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Older CDI furler

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Captmorgan
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USA
220 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/13/2013 : 20:29:39

OK I have a question. I have an older CDI furler. It has 4 metal brackets around the spool. One bracket has a hole and an black gromet. The furling line goes in through that and around the spool. However when I pull the sail out or try to wrap it up. It spins.

It looks like its supposed to be attached and stationary and the spool would be the only piece that turns. It looks like a bolt used to run through a hole to keep it from turning. Does that make sense is that spool supposed to be stationary so the curler is always guiding the line.

JOhn

"The Gal-Way" 1985 SR/SK Barnegat Bay, NJ

Enjoy Sailing =) Be Safe

Happy Sailing - John

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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4275 Posts

Response Posted - 09/14/2013 : 07:08:46

Yes, the inner drum is all that should be turning.

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Captmorgan
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Response Posted - 09/14/2013 : 20:04:29

Thanks for the reply

I fabricated something to stop the outside bracket from turning. It worked much better. The issue now is that it works fine until the spool fills. If If I have the sail full out there's too much furling line on the spool and the overflow makes it tough to handle.

I there a stronger narrow furling line you could use. I think its already only 3/8 or 7/16.

Or can you get larger spool pieces?

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by GaryB
 Yes, the inner drum is all that should be turning.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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3754 Posts

Response Posted - 09/14/2013 : 21:55:18

I have 5/16 on my Harken and will probably to to 1/4. I have the problem of having barely enough to fully furl the sail with a with a moderately tight furl and a drum filled to the max when unfurled. I sometimes get a very tight wrap and end up with a foot of sail out. You would really benefit in finding a manual for your model.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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4275 Posts

Response Posted - 09/15/2013 : 04:36:18

The trick is to keep tension on the furling line as you're pulling the sail out.

If you just release the furling line and pull the sail out you may very well end up not being able to get the sail all the way out because the drum fills up.

Going back in, if you keep too much tension on the sheet as you pull the sail in you might end up with some of sail hanging out.

It all comes down to how you do the initial setup. Get it right and things will work better all the time.

I didn't take the time to tweak mine and I'm having all the same problems you guys are having. Don't keep tension on the line going out and the sail won't come all the way out, get it too tight going in and there is sail left hanging out.

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Captmorgan
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220 Posts

Response Posted - 09/15/2013 : 08:07:38

It has been getting better. I cant seem to finda a manual for mine. the paperwork says CDI and the past owner thought is was harken. It looks like none of the pics I see. the four brackets around the spool are flat chrome posts the spook is Black resin drum open spool no enclosure or methods to keep line in. Can you just replace the spool to a slightly larger one. It seems like there is a lot of space between the guides and the spool so a looser line would drop and not stay on spool. Ill keep working on tension techques for better line wrap but I think there is something not right about the line volume to spool making it worse.

Thanks again I cant tell you how awesome this site is. As time goes on I will try to help people where I can.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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4275 Posts

Response Posted - 09/15/2013 : 08:16:30

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Captmorgan
 It has been getting better. I cant seem to finda a manual for mine. the paperwork says CDI and the past owner thought is was harken. It looks like none of the pics I see. the four brackets around the spool are flat chrome posts the spook is Black resin drum open spool no enclosure or methods to keep line in. Can you just replace the spool to a slightly larger one. It seems like there is a lot of space between the guides and the spool so a looser line would drop and not stay on spool. Ill keep working on tension techques for better line wrap but I think there is something not right about the line volume to spool making it worse.

Thanks again I cant tell you how awesome this site is. As time goes on I will try to help people where I can.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Does it look like this -->> [url="http://www.furling.com/popup/tour1.html"]Furler[/url]

If so here is a link to the manual and a description of the system -->> [url="http://www.furling.com/snapfurl.html"]Snapfurl[/url].

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Captmorgan
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220 Posts

Response Posted - 09/15/2013 : 08:25:59

http://www.sailcdi.com/sailpdf/ckit4_6_403.pdf

I found this link. I think they coverted the older 4/6 reefer I furler . Does anyone have a picture or manual of an old CDI 4/6 Reefer I if they do I could see if this replacement drum is good for me.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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3754 Posts

Response Posted - 09/15/2013 : 21:42:36

Gary, my drum is simply marginal for 5/16 line and a 150. I always maintain tension, but tighter wraps require more turns and the drum is maxed out when the sail is unfurled. The book says a ratchet block will supply adequate tension - that is a laugh. The book also says 1/4 or 5/16 line. 5 layers of 1/4 is the same 4 of 5/16. Downsizing the line, going to a 135 genoa or going up one size on the furler are my choices to simplify my life. I thought about decoring a few feet of line, but the line should be replaced anyway.

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Captmorgan
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220 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2013 : 16:51:57

OK here is an update on my older furler. I read on a few post that people have the same problem and tried to move to smaller diameter. I purchased some 3/16 dacron/polyester multibraid 2 and 1220 lb per square ft. The Jib halyard is also 3/16 on the set up.

I read an article showing about 390 to 800 lbs is the force the jib line would see in 30 knot winds. I don't intend to sail in 30 knot wind and I think this is reasonable.

It worked really well we never filled up and it operated smoothly with no issues. I do want to scan the crowd so to speak and see if they heard differently.

I do understand strength drops with chafe so My current 1/4 line probably didn't have its 2000lb rating anyway

DO we think 1200 lb break strengh is enough
Based on this article and the fact the halyard is 3/16 I think Im ok.
But want to be safe.

PS right now if the wind is blowing hard and I leave the 1/4 line on there jams up and the getting it in is unsafe. I think this is safer.

Ill be looking for stronger 3/16 line if they have it.

Heres the link on the line strength;

http://barnaclebillholcomb.blogspot.com/2013/08/roller-furling-roller-reefing.html

Here is the line to the article I also found some old pages to the Furler that may interest some people.

Also In looking at the diagram I think I can see that there is internal clamp that is supposed to hold the spooling bracket and line guide from turning but it is internal and probably loose. I simple created a metal tie from the bracket to the boat mounting hardware so it holds the bracket from turning. I like being able to see it. Ill take it apart this winter to see the condition of the inside.

I have some old messy pages from the manual I will try to post them as the diagrams are very helpful for this furler.

I dont know how to post the images of the manual but I tried it. Hope these help someone. Not Pretty but functional

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britinusa
Web Editor

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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2013 : 19:12:25

When I called CDI several years ago, they suggested that I pull the core out of our Furling line to allow enough length to wind into the furler (newer model). Didn't do it, but always think about it. I rarely fly our 150 jib, so it's really not an issue.

Paul

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