking stick fitting at the end of the tiller. Run a continuous line thru that over to stanchions on either side. At the stanchions have a bungee cord in a loop. Line goes thru those loops on both sides and is tied back on itself with taut line hitches (rolling hitches). Tiller is now adjustable and has a little play from the bungees. The line can be tightened or loosened quickly as necessary, or the whole thing can be lifted off the tiller for manual control in an instant. As mentioned above the sails need to be set just so and it works great on a close reach or close hauled.

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.