Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
After much debate between the Admiral and I, we have figured out a good potential location of our new solar panel. I would appreciate your input on the pros-cons.
The plan is to mount the panel (approx 24" square) on the Aft Mast support post.
I'll replace the existing roller bolt with a longer version, then mount two arms pointing aft from the roller bolt and attach to the underside of the panel. Then use a rail clamp to hold the lower end of an articulated arm that connects from the underside of the panel to the mast support post.
The middle of the articulated arm will have a wing nut to facilitate vertical angle adjustment.
This setup will allow us to rotate the panel 360 degrees horizontally and 90 degrees vertically. In reality the 360 will be limited somewhat by the bimini frame. But we could always increase the height of the mast support pole (it's a two part pole, the top is 1" SS tube which slides into the lower part of the pole.)
I'm in the process of installing a 125 watt solar panel on my 250 this week. I to will be mounting it on the aft mast support. I had a new tube fab'ed with cross bracing. This is all removalable for trailering. Once I get the system completed I will email pictures to you and post on the forum. Please feel free to contact me offline at Larry.skipper@gmail.com Cordially, Larry DRake
For those of you whose power requirements are minimal, i.e. just interior lights, running lights, and o/b electric starter, I installed a 5 watt solar trickle charger panel from the rear of my starboard catbird seat and fed the wire down to a sealed gel Group 24 battery. I did this a year ago and the battery has stayed topped ever since, despite weekly day and night use. The piece of white pvc is the handle on the line to disengage the engine tilt lever. I just pull on the line and ease the engine down; an Arlyn mod adjustment.
I don't have any dock power, so I got a 5 w. panel from Harbor freight for about $39.00. I have it attached to the Gas tank locker lid with heavy duty velcro. The size and shape of the panel is just about right to cover the lid. The 5w. panel seems to take care of our day to day needs, fm radio, VHF radio, depth meter, motor starter etc. we use the boat nearly every day, but stay on board infrequently.
Bill c250wb #134 Serendipity on beautiful Kerr Lake, N.C.
Paul could you make a drewring of this please? I find the concept quit ingenius and will surely try the same. I'd just like to keep it simple without loosing the ability to adjust the angle any which way I want. I'll probably end up just having it sit on top and leveled with only a forward and backward pivot. The reason is that the boat will be on a mooring ball and who knows where the wind will point the boat to? I think I'll the most efficient average would be to keep it leveled.
Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 03/21/2008 19:11:37
Paul, what you have in mind sounds like a [url="http://www.solarstik.com/"]Solar Stik[/url] (note the optional transom mount--would that work on a 250?).
Placed my order for the panel and regulator yesterday. 12v 24w resin bodied monocrystaline 36 cell solar panel Morningstar PS15M Prostar regulator with meter.
The panel support will look something like this. (not to scale )
My current plan is to run the supply line into the hull where the engine power-line is located, then up under the gunwhales stbd side to the cabin power panel. I'll add a new power panel box to hold the old panel and the new regulator. Using beefed up cables to minimize voltage drop from the panel to the box and back to the batteries.
Pretty sure the panel could stay horizontal during trailering, but we'll probably swing it down a few degrees.
Will add an in-line disconnect so that we can remove the panel when needed.
Working on a rotational control so that we can turn it 360degrees.
Paul, you can use SS bimini fittings for your articulating joints and then can use 1" SS tubing for the arms. Easy fabrication. Well, easy for me to say!
Maybe the next (August) Mainsheet C250 Tech article could feature these solar panel setups??
Thanks for the drewring Paul. I couldn't visualize the setup from your earlier description. I REALLY like it. I also really like Tom's installation. Your design makes a lot of sense and is simple. Just a note that my hard link connects to the rudder using the L bar on the port side which interferes with the support post. I will have to move this to the startboard side.
Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 03/24/2008 10:41:28
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Randy, even though I'm concerned that you'll have to go buy some drool bibs, I have to post this link...
Paul, I bought the components for my soon-to-be-announced Nauti Duck Mast-A-Matic from that site! It is indeed a fine site for metals. I also like the site Tom posted.
The mounts on the website link you provided, the ones with the twist knobs, are also avaialable thru West Marine. I have not done a price check but back in 2005 when I made my solar panel mounts, those were the mounts I used off the stern rail.
Ok Steve, you'll have to post a pic of the hardlink interferance issue. Our mast support is to stbd of the rudder, our hardlink is well clear (aft) of the post.
Larry, those rail mounts look as though they will work for me too. Thanks.
Sorry about that! I just viewed my video and see no problem. Don't think I'm on drugs but there must be a reason why I remember this. So my L-BAR is to startboard. So you are to Port right? Have you tried with the support post and your hard link? I think they will hit.
My solar panel is mountedlike Frank's except that the support rods are under the catbird seats. Works beautifully. No problems, out of the way. Had to explain to kids that it was not a diving board, though.
Instead of that articulated arm why not use a telescopic aluminium painter's stick? I just saw an old one in my basement and thought it would look great for your application. The largest part is about 1" and the top that slides into the 1" is about 3/4". You could cut both ends off and use it as is. The turnable lock (blue) takes only 1/4 of a turn to lock up, not big at all and even fits with your colors.
Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 03/26/2008 19:09:27
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.