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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Companion Hatch/Teak Sealant

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LeighMarie
Navigator

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USA
188 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/21/2002 : 16:40:46

I am redoing the wood/teak on my 1985 C25. In taking the pieces off around the hatchway there was a significant amount of something between the back of the wood/teak and the fiberglass. I also took the handle and piece of wood off the front of the sliding hatch cover and there was something under there. (It actually looked "not healthy" and gooey.) I have followed other "threads" and will be putting LifeCaulk under the handrails when I put them back on, and I'm now wondering if I should put it also under the wood/teak around the hatchway?

Dave & Sharon on "Leigh-Marie"
Hull #5128

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/21/2002 : 17:45:05

Dave and Sharon,

Yes, you should use caulk to bed the exterior companionway trim. I reinstalled mine last week and I caulked it to prevent water from infiltrating the cabin. As for the gooey stuff that was under this trim and the sliding hatch teak, this was probably the original bedding compound. It is more like a waxy putty(reminded me of a wax toilet ring) than a caulk, but it appeared to do the job quite well.

Don Lucier, Northstar
C25 SR/FK

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LeighMarie
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USA
188 Posts

Response Posted - 04/21/2002 : 19:54:45

Don, the way you described it, like a waxy putty, is exactly what it looked like! There were some places water had obviously infiltrated it and broken a lot of it down, but it still kept the water out. Using Life Caulk will work in those areas instead of the waxy putty stuff?

Dave & Sharon on "Leigh-Marie"
Hull #5128

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JoergK
Navigator

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USA
140 Posts

Response Posted - 04/21/2002 : 22:57:36

I'm doing exactly the same just now as Dave & Sharon, and for that purpose bought Silicon II indoor/outddor caulk, guessing it will do. Would anyone advise against using this stuff?

Joerg

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kurt
1st Mate

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27 Posts

Response Posted - 04/22/2002 : 07:45:45

This weekend I reinstalled my teak with 3m 101 . It was quite messy and I learned a little goes a long way. I used the white and was happy with the results. Of course time will tell. Thinner cleans it up very nicely. The varnished teak changes the whole look of the boat :) .
I installed a new bronze thru hull and was happy to see almost a ½ of glass. I will be replacing them over the next few seasons.
New netting to keep our 2-year-old daughter on board and Started to install auto bulge pump for peace of mind as well as a solar panel but time ran short.

Kurt Cathy Madelyn
“cockatoo” 86 sr/fk
in Maine

Edited by - kurt on 04/22/2002 07:48:14

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/22/2002 : 07:57:08

Dave and Sharon,

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>"Using Life Caulk will work in those areas instead of the waxy putty?" <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Yes, but be sure to use it properly. Clean off all of the old bedding compound(waxy stuff). On the teak piece that attaches to the sliding hatch, I put a bead of caulk near the top of the piece from end to end as well as around every screw hole. I masked off my teak so if any caulk oozed out, it wouldn't get on my teak. On the exterior companionway teak, I put a bead around every screw hole and a bead along the inboard edge from top to bottom. On the interior companionway rails, I again used the caulk more generously(screw holes and beads top to bottom). Additionally, after masking the interior teak, I layed a bead from top to bottom along the edge where the hatchboards set in to prevent water from seeping into the cabin if it gets past the hatchboards. I followed this edge down to the threshold with caulk. Again, careful masking can keep everything nice and neat, and remember patience is a virtue.

Joerg,

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I'm doing exactly the same just now as Dave & Sharon, and for that purpose bought Silicon II indoor/outddor caulk, guessing it will do. Would anyone advise against using this stuff?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

I, personally, would stick with a polysulfide caulk when bedding your teak and avoid the Silicon indoor/outdoor caulk. On my last boat, I used the a 25year silicone sealant(Home Depot) to seal my outboard bracket and was not happy with the results. Now some silicone sealants are formulated for the marine environment, but make sure you are using one of them.

Don Lucier, Northstar
C25 SR/FK

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Rick Heaverly 86 C25 5382
Navigator

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Belize
206 Posts

Response Posted - 04/22/2002 : 08:09:16

I removed my teak last year, cleaned with te-ka, coated with cetol and re-installed with life caulk. I had a few areas where the life caulk ooozed out from under teak and onto the fiberglass, but was very easy to remove with putty knife or scraper after it dried.

Rick Heaverly

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 04/23/2002 : 08:47:51

I haven't read all the posts on this one, but when you do use caulk, there is a teak primer... 3M makes one to go with its teak caulk (a 101 derrivitive) and Life Caulk also makes one. It will help with the adhesion since teak is oily by nature

Duane Wolff
"The Flying Wasp"
C-25, #401 std,sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 national Org.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dc20b3127cce9cd2f45b211a0000004010" border=0>

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.