Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Matt and I have been slow on the photo posting skill and Mark Maxwell was kind enough to send me blow by blow directions on how to it. So hopefully you will be able to see Yahoo sitting in Sydney, Vancouver Island. If not just use your imagination.<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2da25b3127cce9d6f980242880000004010" border=0> OK, I see by the preview that you need a magnifying glass to see. Next problem to solve.
Ed Montague on 'Yahoo' 1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~
Hi Ed, Well your on the right track. <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle> All you did was put the link to the thumbnail picture. If you want the big one just double click it. Then do everything the same way as you did this time and the larger picture will show up like this. <img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2da25b3127cce9d6f980242880000004410" border=0> Have Fun.
ps. Nice looking boat <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>
Ya, Ed--especially compared to the one in front of you! I particularly like your stern rail, and need to modify mine in about the same way. Is there any particular reasoning on how high the new, lower cross-bar between the transom stanchions should be (or how low it can be)? Is there any bow (toward the stern) in your new cross-bar? Who did the modification? (Not that I'll be able to get that person to do mine in CT...)
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT
Thanks again Mark!!!<img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>
Dave, to do this stern rail change you will need a good hack saw or 4" angle grinder with a cut off disk. You will also need to purchase two SS el's and two SS t's of the proper size to match your pulpit tubing. I can't remember the tube size off hand. First, you cut the top rail section between the two rear vertical peices out. This peice will be used later. You will need to trim the junction left back just far enough to allow the SS el's to be put on creating a nice clean connection. You then decide where you want to place the cross bar down between the verticals and cut the verticals accordingly. This is where the SS t's are placed. The new (old) cross peice goes between. These SS fittings can be purchased at WM or other marine supply. They have allen screws to hold them onto the tubing. I cranked them down hard and used a little epoxy. This didn't hold too well so I tack welded them. The lower cross bar allows me to use the stern ladder without the either stooping or climbing. The stern ladder is a secondary ladder. The whole project took about 45 minutes not including dragging out the wire welder.
Ed Montague on 'Yahoo' 1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~
Hi Ed, The photos look great. I just got the ones I took of Don Pedro today and I have been trying to think of the best way to get copies to you. If you would like I can snail mail them to you, send me the address. Or you can wait a little while because as I logged on to compuserve today they offered a flatbed scanner for 4 easy payments of $24.99 and Brigitte said "go ahead". We did go antiquing today and she may be feeling a little guilty. I got a couple of good panarama shots showing your marina and one of the rain bombarding the water and us. Is there any way I could persuade Marke to send me the blow by blow description on how to get the photos lined up? After seeing the nice finish you had on your teak I picked up a little of the cetol at west marine (took the vet with the top down, nice sun burn), also got a cheak block to set up a new outhaul. As I took the hatch rails off to do a better job I found that one lip was almost all the way busted off. Got out the grinder and fiberglass and fixed. Well have to put a little on the other side of the layer still. Two boats on the water at our lake so I hope to be out there pronto.
Nice shot of the autopilot. I just received mine from Sailnet yesterday and I'm still on cloud nine. Question, What's that blue cover with wires coming from it underneath the tiller? Compass? Nice pics!
Don, The blue cover protects my fishfinder/depth finder. I like this location, it's out of the way and easy to see. The wiring runs into the lazzarett. I will probably go through the liner just behind the unit into the space between the liner and transom next time I replace it. My puck is mounted to shoot through the hull under the forward area of the quarter berth.
Hi Ed, I would like to read that article on the folding tiller, but its too small, and unclear. Printing it out didn't help either. Also, why did you mount your autopilot on the portside? I've done all the wiring for my autohelm, and am about ready to install it.
I, too, just received my autopilot and I've been debating the pros and cons of a port or starboard mount. Of the photos I've seen, and it makes sense, the autopilot has been mounted on the side of the cockpit opposite of the motor. If you are using the autopilot while motoring, adjustments can be made to the motor(speed direction), without tripping over the autopilot.
Don, My motor is on the starboard side and the autohelm (called Scotty) is on the port side. You are correct, the autohelm will be in the way of the motor controls if the two are on the same side.
Doug, I have e mailed a copy of the article to you. I think that it will be too big this time.
Dave, Do you need a commercial fishing license to gather lobster in this manner?
Don and Ed, Of course, autopilot opposite the motor...it makes sense. I lucked out; my motor is on the portside(which I understand is not the best for weight distribution)and I had already wired my autohelm for the starboard side. Now, I just have to decide how I want to mount it. Ed, yours is up higher than others I've seen photo's of, but it looks good and sturdy...oh, and thanks for the tiller article.
Yes, and I used Albert's idea of using the coaming box for sockets. I just need to decide if I want to shell out another $60 for the cantilever bracket, or try and mount using the pin included with the unit, and put it on top of the coaming. But then, I guess I need an extension on the autohelm pushrod...decisions, decisions...
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.