Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
In all of the posts I have read about anchoring with our boats why did no one ever mention you can't get there from here!!!
What is that a picture of? A CDI drum too close to the pulpit so the rode has to be forced between them; and forget getting the chain past. A furling line that the anchor has to pass under creating serious gymnastics out on the bow trying to get the anchor and chain under the furling line, out the front of the pulpit and then do something with it as you open the gate to set the rode down on the anchor roller and then close the keeper gate pin. I happen to have an anchor bracket on the pulpit for that interim step but honestly it was all horrible, my back hurts and it maybe years before I anchor again!
My set-up is not much better..also have a CDI furler sandwinched in up near the bow pulpit stanchions. I have my furler attached to an anchor roller bracket with a long shackle that raises the furler about another inch up from the deck. I did that mainly because the PO had the stays to tight and the stern stay turnbuckle was at the end of it's adjustment. But the shackle gives a little more clearance for anger..."anchor" management. I probably should add an anchor support bracket to the top of the bow pulpit but have not made up my mind what to do yet. What about adding one of those motorized anchor windlasses and permanently mount the anchor off the bow ? Too much like a motorboat ?
I would think running the furler line on port side will take of that problem, but why is there no clearance on the stbd side and lots of clearance on the port side between the stanchion and the drum? Isn’t there the same clearance on both sides of the drum ? If not why not? Is the front of your pulpit bent to one side?
The furling drum on my boat is centered. Since the hatch is opened from the starboard side and that is the side I basically take the anchor out that is also the side of the drum that I tend to lower the anchor. Having the furling line leading to the cockpit on the anchor hatch hinge side (port side), keeps the furling line out of the way (behind the raised anchor hatch cover.
Put the anchor and chain in the locker with just the line laid around the pulpit (The anchor is too long, Oh). Then turn the anchor bracket over and lay the chain over the anchor and secured for rough seas with the line over the roller or put the picnic anchor in the locker and stow the storm anchor in the cockpit locker with the chain and line laid in a bucket with the bitter end secured.
My drum is much closer to the starboard side, I don't see any damage so I think it is just one of those things that reminds us we sail handmade boats. I hate to rerun the furling line but probably should. I will need to move my jam cleat from the sternrail and probably reassign the lance cleat to a new location and function. It started off as my furling cleat and never failed but I decided the jam cleat was safer. The ratchet will be easy to move.
I was wondering the exact same thing when I started anchoring for the first time this summer. With the earlier C-25s, the lifelines extend to the forward legs of the pulpit, adding even more in the way. This photo is a little close, but you can see with the furler line and lifelines, it isn't the best set up for leading the anchor rode.
I've only anchored a couple times and when I have, I used most of all my rode (only 75', need to upgrade, but I usually anchor in 7-10'). I think I let it all out and then holding onto the end of the rode, making sure I don't let go, I lead it through the roller to the cleat. I need to figure out a better method so I don't accidentally lose my anchor/rode while gripping the end.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br />I gave up on anchoring. Going hove to for lunch is quicker and easier.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Have you tried sleeping like that?
Justin: I would suggest that you something like a U-bolt in the anchor locker, tie off the bitter end to the bolt, lead the rode through the roller, around the stanchion, and then back to the locker. Then you launch the anchor aft of the stanchion and play out the rode over the roller, with no possibility of losing it all in the process.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Bristle</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br />I gave up on anchoring. Going hove to for lunch is quicker and easier.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Have you tried sleeping like that?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Why would I drop anchor at the slip when I sleep? That would seem to be a bit on the overly cautious side.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Bristle</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br />I gave up on anchoring. Going hove to for lunch is quicker and easier.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Have you tried sleeping like that?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Why would I drop anchor at the slip when I sleep? That would seem to be a bit on the overly cautious side. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I too always sleep at the slip, I want my 110v.
Dave, that will probably work. The problem though is when pulling in the rode using the roller, it would all be inside the pulpit. I would then have to pull it out from outside the pulpit and bring it back around. I need to get out there and try it a few more times and find a good method. I've been meaning to get a U-bolt for securing the bitter end, but just haven't gotten around to it yet. I've been enjoying all the sailing with no projects since I finally completed a ton of work and launched 7/1! In this photo you can see how I'll then just have the bitter end resting over the lifeline after the pulpit.
One concern I had though is leading the rode off at an angle from the roller is the abrasion against the edges of the fitting. I've thought about maybe getting a piece of hose to wrap around the rode in that section. Any ideas or recommendations?
Justin: I'm not sure my suggestion was clear... As I picture it, when you hoist the anchor, you'd haul in the rode, laying it into the locker until you get the anchor just about up to the roller, reach around the stanchion, grab the anchor or chain, pull it around the stanchion, and stow in in the locker. So you'd have that loop around the stanchion when you're sailing, and would launch the anchor from behind the stanchion.
I presume your chafe issue has to do with the angle from the roller to the bow cleat. Can you fit a chock right behind the roller?
I'd also suggest for a Danforth-type anchor putting some rubber or nylon tips on the end of the stock (not the flukes). As short as that roller is, if the anchor is turning on the rode as it approaches the roller, the stock can chip the hull. Similarly, I took a tip from somebody here and used tennis balls with a little hole cut in each to fit over the ends of the stock before stowing the anchor.
I have attached an inexpensive swivel snap shackle, like the Attwood brand you get at Walmart or Home Depot, to the end of my anchor line. Before deploying the anchor, I clip the shackle onto one of the rings near the base of the bow pulpit. Then I can toss the anchor without worrying about losing the whole thing. Since I don't have a bow anchor roller, after playing out enough scope, I simply tie the line off on one of the bow cleats.
Dave, now I understand what you were saying. Leaving the loop of rode around the pulpit would make it easier, but it would be a little unsightly. I might try it next time and see. I'll look into a chock and the rubber caps on the tips of the anchor is a good idea. I was very careful the couple times when raising the anchor, especially with my painted hull. I would hate to scratch it, especially since the scratches into the white gel coat really show up on my navy blue top sides.
David's idea of using a snap shackle may be good as well. That would take care of the problem I mentioned in my last post where the rode would need to be taken outside of the pulpit. If the bitter end was secured, then I would not be able to take the rode in and out of the pulpit. With the clip I could remove it and take all the rode from one side of the pulpit through the other. I think I'll try that next time with a spare clip I have.
Has anybody built a nice wooden extension off the front of the vessel? I've seen a few on the stinkpots in the marina. Not really a bowsprit but, more like a swim platform kind of thing about a foot wide and maybe extend 18" forward of the bow. Then, the anchor could be mounted there. Not real sure how I'd secure it to the boat but, there's a lot of engineer types on this site that can solve that problem. Randy might find a Stainless Steel solution.
Still doesn't solve the problem of the chain/rode competing with the furler for space though.
The art of anchoring is in fact one of the most required skills on a boat. If you are only dropping a hook once a year, you will be in big trouble the day you need to deploy it and life gets difficult when it doesn't do what it is supposed to do.
My advice is get used to the idea of dropping the hook on one side or the other, who said it had to run past the furler? a stock rode with 15 feet of chain will work as a lunch hook with a 13 lb. Danforth. Add 25 feet of chain to make an overnight hook... Easy peasey... KNOW HOW TO DEPLOY and be ready to do so when your engine conks out unexpectedly, etc... I just had to rescue a fellow sailor who was trying to sail up to their mooring ball and missed after several attempts. i heard them on 16 hailing SeaTow and decided I could hand their pennant up to them as they passed and save them $500... BUT, my first response would have been to drop a hook and figure out the engine, eh? Real sailors throw a hook!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by redviking</i> <br />The art of anchoring is in fact one of the most required skills on a boat. If you are only dropping a hook once a year, you will be in big trouble the day you need to deploy it and life gets difficult when it doesn't do what it is supposed to do.
My advice is get used to the idea of dropping the hook on one side or the other, who said it had to run past the furler? Sten
PO Zephyr C25 FK SR #3220 SV Lysistrata - C&C 39 - www.svlysistrata.com <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I guess the anchor roller, and rode hause molded into the anchor locker cover that would lead one to go off the bow; that and not wanting to hunt. In an emergency I would toss the anchor over what ever I needed to in order to stop the boat. Fortunately I sail where lee shores are gentle silt bottoms so I will usually have all the time I need. I have ordered new hardware so I can move my furling line to port and look forward to a better system, I am toying with the idea of a padeye with a ratchet block between the locker and roller so I can haul while standing and still have it lead fairly to the roller.
Good info guys. I am often second guessing my instincts to 'keep it simple' which in this case means an ongoing struggle with opting for furling or sticking with hank-on. We love to anchor and gunk-hole, and this was one of the reasons I decided not to go with roller-furling. A neighbour has an anchor bucket attached to their pulpit. Great piece of gear, but I don't like the looks of it hanging out there.
I'm about to order a new jib, staying with hank-on.
The reality is that the biggest shortcoming of the C25 is the lack of chocks and/or clearance for any kind of straight up mooring system. I've complained about it many times... This contributes to her hunting, another complaint. With an anchor roller, you will still run a snubber which divides the load to one side or the other - that is if you are running all chain. On most C25's that I have seen, there is no way to divide the load, AND the lack of a chock and the deep cleat attachment point are major danger bob's... that being said, we rode out 46 knots on two hooks last summer. Run chaffing gear long enough to cover the hull and she will sit all nice and purty even when getting pounded... lee cloths... gotta have em...
Forgot one other point - I never had a problem with the furler and the anchor, I just dropped to one side or the other. I favored the starboard side as the anchor locker opens to port on my old 82.
I still hank on and use the bow roller for tie off and breaking loose from the bottom but lowering and raising the anchor from the starboard side behind the pulpit is my practice. I can still clean the mud and animal life by dousing the chain and anchor up and down before laying it in the anchor locker. You do have to be careful not to let the anchor be pulled into the hull. Practice practice and when single handing be prepared to suspend the stowing if there is not enough sea room. Yes I'm late with my 2 cents but Justin in the picture aren't you a little close to the powerboat?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.