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Catalina 25 Specific Forum

wax

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markolito
1st Mate

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Italy
95 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/12/2003 : 09:31:38

Hello all,

I waxed about half my boat with 3M fiberglass wax and restorer and noticed a couple things:

1. The gel coat appears healthier (it used to be a chalky & white in color)
2. Water drains off the waxed side quite nicely
3. The Waxed side does not get dirty as easily
4. The waxed side has a nice shine to it
5. The Waxed side is a bit slippery compared to the non waxed side
6. It has turned the white gelcoat a little yelowish (evident at night, not really during the day)

I wanted to know if any of you knew how to avoid the slipperyness factor; at least in the non-skid areas. Also, is the yellowish color the original color of the boat? I noticed in the pop-top area the boat was a creamy color.

Lastly, i am plannin on waxing the hull during my haul out, what wax should i use for that- the same 3M restorer and wax?

<img src="http://www.response-marketing.com/beta/plaa.jpg" border=0>
1980 SR/SK "Wet Pretzel"

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 10:52:08

Hello Marco,
I've always been weary of products that claim to perform multiple tasks - it may do them, but none of them well. I think most on this forum will agree that any short cut methods for chalking removal are short lived.
A longer term solution would be to remove the chalking with a polishing compound (I use a commercial grade polisher and No. 7 Polishing Compound,) then keep the hull well waxed to prevent the chalking from returning. BTW, if the polshing compound doesn't remove all of the chalking on a small test area, you may want start with NO. 7 Rubbing Compound, then use the Polishing Comound.
I've never waxed the topsides for safety reasons. I simply clean the deck areas with a ScotchBrite pad and Scrub Free.
Yes, the wax may give the hull a light yellowish tint - but if you apply the wax evenly no one will know the difference.
I've had the best luck with Collinite #870 Liquid FleetWax. Don't use the paste version though as it takes too much time and energy.
Good luck.

Edited by - on

Mark Maxwell
Captain

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USA
329 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 11:13:56

Hi Marco,
I would have to agree with OJ on the performance of most products that are multi-purpose. However, the 3M Fiberglass Wax and Restorer is excellent. It will last a long time (mine is a year old and still looks great) Also any wax you use will make the deck slippery. I only wax the smooth areas and leave the non-slip alone (except for cleaning as OJ stated) When doing the hull, do yourself a favor and use a random orbital polisher. Your shoulders will love you <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

<img src="http://www.chaplin-nest.com/unkarock/usflagwav.gif" border=0>
Mark-
'Impulse'
C25 #533 DINN/FIN ~_/)~
Bakersfield, CA.

Edited by - on

Shelby
Navigator

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USA
155 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 12:11:46

I agree with the use of the polisher...I think I was sore for about 3 days after doing this the first time.

Shelby
'82 C25 "Third S", #3208,SKSR,Honda 9.9, Lake Pleasant, AZ
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df08b3127cce944970aa072e0000002010" border=0>

Edited by - on

Bryan Beamer
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1038 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 13:57:31

Steve,

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>I use a commercial grade polisher <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

I think you said it was a Milwaukee. What is the model #?

Bryan Beamer
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3dc23b3127cce9462f2858f2b0000001010" border=0>
Daylight Again
C250wk #495

Edited by - on

markolito
1st Mate

Members Avatar

Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 14:12:17

Thanks for the advice.

I used the 3M restorer and wax on the whole top because it was in pretty bad shape to start off with. The non-skid sections were probably the most oxidated. Is there any way of re-doing these areas non-skid without painting? I want to restore the gel coat in these areas. The restoring/waxing made it stop the chaulking but it became a little slippery.

Also what wax can i use for the hull of the boat? it is chalking as well..

<img src="http://www.response-marketing.com/beta/plaa.jpg" border=0>
1980 SR/SK "Wet Pretzel"

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 14:24:11

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Steve,

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>I use a commercial grade polisher <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

I think you said it was a Milwaukee. What is the model #?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

I own the Milwaukee model #5455. There are three models - check out ebay.

Edited by - on

John Mason
Admiral

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USA
687 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 14:55:48

Has anyone ever tried something like surfboard wax on the non-skid areas? That's supposed to be non-slippery isn't it? The only downside I can think of offhand is that if it grips, it'll probably grip the dirt as well.

John Mason - Ali Paroosa
1982 - FK/SR #3290

Edited by - on

Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1762 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 16:13:38

Has anyone ever tried something like surfboard wax on the non-skid areas? That's supposed to be non-slippery isn't it? The only downside I can think of offhand is that if it grips, it'll probably grip the dirt as well.

John Mason - Ali Paroosa
1982 - FK/SR #3290


I'm not a surfer, but I thought they waxed their boards not to make them shiny, but to make it harder to slip off ... I think surf board wax is just that ... a sorta' bee's wax ... ?

Anyway, a few months ago the subject of polishing the non-skid came up in another thread. I mentioned a product that I bought called "Sure Step." It is supposed to clean & polish, help with UV protection, and leave the nonskid with increased grip. I haven't gotten to try it yet ... the marina turned off the water for the winter before I could get around to it. I'll let y'all know later in the spring if it's any good.

Buzz Maring, C-25 SK/SR #68, "Freya"
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df23b3127cce9306a9b3abad0000001010" border=0>

Edited by - on

Bryan Beamer
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1038 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 16:44:56

Buzz,

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I mentioned a product that I bought called "Sure Step." It is supposed to clean & polish, help with UV protection, and leave the nonskid with increased grip.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Where did you purchase the "Sure Step"?

Bryan Beamer
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3dc23b3127cce9462f2858f2b0000001010" border=0>
Daylight Again
C250wk #495

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3312 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 17:22:32

"I'm not a surfer, but I thought they waxed their boards not to make them shiny, but to make it harder to slip off."
Don't they use the wax on the bottom of the board to create less friction thru' the water? Just like the racers polish their bottoms (of their boats of course <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>)
I've only "de-chalked" one hull. I helped a buddy do his Starwind 27 which was white hulled. We used wet & dry sandpaper on a 1/4 sheet sander, finishing with 400 grit. Then used fiberglass rubbing compound and finally a 3M wax. He was most surprised to find at the end that his hull was actually beige - and the water in the slip looked like milk! But did that hull glow!!
Derek

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3dc30b3127cce942c608d6f1e0000001010" border=0>

Edited by - on

jheard
1st Mate

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USA
49 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 18:09:19

Surfers put wax on the top of the surfboard to grip the board and make it less slippery. I would not put that on my nonskid for the reason you mention, it is dirty and messy. I use regular wax and polish on my nonskid and then buff it with a dry deck brush. I have not had any problems. Of course I live in Southern California where it rarely rains, and if it does I am usually reading this website instead of sailing :)

Edited by - on

Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1762 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 19:45:59

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Buzz,

Where did you purchase the "Sure Step"?

Bryan Beamer
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
I bought it on eBay ... 'don't remember exactly what I paid for it ... 'sorry.

Sure Step is made by a Canadian company called Aurora Marine Industries, Inc. They have information about their products and where to buy them on their web site ... here is the link:

http://www.auroramarine.com/

Buzz Maring, C-25 SK/SR #68, "Freya"
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df23b3127cce9306a9b3abad0000001010" border=0>

Edited by - on

A Devries
Deckhand

Members Avatar

21 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 19:58:45

Dr Zoggs Sex Wax is not what you want for your boat. It ends up looking like snot after several applications and forms little balls in your chest hair from laying on the board when you paddle out.
When you look for a buffer the RPM should be around 1800 you will also find some around 2300. I prefer the slower ones there is less chance of burning the gelcoat. Milwaukee makes by far the best.
Have fun tool shopping.
Albert

Edited by - on

dave holtgrave
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
427 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 22:28:06

sure step
look at boater's world
i think it is made by armorlite??

it is good and i tried alittle last year on the anchor locker.
it was not slick.
i am doing the entire top this spring
dave
5722
carlyle lake
southern illinois

Edited by - on

Ed Montague
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
499 Posts

Response Posted - 02/13/2003 : 00:45:05

Surfing in Santa Cruz, CA as a kid we waxed our boards and even put a little sand with it for more grip. The water very seldom got warmer then 58 degrees F. Of course I didn't have enough chest hair in those days to worry about. And some of us even whimped out and wore wet suit tops, you remember those old stinky rubber ones. I would sure hate to wax my non skid and then have a 100 degree summer day turn the whole thing into a mess.

Ed Montague on 'Yahoo'
1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~

Edited by - on

markolito
1st Mate

Members Avatar

Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 02/13/2003 : 09:52:19

I think that sure step stuff is what i was looking for!
I am gonna wax the boat with the 3M restorer and wax for now.. and order the sure step for the non skid areas. thanks alot for all your help!

<img src="http://www.response-marketing.com/beta/plaa.jpg" border=0>
1980 SR/SK "Wet Pretzel"

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/13/2003 : 14:30:39

"I am gonna wax the boat with the 3M restorer and wax for now.. "

FYI, I bought this stuff last year at Walmart for less than what the boat store charges.

Don Lucier, 'North Star'
C25 SR/FK
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2cc32b3127cce92e981259d130000001010" border=0>
Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie

Edited by - on

markolito
1st Mate

Members Avatar

Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 02/13/2003 : 15:15:32

Thanks for the heads up Don!

<img src="http://www.response-marketing.com/beta/plaa.jpg" border=0>
1980 SR/SK "Wet Pretzel"

Edited by - on

MikeM
1st Mate

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72 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2003 : 09:27:38

I actually surf and I would not recommend using the surfing type wax on non skid. It starts to melt at 85+ degrees (in the sun) and it will be a haven for dirt. Being pertoluem based it will also stain the deck if it absorbs unevenly.

To answer those questions from the above thread, the wax is used on top of the surfboard to add grip for your feet and stomach (for paddling). Otherwise you would be trying to step on a piece of wet fiberglass, which we all know is like ice.

Mike M
Marblehead, MA
C25 #1212

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2003 : 10:40:27

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
...To answer those questions from the above thread, the wax is used on top of the surfboard to add grip for your feet and stomach (for paddling). Otherwise you would be trying to step on a piece of wet fiberglass, which we all know is like ice.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Uhhhhhh... So why do they make surfboards so slippery?? So the graphics look cool?

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

Dave Seely
1st Mate

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46 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2003 : 10:53:38

Something I have always wanted to try on faded gelcoat is the 2 part clear urethane paint they sell at West Marine. I think if you get all of the oxidization off and paint it with clear paint, it would seal the pores in the gelcoat so that you won't get the black mold, it shouldn't be slick and it should restore the shine. As the clear paint wears off, it won't change in color, it will just loose some of the shine. Anyone tried it yet or have any warnings before I try it?

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2003 : 13:42:10

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Hello Marco,
I've always been weary of products that claim to perform multiple tasks - it may do them, but none of them well. I think most on this forum will agree that any short cut methods for chalking removal are short lived.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Steve, I used to agree with you, right up to the point that I used the 3 M restorer/anti oxidant/wax works wonders. I throw on a coat of McGuires wax(stuff we used to use back in my high school car detailing days) when I am done just to give it the extra glow, but 3-m gets my vote for that product any day of the week.

Marc - one word of advice for when you do the hull - Use it on small areas! a little bit at a time. You'll get better results doing the thing by hand the old fashioned way too, however the other posts are right, you will be sore for a few days. If you use a buffer, get a commercial grade one, the electric orbital that you can grab at K-mart for 40 bucks won't cut it. A good rotary Milwaukee is what we used back when Waxing cars in the old days, or a compressor driven orbital!!

Anything bigger than a 2 foot sqaure (even with a buffer) will set up before you get to it and then you'll spend 20 minutes trying to buff out the product..

D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/dreamimages/Flags/measurer.jpg" border=0>

Edited by - Duane Wolff on 02/14/2003 13:46:01

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2003 : 21:26:18

I recommend the 3M Restorer/Wax too.. and also suggest getting in in the 'tub' rather than the squeeze bottle. I've discovered that It doesn't really like coming out of the bottle... well, at least if the temperature is under 80 degrees... which we never see here.

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

Edited by - on

markolito
1st Mate

Members Avatar

Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2003 : 12:14:12

thank you all for the help..
going to wal mart o see if they have the 3m wax.. Then heading over to the miami boat show.. fun fun fun!!

<img src="http://www.response-marketing.com/beta/plaa.jpg" border=0>
1980 SR/SK "Wet Pretzel"

Edited by - on

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