Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Seems like cracks in the top surface would allow water to seep in? If you didn't care about original appearance you could glass top and bottom and refinish top with paint? New lid sounds like a Catalina Yachts purchase to me.
When I bought my boat, the lid to the anchor locker wasn't caved in, but all of the plywood reinforcement on the inside of the lid was missing, and it was real flimsy ... I'm sure it would have cracked in half if anyone had put their weight on it.
I did what Steve suggested ... I glassed the inside with fiberglass mat and LOTS of epoxy ... in fact, I used the whole kit on it, and the fiberglass mat with epoxy is probably 1/2" thick. I haven't installed it on the boat yet, but it seems like it will hold quite a bit of weight now.
I don't know how much damage was done to yours, but, if it isn't broken into a bunch of pieces, I'd bet that fiberglass mat with epoxy will hold it together. As far as leaking, I don't see any way that water could leak through all that fiberglass and epoxy, almost no matter how badly your hatch cover is cracked.
I bought a marine fiberglass repair kit and fiberglass mat from Home Depot ... 'seems like it all cost about $25. The repair itself isn't hard to do. I just trimmed the matting to fit the space (two or three layers, with some overlap), and then I used a trowel for a squeegee to slop it all together with the epoxy. After it cured, I trimmed around the edges with a Dremel tool and cutting wheel, then I sanded it to smooth it out a bit.
I don't have much experience with fiberglass ... perhaps there are others on the board who can give you some other tips.
I have done a little fiberglassing and hope these tips help As with painting, one of the most important steps is preperation. Be sure to rough up the area, I use my makita grinder. Besure to go at leats 2 inches past the area that needs the glass. If there are cracks all the way through and you don't want to do anything to the top, I would carefully grind a V knotch and cut a thin piece of mat to fit in this grove. glass it in then do a little larger strip till the grove is filled. Then put a large layer over this. If you need to put some on the top and want to keep it to a minimum try some 2 in cloth tape, this keeps a nice edge. A couple of weeks ago I had to glass the lip on the slidding hatch. I ground it down and put a copple of layers on both sides. Remember to wear rubber gloves, and clean up right away with rubbing alcohol. Have your pieces of cloth pre cut. I put a light coat on the prepared surface, then put on a dry layer, soak this layer and squegee out the excess. Don't have thick puddles of resin. The strength comes from glass impregnated with resen, one part is not enough. If it helps have the peice over large and trim with siccors when mostly dry, but not hard. Good luck and let us know how it comes out.<b></b><b></b>
while we're on the anchor locker topic - has anyone got a suggestion for a replacement slide/bolt and screw-down for the lid lock ? Just the slide - the rest of the hardware is still intact.
p.s. a new anchor locker hatch from Catalina Direct, part# E1778 is listed at $75.60
jm, My slide latch is worn out too. I called Catalina Direct and told them I needed a replacement. What they sent me was simply a sliding cabinet latch used for boat interiors. Could have picked one up at any marine store.
Hi Jess I was lucky, I decided to rebuild mine before it caved in, so it was still in one piece, I used west system apoxy using there directions for mixing. I ground the inside clean,coated with apoxy and then add a recut 1/4 addition piece of plywood and 2 layers of fiberglass cloth, while I was there I did a 3/4 oval cut out for the anchor rode, it never seemed to stay dry anyway, so keep the drain clear for sure. V'd out the cracks on top and filled with 3m putty carefully trying to save as much of the non skid as possible, primer and paint. about $35.00 before paint and it is very stong now. Good luck Terry Lematike #789
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.