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 Hull Thickness under galley sink
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cclark
Navigator

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USA
104 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/13/2005 :  15:39:56  Show Profile  Visit cclark's Homepage
I am in the process of installing a pressure water system under my galley sink. I need to mount the pump to the hull, and I am trying to figure out;
1. The best mounting location
2. The length of screws to firmly mount the pump and accumulator
Any advice from someone who's been there is appreciated.
Chris

Yam Ka '83 SK/TR #3749

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 07/13/2005 :  16:59:04  Show Profile
If I <i>had</i> to mount something directly to the hull, I'd be inclined to epoxy a piece of wood to the hull and mount whatever it is to it rather than drilling directly into or through the hull, but that's just me.

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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 07/13/2005 :  17:19:25  Show Profile
I mounted my pump in the bilge beneath the quarter berth, but placed the mounting screws into the vertical bulkhead between the quarter berth and bilge that supports the cabin sole.

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 07/13/2005 :  18:56:05  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
Chris,

I suggest you try not to mount things directly to the hull. Bolt them to the hull liner instead. As Don Lucier said, if you must mount to the hull, first epoxy a block of wood, then bolt or screw to that.

I mounted my pressure pump, accumulator, etc. to the underside of the quarter berth platform. The mattress does a fine job of dampening pump noise. You get to choose whether it's easily accessable but blocks valuable storage space, or it's crammed into an otherwise unusable corner somewhere but difficult to service. I put mine sort of directly to stbd of the stairs as far outboard as practical. That's also close to my relocated electrical panel and stbd water tank, not too far from galley and port tank. Main advantages of that location for me are that it helps offset weight of engine on port, and keeps hose and wire runs short. Besides saving a $ or two, longer wires are more vulnerable to damage, longer hoses harbor more bio-scum.

-- Leon Sisson

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thaind
Navigator

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Canada
145 Posts

Response Posted - 07/13/2005 :  20:55:16  Show Profile
I would hesitate to mount any screws into the hull, let alone below the waterline. There are alot of extremely good cauking/adhesives that will let you fasten brick to glass to metal to wood and seem inert, yet remain flexible. It would be better to use something like this to mount a piece of plywood and use it as a screw base.

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cclark
Navigator

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USA
104 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2005 :  11:25:30  Show Profile  Visit cclark's Homepage
Thanks for all the good ideas. I will look at the options this weekend on the boat.
Chris

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Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 07/15/2005 :  10:56:27  Show Profile
Hi Chris,

I agree wholeheartedly with the other comments regarding screwing directly to the hull. Epoxy wood to the hull or secure to a vertical bulkhead is the best.

BTW: The hull under the sink is fairly thick. When I replaced the factory "to hulls" with real Thru Hull Fittings I measured the hull thickness. Where the Thru Hull Fitting passed through the hull the thickness was just over 1.5" - - about 4 centimeters - - thick.

Talking with Frank Butler in around 1988, he said that the C25 was the strongest boat on a material per foot basis he was building at the time.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 07/15/2005 :  13:13:07  Show Profile
Chris, some wood braces are attached to the hull by the factory, and the way they do it is to glue the wood to the hull, using an adhesive of some kind (probably just epoxy), and then they saturate a piece of fiberglass cloth with epoxy resin, and drape it over the wooden brace, and stick the ends of the cloth to the hull.

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