Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've finished mine with 3 coats of regular cetol followed up with 2 coats of cetol gloss. Beautifull and the grain shows very well.
Turk
P.s. Don't forget - no paint brushes - use foam brushes for a bubble free finish (yep, that's not dust, it's bubbles created by regular paint brushes).
Second and third the motion for Cetol . . . applied it last year to the exterior teak and hatch boards . . . just used it on the tiller. Great finish and it will last. I use better grade brushes and don't have any issues with bubbles.
I have to agree with Frank. Polyurethane displays the grain much better than Cetol (which I had used the previous time on my tiller) I sanded it down to bare wood 5 years ago and applied several coats of polyurethane and it still looks gorgeous! Derek
I like the boat to look nice, but I've never figured on entering her in a boat show... so I go with a finish that's easy to maintain. There's not a drop of varnish on her.
Polyurethane would probably work just as well on the tiller.
Excellent input everyone. There were mentions of polyurethane sprayed on and others that did not mention. Would the brush-on work as well? Will also consider the Cetol since I want to do my hatch boards, hatch railings and handrails.
I've found that several very light coats of Cetol provides better clarity to the finish . . . The label implies that it should be used liberally - but I find that it gets cloudy if a coat is too thick
Last winter I sanded down the tiller on "Brandy" and refinished it with three coats of Minwax Helmsman Spar "Clear Satin" Urethane, sanding between each coat. I used a brush and was very careful about working out bubbles. It came out much better than I expected. This process and material was related to me by several individuals on the C250 forum.
I refinished my tiller with several coats of brushed on spar varnish. Present day spar varnish is basicly a polyurethane with UV inhibiters. I used it because I felt that it was tougher for regular wear than an oil based finish and being a liquid it can be thinned for the first few coats unlike a spray.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Steve Milby</i> <br />If you want to keep it looking nice and reduce your maintenance, keep it covered with a sunbrella or canvas cover when not in use. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Hear, Hear!
I purchased a new tiller and the CD cover four years ago and it still looks brand new.
I'm very new to this boat, but have sailed thistles for years and found in the long run that brightwork that i had always held up best when finished with good quality spar varnish. I'm not sure what the p/o used on my new boat, but it looks like some sort of shellac with pigment. It looks like it was applied with a broom. But more than that the overall appearanceis not nice. I don't know if that's Cetol, but i sure don't like the result. Most brightwork experts I've read say 6 to 8 coats of high quality spar varnish (epifanes, or equvalent) if you don't like gloss finish do the final coat with satin.
<font size="2"> <font face="Comic Sans MS"> This is one place I use spar varnish. I agree with Dave “MashedCat” that “…in the long run that brightwork that i had always held up best when finished with good quality spar varnish.” I do cover the tiller with a Sunbrella cover. The one from CD is a bit more, $24, but it covers all the way over the rudder end. A light sanding with my Dewalt sander and a couple of coats of spar varnish and it looks new like the day I got it from Catalina Yachts. I use "Armada satin" on all the other teak. </font id="size2"> </font id="Comic Sans MS">
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.