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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Tohatsu 9.8

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Dan86
Navigator

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130 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/22/2005 : 22:30:07

Finally got my tohatsu installed on the boat, after two attempts at shipping resulted in the motors being destroyed during transit. Tohatsu stepped up and delivered by tohatsu truck within a week when I was told they were going to be backordered for 6 weeks. Gotta like that. I now have the motor hanging on the bracket and used a house battery that I moved into the cockpit, just to hear it run and begin the break in period. Does anyone have a pic of how to mount the wires through the transom. Leon used a trolling motor fitting, and recommended a through hull. Please, post any pics of your arrangement to assist in the installation. Also, does it make sense to put a small starter battery in the lazarette ( I would have to fabricate) or is going to house battery better. Thanks again. Whew, long question, sorry.

Dan

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 04/22/2005 : 22:46:51

If you don't have a dual house battery bank then that is where you should invest in a second battery. The engine does not need its own starting battery. If you are away from a charging source for a while you can always rope start to save house battery. I doubt the new engine takes make to start it. If you had an inboard a starting battery would be more important. I run my wires through the scupper into the fuel locker and to terminal posts on the common wall between the fuel locker and the sail locker.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 04/22/2005 : 23:01:46

Dan,<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Leon used a trolling motor fitting, and recommended a through hull.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Actually, Leon used a thru-hull and said a trolling motor fitting sounded like a promising possibility. I have terminal posts in the cockpit locker, much as Frank described.

I installed a separate cranking battery, but my Yamaha outboard doesn't have a recoil starter. I agree that if you have the option of easily rope starting, then put your battery money into a larger house bank. (My house bank is two group-27s.)

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 04/22/2005 : 23:08:43

I have a tohatsu 8 with electric start. I removed the single 24 series battery that came stock on the boat and replaced it with 2 27 series deep cycle batteries. I use for house and starting.

Edited by - Tom Potter on 04/22/2005 23:09:52

Designwiz
1st Mate

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USA
59 Posts

Response Posted - 04/24/2005 : 22:56:13

I'm Curious as to how you got two number 27 batteries in your boat. Did you not use battery boxes for them? I have two group 24's in battery boxes and it is TIGHT.

Edited by - Designwiz on 04/24/2005 22:57:11

lcharlot
Master Marine Consultant

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Antigua and Barbuda
1301 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2005 : 08:29:53

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Designwiz
 I'm Curious as to how you got two number 27 batteries in your boat.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I also tried to put two Group 27's in "Quiet Time" and found that the battery box would have to be at least a couple of inches longer. I had to settle for a Group 24 plus a Group 27. I have my motor power cable run through a hole in the transom direct to the primary battery isolation switch. I have seen some postings about corroded transom plugs causing starter motor failures (or even electrical fires) due to the high current flow in the starter circuit, so I decided to stay away from any kind of plug or connector that would be exposed to the elements.

[q]
after two attempts at shipping resulted in the motors being destroyed during transit.
[/q]

How were the motors "destroyed"?!? Outboard motors are too heavy for FedEx or UPS, and have to be shipped Motor Truck Freight, so they are packed in pretty sturdy shipping cartons with a lot of "crush speace" around the carton to absorb damage before the motor itself gets hit by something falling on the box. Just curious by what you mean when you say the motors were destoyed during shipping.

Edited by - lcharlot on 04/25/2005 08:35:14

Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2005 : 14:28:33

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Designwiz Posted - 04/24/2005 : 22:56:13
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm Curious as to how you got two number 27 batteries in your boat. Did you not use battery boxes for them? I have two group 24's in battery boxes and it is TIGHT.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

On the 250 there is a ton of room behind the rear berth where the original 24 battery is located. Some people have removed the existing battery tray to make room for their battery upgrades. I did not want to destroy the existing battery tray, so I mounted a piece of wood large enough to hold the two 27's to the top of the existing glassed in battery tray. Then mounted 2 new battery hold downs to the wood. It came out more sturdy than I expected. I'll try to get some pictures next time I'm down on the boat.

Edited by - on

mwalkup
1st Mate

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USA
79 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2005 : 15:47:02

Dan, I'm with you on this subject. I too just purchased a Tohatsu 9.8 long shaft motor as well as a new Garhauser motor mount.
I've now finished the break in period.
I went back and forth trying to decide the best way to connect the cable for the electric start. It was about eight feet to short to run from the motor to the battery compartment under the starboard setee.
I did not want to run the cable through the scupper, but Frank's way has merit and is very straight forward with no holes in the hull.
So after I beefed up the support under my motor mount with Starboard material and a couple of the stainless steel brackets salvaged from my old mount. I used an 1 1/8" keyhole bit and drilled a hole through the transom even with cable on the motor, when the mount is in the up position.
I too am not fond of putting holes in my boat, however this one was worth it I felt.
I then installed a rubber grommet I purchased from an auto parts store(used for PVC vaules) in the hole, this has an opening just big enough for the #6 cable to go thru and still be pretty much waterproof.
Then following Leon's previuos post & timley advise, I bought a trolling motor connector. Cut the round battery terminals off and attached the cable from the motor to the male end. Then the same bit will make an entry for the female end of the connector on the small shelf in the back of the quarter berth.
I had a tough time trying to find the right size wire that was flexible enough in the right gauge, to run from the female end of the connector to the battery. Needed it to be eight feet or so.
Then a guy at an auto parts store reccomended using a #6 jumper cable with the ends removed. I ran that under the shelf through the storage area under the quarter berth, to the wall of the battery area, a small hole then allows for the wire to go directly to the battery.
One last detail, it's also recommended that a 25 amp fused be attached to the cable, to protect the motor, I found this at circuit city in the car stereo dept.
I just liked the idea of my cable and connector out of the way, and run directly to the battery.
I really like me motor, and onlineoutboards.com as recommended here by a number of folks, sent it quickly, motor freight undamaged.
Best of luck.
Mike
83 tr/fk

Edited by - on

Dan86
Navigator

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130 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2005 : 18:23:09

Larry, the first motor was shipped, and the cowling was cracked and the end of the tiller handle was broken off. The box was pretty beat up on arrival. Similarly, the replacement was shipped and arrived with the box again torn up. The dealr said the first was shipped UPS and was filing a claim, the other was fed ex and they are too filing a claim. Could be dealer speak, however, I saw the first as the box was opened.

Mike, where did you put the 25 amp fuse and what style did you use. This sounds like a great way to do it. Also, when you say rubber grommet, I am not getting a visual

, can you describe a little further for me, thanks, Sorry for being not so visual. Your advice is also appreciated. Danny

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 04/26/2005 : 00:19:08

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I'm Curious as to how you got two number 27 batteries in your boat.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I know the C-25 and the C-250 have very different battery storage arrangements. I get the impression that even different year C-25s came with their batteries in different lockers, not to mention what modifications have been made since they were new. In my 1979 swing keel dinette model, I crammed two group-27s in battery boxes under the stbd settee. However I first removed the stock water tank, moved the head sink drain thru-hull forward several inches, and installed a custom-built 16-gal water tank. Even now the two group-27 battery boxes are a real tight fit. I have to remove the fwd battery and its box, and then slide the aft one forward, to check/add battery water. The C-25 owners with the batteries in the aft dinette locker are thinking "two group 27 boxes -- what's the problem?"

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...where did you put the 25 amp fuse...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">If it was me, I'd locate the elec-starter fuse as close to the battery as practical to minimize the length of unprotected high-current battery leads. And if you can start your motor with less than 25A, consider yourself lucky.

My Yamaha 4-stroke needs at least 50.A on a good day. (specs: 0.6KW/12.V=50.A)

If you are choosing over-current protection close to your anticipated maximum normal current draw, I'd suggest the protection be readily accessable, whether it's a fuse or a circuit breaker. And if it is a fuse, keep a bunch of them handy! You might consider going with heavier than minimum size battery cables and current protection to minimize cranking voltage drop, and to allow a large over-current safety margin without risk of cooking wiring inside the boat if a starter motor stalls or shorts at a current just a little less than that which would open the fuse or circuit breaker. But then, I'm "Mister Overkill", especially with electrics.

I'm glad to hear the trolling motor connector is working out as a quick disconnect for elec-start motors. I'd like to switch to that from the terminal posts I'm using now.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

mwalkup
1st Mate

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USA
79 Posts

Response Posted - 04/26/2005 : 09:50:38

A wiring diagram in the back of the Tohatsu owners manual recommends a 25 amp fuse, so I guess thats what I'll use for now.
From what I've gathered the fuse should be as close to the battery as possible. I did use a circuit breaker that has terminal post. The problem I ran into was finding the right size connectors for the #6 gauge wire to connect to the circuit breaker.If they fit the wire the hole on the end was to large, one could use washers I suppose, however I found the right size at a circuit city car stereo dept. it seems they use alot of heavier wire and connectors when installing car units.
They also had a nifty 25 amp enclosed connector that somehow snapped onto your wires or something. I didn't really check it out since I had already purchased a circuit breaker from an auto supply store, I just needed the right size connectors.
I have one new deep cycle battery that I'm hoping my motors alternator will keep me charged on my daysailing with the occasional overnighter.

Edited by - on

mwalkup
1st Mate

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USA
79 Posts

Response Posted - 04/26/2005 : 11:24:19

Dan, I forgot to add, that on this forum page 10 there are some great pictures that should help you. We owe a debt of graditude and a thank you to Frog0911 for the visual..
They're under "conecting motor" my post mwalkup.
Topic ID 8562 and Topic ID 6810
The grommet I was speaking of earlier is made of rubber and found in an auto parts store, where they have PVC valves. The grommets are used as seals for the vaives. Once I drilled the 1 1/2" hole in the top of the transom, this grommet fit over the hole. I sealed it with GM5200. I have no intention of removing or replacing my electric start configuration, as long as I own this boat. I think it's the best set up for me anyway.

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Dan86
Navigator

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130 Posts

Response Posted - 04/26/2005 : 22:55:09

Mike, thanks for the direction to the previous post. I knew I had seen it but it did not pop up on search. Frog has a great set up. Thanks again. Hope to get it done this weekend. Danny

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