Association Forum - where to mount battery fuses

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

where to mount battery fuses

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

Page: of 2

jhinton
Navigator

Member Avatar

USA
123 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/05/2010 : 08:02:02

When we bought our '82 C-25 it did not have any battery protection near the batteries themselves and I'm going to be installing some fuses near them (I believe within 7" according to ABYC).

I will be using 35 amp ANL fuses by Blue Sea Systems mounted on fuse blocks, one for each of two batteries. In order to be within 7" of the battery, I'm having trouble finding a place to mount the fuse blocks themselves. Does anyone have any suggestions as where to mount them? My batteries are underneath the aft end of the starboard settee. They could be mounted in the same space but it would make things really crowded in there...

1982 C-25, SK/SR, traditional interior

Edited by - on

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

3476 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2010 : 11:58:11

I put mine right next to the battery. Vertical mount and it is a little crowded but I was happy with the result. Added new battery hold downs also.

Edited by - on

jhinton
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
123 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2010 : 14:39:05

What type of fuses do you use Ray? I was planning on using the ANL-type fuses but found smaller MIDI-type fuses when I was at the marine supply store today. They looked much smaller and were much cheaper.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2010 : 20:32:52

I went a different route on Iris. Car audio places sell gold plated fuses that fit a sort of tube-shaped fuseholder so kids with the thumping base that rattles the hell out of your windows when they pull up behind you can have things that look like bullets mounted around their cars. The bullet shaped holders fit nicely in the back of the battery box under the STBD settee.

The battery cable goes into the end of teh fuseholder and makes direct contact with the fuse so there is no crimping or soldering.

It has worked well for two seasons now. I am on freshwater, and these parts have not shown any corrosion. I have kept an eye on them since they didn't come with a "marine" sticker.

As an added bonus, if you blow a fuse and need to replace it, you just have to find a slammed Honda with a big speaker box in the back. Chances are it has the fuse you need someplace onboard.

Edited by - Prospector on 11/06/2010 05:33:35

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

3476 Posts

Response Posted - 11/07/2010 : 05:37:58

Blue sea seafuse block pn 5001 w 100 amp fuse
From west marine

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 11/07/2010 : 06:07:07

Red, you are more knowledgeable than I, but isn't 100 Amps a little large for the application? Ours are 30 amps IIRC, and they haven't ever popped - well except for that one time when I dropped the lead from one battery and landed on the terminal for the other... Got amokey pop that time.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 11/07/2010 : 08:17:14

100 seems awfully high when the peak draw is probably the starter motor for a 10hp engine... What say you, "Voyager", the Marine Double-E?

Check out the Blue Sea 5191 terminal fuse block and matching terminal fuses for various amperages. The block mounts to the battery terminal, and then your battery cable mounts to it.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 11/07/2010 08:40:03

jhinton
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
123 Posts

Response Posted - 11/07/2010 : 09:59:46

Those terminal fuse blocks look like a great idea as they are right on the battery... Can't get much closer! My only concern is how high they stick up above the battery. I would have to measure to see if they would stick up above the top of the settee, therefore not allowing the "lid" to close all the way. Do you have them? And if so, do they stick up very high?

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 11/07/2010 : 11:41:08

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by jhinton
 ...do they stick up very high?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I don't have one, but I think the discussion where I learned about them said they added about 2" to the height of the battery.

Edited by - on

TCurran
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
588 Posts

Response Posted - 11/07/2010 : 14:29:08

Just ordered the Blue Sea 5191 terminal fuse block (from Genuine Dealz.com). Will let you all know how it fits under the settee.

Edited by - on

jhinton
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
123 Posts

Response Posted - 11/07/2010 : 16:35:42

That would be great Tom, thank you. Which interior layout do you have?

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
5369 Posts

Response Posted - 11/07/2010 : 19:38:36

[I realize I'm coming in late on this discussion, but better late than never]

Typical current draw for a starter on a 10 HP engine could be as high as 80A, but typically 60A.

Best way to tell is to check the fuse rating inside your engine - somewhere in the wiring harness feeding from the alternator. It's typically in line on the thickest red, orange or yellow wire (#8 or #6 AWG).

The starter fuse rating is typically listed in the user manual or, if you have one, in the shop repair manual.

Edited by - Voyager on 11/07/2010 19:41:49

jhinton
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
123 Posts

Response Posted - 11/07/2010 : 20:39:19

I can understand using an 80-100 amp fuse on the outboard wires but I think something more around 30-35 amps would be more appropriate on the house lines. No?

Edited by - on

TCurran
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
588 Posts

Response Posted - 11/08/2010 : 03:52:36

jhinton, not sure what the correct term is, but I do not have the dinette interior, my table folds up against the bulkhead next to the compression post.

Edited by - on

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

3476 Posts

Response Posted - 11/08/2010 : 04:31:01

100 amps works for me. Just trying to keep the boat from burning down. It has lasted 25 years without a fuse. Id rathers have a fuse that will not pop unless it really neefs to and i can use this fuse if i add a motor with a starter. Im not protecting from my draw which might only be 5 amps. Im protecting myself from a short.

Edited by - on

glen
Captain

Members Avatar

359 Posts

Response Posted - 11/08/2010 : 10:31:12

I have the starter wired separate from the house current. For the house current I use a 30 amp automotive stile Blade fuse. The inline water proof holder is directly connected to the battery. Cost for fuse holder is under $3.00 at Radio Shack. I probably should consider some type of protection for the outboard

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
5369 Posts

Response Posted - 11/08/2010 : 15:40:25

Good idea to have two sets of fuses with (1) a 60, 80 or 100 amp fuse protecting the wire going to the electric starter and (2) 20-30 amp fuse going to the power distribution panel.

This can reduce the amount of alternator "whine" which can be audible on audio components (FM radio, amplifier, VHF) and undervoltaging your cabin electronics due to high charging currents raising the ground potential at the panel.

This is for a single battery system.

Elsewhere, I described the wiring for a two battery system through the 1-2-Both-off switch in another thread, but the net was to connect your house battery through a 30 amp fuse to the switch position 1, connect your 2nd battery through a 30 amp fuse to the switch position 2, and connect your 2nd battery directly to the starter/alternator through an 60-80 amp fuse. When recharging, simply set your switch on "Both" and both batteries will equalize and be recharged by your alternator.

Edited by - on

mikes user name
Deckhand

Members Avatar

USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 11/09/2010 : 21:38:14

Other than cost, Is there a reason no one seems to talk about using circuit breakers instead of fuses? It seems the protection would still be there, but much easier to reset once the problem is resolved. In my case the panel could be mounted next to the companionway stairs on the quarter berth, within one foot or so of the batteries. Any thoughts?

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 11/09/2010 : 23:20:06

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by mikes user name
 Other than cost, Is there a reason no one seems to talk about using circuit breakers instead of fuses? It seems the protection would still be there, but much easier to reset once the problem is resolved. In my case the panel could be mounted next to the companionway stairs on the quarter berth, within one foot or so of the batteries. Any thoughts?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Yup. Circuit breakers are mechanical devices that are subject to corrosion in a marine environment. Fuses are sealed and rely on no mechanical action, and therefore are much more reliable. I have breakers in my house--never on my boat.

Edited by - on

TCurran
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
588 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2010 : 19:19:06

Received my Blue Sea 5191 terminal fuse block yesterday and installed it today, no issues with the height. It fit in the battery box and the settee closed.

Edited by - on

jhinton
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
123 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2010 : 07:00:20

Thanks Tom, I think I might go that way instead. I found that they make a dual-fuse model too which I could put a smaller fuse for the house load and a larger for the motor. Thanks!

Edited by - on

sweetcraft
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2010 : 21:54:36

I like the idea of fuses close as possible to the battery. Mine are in the battery box and I do have to remove the top to replace. Having a battery switch I can try the other battery for power. The replacement fuses are next to the battery box which should cut the search time. I like to use the electrolyte grease on connections to cut down the corrosion.

Edited by - on

skrenz
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
351 Posts

Response Posted - 11/19/2010 : 09:38:31

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by redeye
 Blue sea seafuse block pn 5001 w 100 amp fuse
From west marine

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

80 or 100 amp fuse??? I assume then that you have at least #6 gauge wire (10% voltage drop) going to your engine starter from this fuse. If not, you are defeating the purpose of the fuse. Fuses protect the wire. That's their only job in life. If you size a fuse on any kind of circuit larger than the load the wire it protects can safely carry, you haven't protected anything because the wire will break before the fuse will blow. IMHO the correct approach is to find out just what the starter amperage draw is and then size the wire and fuse accordingly.

The same is true for the house circuit. The fuse should be sized to protect the wire going from the battery to the 1-2-Both-off switch and from there to the breaker panel. If you want to pass 30 amps it needs to be #10 wire (3% voltage drop and less than 20 feet) and a 30 amp fuse to protect that size wire. Other amperage values you figure similarly but in all cases, the fuse is based on the size of the wire not on whether you think it will be tripping too often.

Edited by - on

jhinton
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
123 Posts

Response Posted - 11/19/2010 : 10:08:30

At least for my setup, the PO had installed 4 gauge wire from the outboard starter to the battery so an 80 amp fuse should be plenty of protection for that circuit.

Edited by - on

jhinton
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
123 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2010 : 12:59:49

I decided to go with the terminal fuses like Tom and they fit just fine. I used one of the dual-terminal blocks so I could have two different sizes of fuses on one battery for my outboard. They're a great solution, especially since they're literally on the battery, well within ABYC's 7 inch rule. Thanks to all who gave recommendations, much appreciated!

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
5369 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2010 : 20:13:13

Okay - so after all the debate, what size fuse did you end up using on the starter circuit? What size fuse for the house circuit?

I would have guessed 60A and 30A respectively, BUT you could have gone with 25A for the house circuit....

Unless you have an inverter installed.

Edited by - Voyager on 11/20/2010 20:15:06

Page: of 2

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.