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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've only towed my C25 once (to Winter storage this year). We used a friends truck with plenty of power. I want to buy a Jeep Grand Cherokee but I'm being told that I need an 8 cyl. Can anyone tell me how much weight I need to plan for (I'm guessing that the total weight is about 6,000 lbs) and whether I really need an 8 cyl.?
Hi Tom, Figure on at least a 6,000 lb tow with boat and trailer (yes, I know that the specs wouldn't indicate that - but the boats are heavier than spec - plus all the gear aboard adds pounds too). Also figure how many hills you have to climb. It might be cheaper to buy the car you want and rent/borrow a truck for a twice a year trip. Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839
My C250 WK on its trailer weighs 7,000lbs and I believe a C25 is a bit heavier. We used to tow with a V8 GMC Yukon with towing package and it was not adequate. 3/4 ton pickup is what you want. Remember the issue is not pulling power - it is stopping power and emergency control.
Had plenty of fun with it until the Mexicans stole it for drug running pleasure. I know you guys aren't as close to Mexico as I am, but I'd still highly recommend a standalone GPS for any large vehicle regardless of your insurance and anti-theft. Large expensive vehicles have been stolen a lot recently.
Some will say they safely towed their house with a Volkswagen. The truth is as Randy said. It's not in the going but in the stopping. Your boat will weigh at least 3 Tons! That's probably twice the weight of the Grand Cherokee. I know I wouldn't want that much weight behind me in a vehicle that barely meets the specs.
I wouldn't consider towing my boat with less than an F250 long wheelbase equipped for towing.
We have friends that used to tow their C25 with a smaller displacment V8 (1/2t pu) and often wished they had something larger. Terrain certainly should factor into your decision. As John references above, stopping ability is equally (if not more) important. My first C25 had single axle brakes, state law mandated brakes on the 2nd axle - <b>big difference.</b> Current trailer has quad discs - <b>really big difference.</b>
We're considering a new vehicle, and the ability to tow the boat is a "nice to have" that is swaying our decision a bit (I don't even have a trailer yet). We're leaning heavily toward the V8 Durango, which is rated to 7400 lbs, and I wouldn't dream of trying to tow the boat without breaks on <b>at least</b> one axle, and probably both (or certainly both, if that's what my state requires).
Can someone help me (and hopefully Tom) understand how/why the V8 Jeep Grand Cherokee (also rated to 7400 lbs) or the Durango aren't good choices, assuming a trailer with "proper" brakes? And no, I'm not trying to stir things up! Just trying to get some basic facts.
Electric brakes change the formula. If you want to travel with it then you need to be prepared for what may come; a 250 level vehicle with as long a wheelbase as possible as a base. If you just move it annually then your route determines what you need. My Mountaineer handled both of my C25s very well but I felt better about the '89 with electric brakes. My route is FLAT and well maintained pavement all the way from my house the crane that I use to launch the boat. I would never try to handle any grades with my Mountaineer. My Econoline 150 5.4 has the wheelbase and power but not the suspension or brakes to handle it for a long road trip... and it would be a milage nightmare.
My Spirit 23 rig from the early 80s.
I towed my Merit 25 with my Cutlass wagon up to 200 miles for regattas.
Hi Tom... Over what distances, roads, speeds, and terrains will your tows be done, and how often? One mile at 30 mph on a flat road is one thing--20 miles on an interstate or 50+ mph road is another. Directional stability is a key issue, particularly when braking and turning at higher speeds, and most particularly when something unexpected happens. I've seen a very scary example, where a Cherokee and boat just ahead of me ended up in a field. And I vaguely recall a C-250 owner once reporting here about his boat ending up on its side after jackknifing--don't remember the tow vehicle.
Wheelbase length is a significant factor for stability, and for example, I think the Chevy Suburban has over a foot more than a Grand Cherokee or Durango, as well as over 9,000 lbs. towing capacity and greater payload. Of course, this comes at a fuel consumption price for everyday driving. The F-250 can be <i>way</i> longer (like 4-5' longer?) with a towing capacity about double your requirement.
I'd seriously consider Bill Holcomb's advice unless towing the boat is a frequent event. Friends of mine paid somebody around $100 each way, I think, to tow their C-30 to and from their home each year. Their vehicle, in turn, was typically something like a Taurus.
I had my boat moved from southern Ohio to Lake Erie by a guy from a RV store that was on his way to Elkhart to pick up a 5th wheel camper. Paid him around $200. You might check a few of the RV dealers in the area and see if they might be interested in hauling to Marblehead. You actually may only have to do it once if you choose to winter store the boat there.
Frank brought up an interesting point regarding launch. Will you ramp launch or lift it in?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Stinkpotter</i> <br />I'd seriously consider Bill Holcomb's advice unless towing the boat is a frequent event. Friends of mine paid somebody around $100 each way, I think, to tow their C-30 to and from their home each year. Their vehicle, in turn, was typically something like a Taurus. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Glad to be called a friend... we hire a regular old towtruck to pull the trailer. $80 to $100 each way - less than a tank of gas for our car at current prices. He pays the insurance and assumes the liabilty if things go wrong. Edit to add - we pull the empty trailer home behind the minivan for summer storage.
It really is easy. I'm a something over 6k with a 7k towing capacity and it works fine (I limit my speed to 62mph normally). Just buy a vehicle with at least 7k towing capacity as equipped and let the opinions fly. Opinions are just that and free, including mine, but the numbers are real, at least the ones that apply to your vehicle as equipped. The TV commercial may say 14,200 lb. towing capacity; the rapidly scrolling fine print says <u>properly equipped</u>. There is no best towing vehicle; there is one that best fits your needs. Incidentally, I tow with a 2008 Grand Cherokee V-8. The new G. Cherokee with vastly more torque from the new V-6 is still only rated for 4500 lb. because the rest of the drive train isn't up to it.
Sorry, I just checked and the 6 is rated for 5k. The 5.7L V-8 is 7400, but be sure that you get the right package. The 6.4L "Hemi" SRT-8 went down to 6K, probably because it is more aimed at the luxury market with attendent suspension changes and weighty options.
Please read the little red notice at the bottom of the screen before accepting any advice on this matter. My boat weighs 6,000lbs on the crane at liftout. Add trailer and whatever is in your vehicle to that for a GVWR.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i> <br />Add trailer and whatever is in your vehicle to that for a GVWR. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I believe the GVW includes the <i>tongue weight</i> of the trailer, but not the entire trailer and boat weight (which relates to the towing capacity). So the GVWR (rating) is one thing, and the towing capacity (trailer, boat, and its contents) is another. Both count.
For what it is worth; I towed a travel trailer all over the eastern US and Canada with a vehicle that had a tow rating of 7300 pounds. The trailer weighed 6960 pounds loaded for travel. It did OK but really worked hard on hills and in head winds. For a Catalina 25 I would not consider a vehicle that did not have a tow rating of at least 9000 pounds. Watch the total gross weight on the door placard and be sure all wheels have brakes. Also watch the tongue weight. My boat trailer had 3500 pound axels and both were bowed from overweight loads. It now has 5200 pound axels.
hewebb (Howard) makes a great point and something I'm thinking as I read through this thread; There has never been a time in my life where a little overkill to a situation has not paid off. To do something comfortably takes a lot of pain and strain out of a situation, and might save your life.
<center><font color="red">Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.</font id="red"></center>
OK, so what I'm reading is that basically the Jeep Grand Cherokee/Durango CAN do it, but it isn't necessarily the best tool for the task, or one you'd want to use with a good deal of regularity (e.g., towing the boat to different locations ever weekend). Kind of like a jigsaw and a table saw - you can make due with the jigsaw, but for repeated use and better results, you're better off with the table saw. Or, put another way, from what I'm reading the drivetrain and frame are set up to tow 7000 lbs, but the engine could really use more "oomf" (yeah, technical term) if you're going to be hauling over mountains, etc., and the brakes could be beefed up more to help with stopping what is essentially a vehicle that suddenly weighs at least twice as much and is over twice as long. Fair characterization?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimGo</i> <br />...Kind of like a jigsaw and a table saw - you can make due with the jigsaw, but for repeated use and better results, you're better off with the table saw... Fair characterization?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Actually, I don't think so. What we're pointing out here (and have many times) is that this is a matter of the safety of yourself, perhaps your family, and possibly some other people who happen to be on the road. I side with Dave R. and Howard W.--I do not like to operate at or near the manufacturers' rated maximums for things that, if overtaxed, can hurt or kill people. YMMV.
Early in my military career (I was a medic), I worked in a major trauma center in San Antonio. Some may recall Wilford Hall, the only hospital on the west side of town so we got military and civilian major trauma cases. If I had a nickel for every time I heard somebody with a serious injury say something like: "I was just going around the corner." Or, "I just did it once." I could make more than a couple of mortgage payments.
This is a safety issue. All this discussion about level roads vs. hill, frequent vs infrequent towing etc., is just obfuscation. Over-stressing safety standards "just once" is all it takes to get somebody killed. I remember every dead child I've ever taken to the morgue and it's been 30-35 years since.
Just ask a certain cruise ship Captain in Italy. If what has been reported about his actions is true, he probably thought to himself as he steered closer to shore: "aaahhh, nuthin's gonna happen just once. Besides, everybody does it."
In addition to the other comments, you would be putting a huge amount of stress on the engine and transmission trying to pull a C-25 out of the water with a 6-cyl. vehicle. I would be worried about damaging the transmission and would not do it, period.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.