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 Where are the vented loops ??? Help I'm sinking...		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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Sid
Navigator

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129 Posts
Response Posted - 02/15/2005 :  14:51:32  Show Profile
My 77 C25 hull #21 had a factory installed head with overboard discharge only. The PO installed a holding tank in the forward port settee (dinette option). The head intake is in the same location, not under the vberth. Keeping the seacocks closed while underway has prevented any water intrusion, and the discharge remains closed as I am slipped on an inland lake.
Sid
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oldsalt
Admiral

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USA
578 Posts
Response Posted - 02/16/2005 :  21:41:51  Show Profile
Mark, I had a problem with the original electric bilge pump set up which was installed when I had my boat comissioned. The installer set up the discharge hose so that it sloped slightly down from the through hull mounted on the port hull a few inches below the deck. Although the discharge outlet was usually well above the waterline, it did at times become submerged and I occasionally took on water.

The solution was to reinstall the bilge pump hose to the outlet with a loop that always stayed above the waterline. No water has entered since because water won't run "uphill". A vent isn't needed in the loop since the bilge pump through hull is well above the waterline which breaks the syphon when the pump shuts down so long as the outlet is above the waterline.

As for your marine head; a 1 1/2" vented loop will set you back 30 bucks but the peace of mind is priceless. You need one. The joker valve in the head is there to direct the flow of water when you operate the pump. It isn't designed to be a check valve for the exterior discharge hose nor is it a safety device. You also need a proper seacock on the head discharge through hull which should be closed if you won't be using the head for some time.
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JoergK
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USA
140 Posts
Response Posted - 02/17/2005 :  15:47:09  Show Profile
Re: Flooding - I have a Y-valve directing flow from head to either the tank or to the outside. To avoid backflow from holding tank in severe conditions I'd turn the Y to "outside" but have the seacock closed. Of course the intake valve under the V-berth also is closed. No flow from nothing.
My '86 C25 came with overboard discharge, and a masthead anchor light.
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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts
Response Posted - 02/18/2005 :  10:01:07  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
I'm no expert, but I don't think vented loops were required back (not code, not the norm etc ) in the early 80's. Very much the same way that the gate valves used on the to-hull fittings are no longer the norm or 'code". I think that the hose looped up above the waterline before going back down and out was all that was required (again not positive, just a hunch so don't crucify me). Not to say that they aren't a good idea. At any rate, follow clams advice regarding through hulls.

As for the pump switch - you may also need to turn it off if your out of the water, or if the pump is shorting out and draining your battery or any number of reasons. None of my pumps are automatic bilge pumps - so I need an off so I don't burn it out.

Your all around anchor light should be at the top of the mast. I believe this was standard equipment. If yours isn't working, or not there, the portable batter powered light will do the trick hoisted on a halyard. At least that will work till you can rewire or install one. One word of advice, attach a line to pull her back down in the morning just in case it gets caught up.
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.