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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 Catalina 25 Specific Forum
 Rope Clutches		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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swarchitect
1st Mate

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USA
41 Posts
Initially Posted - 06/06/2005 :  16:57:57  Show Profile  Visit swarchitect's Homepage
I just purchased some rope clutches in order to run my halyards aft to the cockpit. The maufacturer calls for 1/4" pan head screws to install them. I am intending to install them between the edge of the pop-top and the grab rails. Can anyone tell me how long the screws shuold be to get a good grip without coming through the headliner?
Scott Webb
LeHannah, #3134
Standard rig, fixed keel
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Daniel
1st Mate

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78 Posts
Response Posted - 06/06/2005 :  17:17:07  Show Profile
The screws on my (Garhauer) clutches extend through the headliner and have a backing plate beneath.
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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3324 Posts
Response Posted - 06/06/2005 :  17:33:44  Show Profile
Scott, my clutches are thru'bolted into the cabin top - I'm not sure that just screws will take the potential load. The cabin top is thick enough that I did not feel a backing plate was necessary.
Derek
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tcox
1st Mate

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USA
32 Posts
Response Posted - 06/06/2005 :  17:44:41  Show Profile
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I don't think I would rely on wood screws into the pop-top to secure your clutches. There could be significant stress on the halyard, and it might pull the screws from the top. I would go through the headliner and use a backing plate of thin stainless steel or aluminum. You could use some "acorn" nuts inside to minimize the danger of getting hurt on the screws.

As far as length, there must be some differences in the pop-top thickness. I just installed the Catalina Direct power lift, and they sent short screws and longer screws, with the instruction to use the correct ones for my top. Neither was anywhere near long enough. And, there is nothing wrong with my top such as swelling or de-lamination. The screws were just too short. My point is, drill one hole through and stick something in it to measure before you buy the screws. I am not certain any of us can tell you exactly how long your scres will need to be.

Terry


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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts
Response Posted - 06/06/2005 :  18:15:04  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
Scott,

I thru-bolted my cabin top line clutches. I used stainless steel fender washers, lock washers, and acorn nuts to spread the load on the headliner. I can assure you there is no one right length for the bolts. I had to use a variety of lengths, some custom cut to fit. The "thickness" of the deck and headliner stack does not seem to be at all consistant in these boats.

If you are absolutely determined not to have nuts sticking through the headliner, I suggest you use the cast epoxy female machine threads method described in WEST books and literature. I would not use sheetmetal screws into fiberglass or anything else for any significant loads. (And halyard loads can be quite significant.)

I didn't have room for the triple clutches and winches between the pop-top and the cabin top handrails on my 1979 C-25, so I moved the handrails forward a lot, and outboard a bit.

-- Leon Sisson
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roberoo
Navigator

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USA
182 Posts
Response Posted - 06/06/2005 :  21:05:32  Show Profile  Visit roberoo's Homepage
TCOX:

I am about to install my Power lift top before I step my mast tommorow. Is there any issues you ran into that I can avoid?

Thanks
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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts
Response Posted - 06/06/2005 :  23:46:35  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
Powerlift clutches, winch, its all there.

The short screws for the powerlift are for the dog clips.
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pjeffarch
Navigator

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USA
135 Posts
Response Posted - 06/06/2005 :  23:51:45  Show Profile
Scott: My clutches have through bolts too - with washers and nuts only, and do fine - it works for me, and I'm an architect, so it should work for you too!

Paul Jeffrey
pjeffarch
www.bvh.com
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tcox
1st Mate

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USA
32 Posts
Response Posted - 06/07/2005 :  12:59:55  Show Profile
Bob,

There was really no negative issues while installing the power lift, other than the screws being too short. The kit contains screws for the dog clips, which are short wood screws. It also has two sets of screws to thru-bolt the lift cylinder mounts. Neither of these sizes were near long enough for my top. Pay close attention to the pre-load on the top, and be certain that you put blocks at the front of the pop-top before you attempt to test the lift. The top will try to go beyond it's normal travel and without the mast to stop it you will have the potential of some damage. I used stacks of 2x4's about 18 inches long, similar to what the instructions called for, and I am very glad they were in place.

Terry
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GeorgeB
1st Mate

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90 Posts
Response Posted - 06/07/2005 :  15:15:27  Show Profile
I used through bolts in the cabin top, along with an aluminum backing plate. There was enough difference in the thickness of the cabin top that I had to use different length bolts between front and rear of the clutch.
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swarchitect
1st Mate

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USA
41 Posts
Response Posted - 06/07/2005 :  16:08:47  Show Profile  Visit swarchitect's Homepage
Responses & Pictures in 24 hours. This forum is great. Based on the advice, I am planning to use thru-bolts. Thanks all.
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Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1773 Posts
Response Posted - 06/07/2005 :  16:26:21  Show Profile
Hi Scott,

My boat has a triple rope clutch through-bolted in almost exactly the same spot as Frank's above. The PO who installed the clutch used bolts that were over an inch too long ... all that extra hardware protruding into the cabin looked awful

I built a coffee cup hanger from some scrap teak pieces, hardwood dowels, and carabiners, and I mounted it to the protruding bolts ... now all that stuff is out of sight.

Anyway, I concur that through-bolting is the way to go, and SS washers seem to be plenty adequate if you don't want to go through the trouble of making a backing plate.

Good luck!
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