Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Ok, the new engine arrived today via FedEx in a giant cardboard box with the biggest polystyrene inserts I've ever seen.
Step one was to mount it on the transom (on the boat at the side of the house). I must be in better shape than I thought, managed it ok on my own.
Step two... Read the Very Fine Manual!!!! (paying particular attention to oil requirements )
On page 21 of the manual it states <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Disconnect the battery cord of the EF* or EP type engine, if the engine will not be used for more than 3 days<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> <font size="1">*We have the EF model</font id="size1">
Being as the battery cord is fed though the rounddown and into the trunk and then connected directly to the batteries, this is no small task. I'm wondering why they would stipulate that? In our case the boat will be out of the water between trips.
I'm also looking at the TinyTach device posted in another thread.
I was able to position the engine a little more to stbd than the 2005 model. This reduces the chance that the throttle joint will hit the fuel locker and yet the gear tab on the front of the engine just clears the rounddown.
I positioned it so that the engine does not touch anything either side of the transom mounting when the engine is in the tilted up position and in the down position will swivel fully to port and stbd. Had to make a fine adjustment so that the gear tab would not touch the rounddown when the tab is in fwd gear position, otherwise you can imagine that the engine might pop out of gear when steering hard to port as the tab would hit the rounddown and potentially nudged into neutral!
Now I just have to clean up the side of the fuel locker where the old engine scraped it during raising/swivelling.
Paul, Congratulations on your new-new engine. At the risk of a hijack regarding the TinyTach, I just ordered one from their site, I wrote & asked them which one was the right one, and this was their response:
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Hi, I'm interested in one of your Tiny Tach meters for my new Tohatsu 9.8hp four stroke engine. It has two cylinders, but I don't know the firing sequence. Can you assist me in my choice? I think the one I want is the TT226R-1C (resettable), can you confirm?
Thanks!
David Marjorie Newpher to me
Reply
1C is the correct model for your Tohatsu. Best regards, Margie<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">the battery cord is fed though the rounddown and into the trunk and then connected directly to the batteries, this is no small task.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
con grats on the new motor , that was fast !
To disconect the motor you could add a switch w/6 gauge wire ?
put a post by the battery run the wire to were ever you want the switch . (I put mine in the bathroom above the head ).
I was never absolutely sure why, but I thought an on-off battery switch was a good idea--to turn off when not aboard so there was no electrical potential in the engine components... although I don't recall Honda recommending it. In my C-25, I put posts in the quarterberth area near the engine, and the switch in the galley by the companionway. Apparently it was a good idea.
Mine has been wired right to the battery for 3yrs. I have not had any issues with current drain. I also want to make sure that there is always a load for the alternator. Some engines can be damaged if the alternator is run unloaded or switched to a load while running. Being the forgetful type, hardwired to the battery is the ticket for me.
Paul, congrats on the new motor. Now you have piece of mind. Probably gonna take her out this weekend if not sooner! Just take your time-cant hurt to double check. I have my Honda with transom mount. Had to have my son help to remove, that sucker weighs 120lbs. I keep Piseas II in a slip and motor is always connected to battery which is always hooked up to shore power. But in SoCal, I sail couple times a month, if not more. Steve A
Tom, the Nissan manual advises not to disconnect the battery when the engine is runing to avoid damage to the engine electrical system.
Steve, you got it right, we'll take JD out this weekend for a short weekend trip (Launch Sat return Sun) I'll add the switch next week. (and the new bildge pump system too.)
I have never run any engine dry except at haul out, I don't even disconnect the fuel line. Two stroke, four stroke, no difference, I have always left them hooked up. I don't like the fuel on my hands and have never seen any adverse effects from it. I think there are a lot of "old" ideas that just seem to hang around. Just my experience and opinion.
My Nissan arrived today as well. The short shaft was easy to mount on the dingy. Not sure how I am going to get the extra long shaft out to the boat on the mooring. My nightmare is dropping it in the water. I think when I do it, I will rig a line from the mast or boom to the motor just in case I slip or something. Congrats on getting yours. They sure look nice. If you get a chance to post a picture of yours mounted on the transom, please do. It would help me out a lot.
I use to run my outboard dry and I also always use either Startron or Stabil in the gas tank as a precaution against old fuel and water issues.
However, based on the frequency of sailing each week and comments received on this Forum, I now do not run the outboard dry. Sometimes, I even turn it off just before I am completely in the dock. But I do disconnect the fuel line and put it away.
I guess the thought behind running the gas out of the outboard had to do tih concern that the gas would eventually form deposits in the outboard that would clog/interfere with operation and also maybe mor eprone to forming water. But there is probably a greater chance of forming water in the lines when they are dry based on condensation, etc. Also, if the outboard is used frequently and/or Startron or Stabil is used, there is little chance that the gas deposits forming and clogging the narrow passages in the outboard. In any case, I have had no issues not running it dry.
Do not try to mount you engine from the dinghy.....unless you have a large stable platform. I have used a 14 foot flat bottom skiff and it was still dicey. Much better to do from a dock. Now that you have a dingy engine, you could use the dink to move the boat under calm conditions.
A Honda outboard mechanic here told me <i>not</i> to run my 8 or my 2 dry--that it was better to keep <i>treated</i> gas in the carb to avoid varnishing and clogging from the evaporated residue. I use Startron and Marine StaBil (the new stuff).
Best of luck with your new motor. When I received my Nissan 9.8 it came with an 800 cc bottle of oil for use with the motor. Others said they didn't get the bottle of oil. I wondered if they didn't find it in all the stuffing that came with the motor. I mention this for another reason, that being the difficulty in finding ano ther 800 cc bottle needed when refilling the motor after storing it. Seems everything oil comes in is quart size or 1000cc. I have difficulty poring off the excess from these bottles when trying to load the 800cc that the motor requires. Wish I had kept the old bottle, and wondering if you received an 800 cc bottle of oil with your motor.
Way Cool Paul!! Congrads! Whether you run your carburetor dry or not in salt water it's mandatory (if you don't want salt deposits in your cooling system) to run fresh water through your motor. I do run my carb dry with my two stroke, after a while the gas and oil will separate and then you get the build up in the carb bowl, jets, etc., but with a four stroke it wouldn't seem to be necessary.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by SCnewbie</i> <br /> Not sure how I am going to get the extra long shaft out to the boat on the mooring. My nightmare is dropping it in the water. I think when I do it, I will rig a line from the mast or boom to the motor just in case I slip or something. Congrats on getting yours. They sure look nice. If you get a chance to post a picture of yours mounted on the transom, please do. It would help me out a lot. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I am in a slip and used the dock to help me mount my motor. It was a bear for me(I am an old fart) but if you are a young strong stud, its no problem. Guess you are gonna transfer from dinghy to boat and boat to transom or mount. Either way, use rope or something and tie motor to boat. Make sure everything is straight and lined up. Don't use dinghy to mount. Also is there anyway to get to the dock w/o motor and then install motor? If you have any other questions, ask first. You have big investment there. And Dave, my Honda service manager also told me not to run motor dry. When I return from sail, I top flush motor(every time) but leave gas line connected. He recommended flushing while motor is still warm. Steve A
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">When I received my Nissan 9.8 it came with an 800 cc bottle of oil for use with the motor. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">FWIW, my Tohatsu (Nissan's are identical except decals) came with no oil, I had to go get some for it.
Paul and SCNewbie: It is important that you do not overfill. mine didn't come with the 800 cc bottle either, and I checked all of the packing material. The lower unit, however, was full of gear oil. If using a quart bottle, pour in about 2/3 to 3/4 of the quart and check the dipstick. That should get you very close to full. If still short, pour in a little bit more and check again. DO NOT OVERFILL, DO NOT OVERFILL. SCNewbie: If at all possible, get your boat to an empty slip and put it in stern first so the mount is close to the dock. Then it will be relatively easy to ease it off the end of the dock onto the mount. The motor weighs about 93 lbs. Helps also to have someone on the boat to guide the bracket onto the mount's board.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Bristle</i> <br />A Honda outboard mechanic here told me <i>not</i> to run my 8 or my 2 dry--that it was better to keep <i>treated</i> gas in the carb to avoid varnishing and clogging from the evaporated residue. I use Startron and Marine StaBil (the new stuff). <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Interesting -- when the mechanic gave me the official orientation to my new Honda 9.9, he told me to run it dry at the end of the day.
Thanks for the advice everyone. I went out on the new Baltik inflatable today to check on the boat before I went into work. The Tohatsu 9.8 is a nice engine. So quiet and smooth. Following the break in schedule, I can't get up to full throttle for another hour and half of use but to be honest, at 1/4 throttle with just me in the dink I was on plane. I'd be afraid of full throttle with just me aboard.
I figure I will tow my old RIB behind me out to the boat and lower the old motor into it using the main halyard. Then I thought I would use my halyard as a safety tether attached to the new motor and move it over the side onto the cockpit bench. From there, Mounting it shouldn't be too hard. I can lift it pretty well. The other option like was pointed out will be to tow the sailboat with my dingy to a dock somewhere and do it there. I would prefer to do this but I am a bit nervous towing the sailboat with the dingy. If I can round up some help then I really think it will be simple process on the mooring. I can hand it up to the sailboat from the dingy. I think I will see what the weather is doing on monday and if the current is going the right way and it is calm, I will tow the sailboat the mile or so to the public launch ramp with floating docks. You guys are right about not losing it over the side. It is an expensive motor but after running with the one on the dingy, I am pretty excited to have that quiet engine on the sailboat.
SC, a new sailboat, dinghy and 2 new outboard motors. Did you just win lotto? And a FYI, I too have 9.5 Baltik with 6.0 Tohatsu. I love both. I tow dinghy with engine mounted on it in mild seas over 30 miles w/o problems. Some will say otherwise but I want a life-raft ready to go. So how about lashing dinghy to side of boat and motoring 1 mile to dock and install new motor? Steve A
Just remember that using the mainsheet as a tether/lifting line, your boom-end will be at least a foot in from your transom, and make sure your topping lift will handle the weight of the motor.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...from now on <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Paul, you've done you penance and we've all learned an important lesson. No more need for the unhappy face. Now, go have some fun with that new outboard and your wonderful Admiral!!!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.