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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Single Backstay-Mainsheet-Furler Control

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528
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181 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/15/2008 : 10:07:42

This is my mod for the single backstay. It is so much easier working around the wheel now. The second pic shows the mainsheet moved forward. This works well for someone sitting with their back to the cabin. I originally did it to gain area for a yet to be installed bimini. Cabin access is a matter of accepting change. (kinda like backing into the head....

) You can also see the furling control line block attached to the port seat. I single hand from the helm with little effort. This configuration also keeps lines out of the cockpit for unobstructed lounging

Edited by - 528 on 06/15/2008 10:08:26

piseas
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Response Posted - 06/15/2008 : 10:17:51

Dave, how far forward did you move the mainsheet attachment point on the boom? I was thinking about an inch but yours looks much more than that. I have same issue with bimini, which I MUST also cover stern rail seats.
Steve A

Edited by - piseas on 06/15/2008 10:18:34

528
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181 Posts

Response Posted - 06/15/2008 : 10:31:30

Steve, I moved it to a point where the sheet is parallel with the cabin wall when centered. When you let the boom out, the sheet clears the upper area of the cabin. This is as far as I would go anyway, to keep the sail from chafing on the spreader.

Edited by - on

SEAN
Admiral

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772 Posts

Response Posted - 06/15/2008 : 11:13:45

Very nice !!

I like it moved to the side (the backstay)!

Edited by - SEAN on 06/15/2008 11:14:27

Nautiduck
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Response Posted - 06/15/2008 : 11:28:55

I like the backstay change. Why did you decide to go through the catbird seat rather than just to the outside of it as in the original split backstay? Looks like you went to the same connection point.

Edited by - on

528
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181 Posts

Response Posted - 06/15/2008 : 11:40:22

That is the straightest run to the masthead. It is slightly deflected by the seat, but much less than trying to go around. If it were a bigger boat, I probably would not do it, but our upper shrouds take alot of the load.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
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1091 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 00:45:03

You got my vote for "mod of the year" since this really fixes a huge problem I have. I should be receiving my new 6' bimini this week. Before I pierce holes in it to let the backstay through I think I'm going to really have a good look at doing this mod on my backstay. Currently I have an adjustable backstay which splits to a single cable. The SS cable (right over the Y split) has a turnbuckle. I think all I need to do is get rid of everything after the turnbuckle and connect (to the turnbuckle) a new SS cable running all the way down to the stern.

Instead of attaching to the regular stern attachment point, why not attach to the starboard catbird seat?

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 06/16/2008 00:47:04

frogger
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Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 03:10:19

I just switched my split backstay on my 2000 WK over to the outside of the catbird seat on the starboard side It really opens up the cockpit and allows for a larger, easier to use bimini.

Edited by - on

528
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181 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 06:29:23

Steve, if you pull back and forth on the stern seat, you will see some flexing. I feel that over time, you will induce unwanted stress at the seat attachment area. Of course the higher up on the seat you attach, the greater the leverage, and flexing. I didn't like the tradeoff. The cable is not much of an issue when sitting in the seat. I also get a stout attachment point for adjusting the turnbuckle. Any pressure applied to the seat currently would be a lifting moment spread between the two forward seat attachments and balanced by a compression on the rear attachment point.

Edited by - on

SEAN
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772 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 08:52:46

on the new models there is a pad eye on the floor on the ladder side ,
Im thinking putting a pad eye on the engine side .

I like attaching to the stern seats , but Im trying to set up for spinnaker flying .
and I think the floor mount would be a safer bet .

my 2$

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
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1091 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 10:53:41

You all have good points fellas. It's difficult to say without proper testing and load calculations (engineering). I too will probably be flying a spinnaker. Also as I recall the catbird seat attachement was on both seats at the same time distributing the force load 50/50. So not to induce a leveraging effect I was thinking of attaching the cable so to pull in a linear force (straight line) as much as possible. To do so it seems that the catbird attach point should be about where your left thigh would be (sitting down).

Now adding my own floor pad eye but on the engine side with a huge back plate wouldn't be very difficult, much cleaner and in my opinion safer. Can anyone take a picture of the newer 2008 model on how this padeye is backed up? Can't believe its just 2 little washers holding this.

Edited by - on

528
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181 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 11:58:23

You may want to run a line to simulate your setup before drilling. If you have wheel steering, your access will be limited around the starboard side of the wheel. I looked at many possible locations, including centered in front of the wheel. Our options are limited, with tradeoffs. I just hope Frank and Gerry don't take our tinkering personally

Edited by - on

SCnewbie
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Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 13:02:35

So it doesn't mess anything up with the alignment of the mast getting rid of the split stay and running off center to one side? I'd like to do this on my adjustable split backstay as well. As Arlyn has pointed out, the adjuster doesn't do much and I don't race anyway. It definately would make my bimini install much easier.

Edited by - on

SEAN
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772 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 18:18:55

I have a piece of rope tied around the split , that i pull down on .
it firms the rig up . Its nice to have it firmed up on windy days.

I think a split is the best its still only as strong as one .

Making a piece from the split down should keep cost down .

If it works on one side it should work on the other ?

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
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Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 20:07:07

For sure, if it works on the 2008 on the port side why would it be any different on the startboard side? When people here saw that the 2008 floor pad eye was set on the port side they all wondered "What were they thinking?".

528: I agree with you, I'll try different positions first. Now that I think about it the way you attached yours makes a lot of sense to me.

Stupid question time: I'm going to take picture of the Y split Wednesday. Meanwhile I wonder how I will go about buying the right length of SS cable with "pins" on both ends? How does it work, I'm guessing they must be soldered on or something no?

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 06/16/2008 20:13:33

SEAN
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Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 20:14:08

Im thinking use one or two halyards to hold the mast back ,
then undo the backstay measure /put back quick .

West marine has a rigging section ,
or good time to find a local guy for a small job

Edited by - on

SEAN
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Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 20:16:24

Please dont try this at home !

just thinking out loud !

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
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Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 20:17:20

LOL I was thinking of using my Main Halyard in that very specific way. I will attach the mast with the Halyard as extra precaution, but will keep the starboard backstay connected.

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 06/16/2008 20:18:27

Steve Blackburn
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Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 20:23:50

I can't find the rigging section on West Marine or Defender. Where the hell can I buy the cable?

Edited by - on

SEAN
Admiral

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772 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 20:37:09

p1167 there custom orders .

Edited by - on

528
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181 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 20:41:37

Steve you will need to have the ends swaged by a rigging shop. If you have a West Marine store, call them and ask who the local riggers are. As far as the cable length, you would go up the mast and run a line between attach points to be sure it is acurate. Take into account the turnbuckle(open/closed) length and attaching point hardware distances. Lower your mast and install the new one.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
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Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 21:59:34

I'm thinking of doing this with the mast up as the boat is in it's slip. To measure I was thinking of doing the following:

1. With my backstay firmly adjusted the way I like it, attach main halyard to starboard catbird seat to keep the mast stiff.
2. Detach port side backstay.
3. Turnbuckle to nearly 3/4 open (to compensate for the slack, plan is to have it 1/2 way once settled).
4. Attach string/rope to the end of the turnbuckle (precisly)
5. Pull backstay (with rope) towards starboard pad eye in a straight line to take measurement (with a knot).
6. Measure rope.
7. Reattach backstay.

This way I believe I will get the exact measurement I need. I'll let the riggers figure out the exact length the SS cable needs to be factoring in swags, pins and whatever.

What do you think?

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 06/16/2008 22:01:35

piseas
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Response Posted - 06/17/2008 : 17:48:49

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by 528
 Steve, I moved it to a point where the sheet is parallel with the cabin wall when centered. When you let the boom out, the sheet clears the upper area of the cabin. This is as far as I would go anyway, to keep the sail from chafing on the spreader.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Dave, that is an interesting traveler setup. My 03 is mounted in front of entrance to cabin. Did you move that too?
Steve A

Edited by - on

528
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181 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2008 : 18:27:01

That is the factory setup for the water ballast. I moved the boom attach point forward to allow for a larger bimini and it allows for better lounging against the cabin on a reach or rum.

Edited by - on

soulfinger
1st Mate

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USA
29 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2008 : 21:54:33

Another option--I just saw a 250 that was modded to have twin backstays--they were run to pad eyes on the tops of the coamings. It really cleared up some space in the cockpit, and made a bimini more do-able.

Edited by - on

britinusa
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Response Posted - 06/18/2008 : 14:33:16

The backstay on the 2005 WB model is a real pain! As mentioned, the pad eye is on the deck at the port side walk through, our bimini has a zipped hole to cater for the backstay.

My mod is to remove the existing backstay, add two new backstays that have pelican hooks with secure tubes, attached to the eyes for the lifelines on the catbird seats. I ran a line from the mast head to those points and they barely touch the bimini, the masthead is wide enough to fit two stays.

It will add belt and braces to the setup, remove the snagging risk at the port side of the helm, and make raising the mast easier than fiddling with the stays turnbuckle.

This mod is moving up my list of TTDs.

Paul

Edited by - on

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