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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Stepping the mast video (Part 2)

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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/25/2008 : 12:13:50

I have recorded part two. It shows the components of the mast raising/lowering system close up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsLxujYRsMQ

In part three I'll record the whole process step by step.

Davy J

2005 Gemini 105Mc
PO 1987 C25 #5509 SR/SK
Tampa Bay

Edited by - on

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2008 : 12:26:16

Excellent. This stuff needs to be put into the Tech Tips or have a quick link into the archives.........or something else for ease of retrieval.

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JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1519 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2008 : 12:52:18

Davy J,
It's clear to me that you have refined many details. I like the A-frame with an added tang to accept the forward lower shrouds temporarily, for example.

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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2008 : 13:11:46

Since I have to go through this entire process each time I take the boat out, (lower mast to go under bridge, raise mast and rig to sail, lower mast to go under bridge, raise mast to tie up to my dock)
I've done it literally hundreds and hundreds of times. I've tried to make it as fast as possible. There are a few things that may even make it faster, but since I am usually done by the time we are at the end of the canal. I haven't tried them. Now..... If I can only make it work on a C30

Thanks,
David

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2008 : 14:59:14

Why not just leave it down when you return to your dock and eliminate half of the ups/downs?

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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2008 : 15:19:58

The main reason I don't leave the mast in the down postion is that it's a bit dangerous to try to dock the boat in that manner. I do leave it in a semi-unrigged state, in that I do not tighten shrouds or remove a-frame before/after docking. The mast gets raised before docking and then the only other thing is the back stay gets retensioned. This way, when I want to go out, I remove boom, drop mast.

The second reason, is that here in Florida, in the summertime, an afternoon thunderstorm can be just as furious as a weak hurricane, at least for a short time.

Edited by - on

sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2008 : 21:31:00

Like the video's and yes you should put them in the tech tips.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 05/03/2008 : 19:39:49

Can someone tell me the bolt or pin size that holds the forward lowers. I'm finally getting around to building my A-Frame.

Thanks in advance.

Edited by - GaryB on 05/03/2008 19:40:09

Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2008 : 05:59:43

Are you asking about the bolt that the frame hinges on at the chainplate? Or the clevis pin that connects frame to chainplate? I will go down and take a picture of it and measure it later this morning.

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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2008 : 08:20:49

Here are a few photos

Short tube that stands on chainplate 3" tall

5/16"x1" Bolt, 5/16" Nut with nylon insert.

1 thick washer in between frame and stand up tube. 1 thick washer between tang and nut. 1 thin washer under bolt head.

The holes on tang are spaced 5" apart center to center. This allows shrouds enough slack as mast comes down/up. I loosen shrouds ten turns.

The additional clevis pin is the same diameter as regular clevis pin, just longer with multiple holes. I have not been able to locate one of these in SS, so I buy steel and when they start to look nasty I replace with a new one.

One other thing, after I flattened the stand up tube where it connects to a-frame leg, I had to squeeze the tube at the bottom to fit over the chainplate at the correct angle.

I have seen photos of someone else's design that just used the tubes in their round form. But for my needs, flattening them takes up less room.

Edited by - Davy J on 05/04/2008 08:32:51

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2008 : 08:39:14

Davy,

I'm looking for the diameter of the hole where the shrouds attach to the chainplate. Also, what diameter tubing did you use to construct your A-Frame?

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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2008 : 09:31:45

I am not sure of the size of the hole, but I think the clevis pin is 5/16". The hole would seem to be slightly larger. The a-frame is made from 1" conduit.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2008 : 09:58:26

Thank you Davy! I appreciate your help! I'm heading down to the boat in a ew minutes to start the construction.

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Deric
Captain

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USA
408 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2008 : 19:37:09

Dave

How long in feet and inches is one leg of the a frame?
Here is a picture of my aframe. Notice the center pole that connects to both of the legs of the a frame.

I like the idea of your aframe without a center pole. Less is more.

I can not leave my aframe on the deck because the center pole is in the way. Another nice feature of your design. And there is a bridge on my lake that requires me to lower the mast if I were to venture on. I have not gone under the bridge because I had not yet taken on that challenge.

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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2008 : 07:04:07

A-frame legs are 92" long. They were originally longer, but because of the bridge clearance at high tide, I had to shorten them.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2008 : 16:25:53

I've made an a-frame out of 2x4's and plan on attaching the forward lowers to the a-frame just a few inches up from the bottom. This should allow them to move up with the a-frame. Should I still usa some sort of swiveling tang, or will moving with the a-frame be enough? I expect they will be fairly loose at first.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2008 : 16:27:49

Deric,

Can you give me all the measurements of your a-frame? I like the looks of it.
The only bridge I have to go under has a 100' clearance so I don't have to worry about carrying thea-frame with me. Your setup looks like one person could use it along with a DC winch and still maintain control of the mast.

Edited by - GaryB on 05/05/2008 18:30:47

Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2008 : 17:00:41

Deric's version is a combination gin-pole/a-frame. However, I cannot understand the need for this. A gin pole could sway side to side, so I can see why they added the "legs". But the a-frame itself cannot move side to side, so it is not necessary to have the "center" pole.

dmpilc - Just make sure there is enough slack on the forward lowers so that, at the critical moment, they do not bind. If you do not have to raise/lower the mast frequently, you might not need to connect the forward lower shrouds. Just attach them after the mast is up.

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2008 : 17:24:29

Deric, how did you fabricate the bracket at the end of the gin pole that goes around the mast and how is it attached to the gin pole? I like that. How about a close-up photo.

Edited by - Nautiduck on 05/05/2008 17:25:23

Deric
Captain

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USA
408 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2008 : 19:25:44

Hello Folks,

I'll get some pictures up on the web tomorrow so folks can see the set up. The Aframe/gin pole set up came with the boat when I purchased it last September.

When I used had the set up I, hooked the a frame legs to the forward shroud chain plate. The center pole is short so the eye was close to the a block at the bow. As we lowered the mast, the center pole would slide toward the base of the mast; eventually the fork of the mast would saddle the mast pole.

In my mind, I still don't think I am using the set up correctly. I had a friend pulling on the line while I walked the mast up, did the same thing in reverse to lower the mast. I would love to get it set up so I can do perform the raising and lowering of the mast from the cockpit.

You may have noticed the wooden 2 x 4 pole (brown) in the picture. It has a roller at one end to slide the mast back as one positions the base of the mast into the mast plate. The wooden pole also has pins, I have to remove the rudder to place the wooden pole in place. DavyJ's set up allows for the mast to rest on his stainless steel frame while the rudder stays connected to the boat.

Come back tomorrow night for pictures and measurements of my set up.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2008 : 22:12:44

For me it will be only once or twice a year. At present, I need to lower the mast to change out the masthead sheaves and halyards. While it is down, I may add a spinnaker/extra-jib halyard. I won't need to take it down again until the next haul-out or repair event.

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Deric
Captain

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USA
408 Posts

Response Posted - 05/06/2008 : 19:00:53

Hello Folks,
Some of you asked for pics of the aframe/ginpole set up I have. I think DavyJ's setup is simpler.
DavyJ's aframe legs are longer than mine.

My aframe legs are 6 feet and the ginpole is 8 feet.

The fork at the base of the gin pole.

The opposite end of the gin pole. Note the eyes are welded to the pole.

The sleeve slides along the gin pole.

End of the aframe that connects to the forward shroud chainplate.

As I mentioned in a previous entry, when the line are connected to the eye(s), the fork is a good distance from the base of the mast, yet as the mast is lowered, the fork moves toward the base of the mast until it surrounds the mast. I'll have to work with it some more to get it figured out.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 05/06/2008 : 20:26:53

Deric,

Thanks for the pics!

I'm trying to visualize he problem your having with this layout. In my mind I'm thinking the A-Frame legs should obviously be attached to the forward lowers and the ginpole should be attached to the base of the mast before anything moves in either direction. You may have to attach your forestay in a different way.

Feel free to set me straight!

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 05/06/2008 : 21:31:55

Wow, someone did a nice job fabricating that pole. If you decide to eliminate the center pole I'll take it!

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Deric
Captain

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USA
408 Posts

Response Posted - 05/07/2008 : 05:59:13

GaryB,

I agree with your statement regarding the forestay may need to be attached a different way. I'll work with it again. I acquired the boat in Sept and stepped the mast up and down 2 times - - just to see if I can do it. I had a friend help me in the raising and lowering of the mast.

It appears the gin pole was fabricated by someone who knows how to work with metal.

I'll take some measurements this weekend and post it here so folks who want to build one may have some numbers to work with.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 05/07/2008 : 19:51:24

Deric,

I think it's important that you attach the gin pole and teh A=Frame legs first and then do whatever it takes to attach the forestay. Without seeing what it looked like before I'm guessing you might only need to add a short extension wire or rope from the forestay to the end of the gin pole.

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