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Gearing up for singlehanding

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Unsinkable2
Captain

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USA
273 Posts

Response Posted - 01/27/2013 : 19:47:42

I use a mustang (self inflating, integrated harness). It's comfortable to wear so I'm nottempted to go without it.
I have a small knife clipped to the pfd (locks in its sheath, blunt nose to prevent accidental stab/puncture).
In the pfd, I have a strobe. And when single handing, I clip a spot messenger onto the harness of the pfd. I sail in a lake that is 10 miles wide and 20 miles long, so if I went over, there's a good chance I'd be alone for quite a while. The spot speeds up the rescue. When I single hand, I set the "tracks" feature on, so it broadcasts my position to an online map every 15 minutes - lets family track my progress and see where I am.
For the ladder (I have a C25), I rigged a bungee that holds the ladder up, but it can be released from in the water. I have to replace the bungee once a year due to sun damage, but that's cheap.
Does anyone else use Spot Messengers?

Edited by - on

redviking
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 01/27/2013 : 20:03:57

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TakeFive
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by redviking
 No offence intended, but towing that thing would be like towing a balloon...

Sten
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
No offense taken. You're addressing one of my main concerns with this. What is the minimum weight that you think would be stable towing?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Wrong dinghy... I have towed Zodiacs for years, and even a rib with an outboard flipped on me in a serious blow while waiting for a bridge opening. That been said, a zodiac is much more stable under tow. A good friend of mine used to have a sea eagle with an outboard motor bracket with a wood floor. Was a dog under power and impossible to row. I can only imagine what that would like underway. And the lack of real D rings might just tear it up if you tried to tow it with weight at 5 knots.

Sten

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
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Response Posted - 01/27/2013 : 20:04:36

Back to your harness/tether thing, I prefer separate harness and pfd. A simple pfd is the most inoffensive thing to wear so you will always have it on. The major brands are all satisfactory, but there is a lot of variability in fit and some in buoyancy. The actuator systems vary and older systems get phased out, and that can leave you holding the un-inflated bag. My wife and I have WM pfd, harness, and tether. Try on different brands to see what is comfortable to you, and try on various harnesses with you chosen pfd..

Edited by - on

TakeFive
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2272 Posts

Response Posted - 01/27/2013 : 20:39:55

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave5041
 Back to your harness/tether thing, I prefer separate harness and pfd. A simple pfd is the most inoffensive thing to wear so you will always have it on. The major brands are all satisfactory, but there is a lot of variability in fit and some in buoyancy. The actuator systems vary and older systems get phased out, and that can leave you holding the un-inflated bag. My wife and I have WM pfd, harness, and tether. Try on different brands to see what is comfortable to you, and try on various harnesses with you chosen pfd..
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I already have 3 very nice auto-inflate pfds. You'll see above that I inquired about separate harnesses and was suggested to get an integrated one. Your suggestions is along the lines of what I originally had in mind, so I'll reconsider that option.

Edited by - on

redviking
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Response Posted - 01/27/2013 : 22:05:01

I prefer the wm Pfd with harness, although the previous owner was kind enuf to leave me a couple standard harnesses. Do not buy their tether though. I had one fail on me at O'dark thirty in rough seas. The key ring release is the weak link. I'm pretty sure I wrote that one up here once upon a time. Wichard is the way to go there and Defender has em.

Sten

Edited by - redviking on 01/27/2013 22:07:23

TakeFive
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Response Posted - 02/07/2013 : 15:46:09

I've done some looking around at harnesses and have a pretty good idea what will work underneath my auto-inflate PFD. I'm holding off buying until I'm sure I'll do single-handing and/or there's a sale too good to pass up.

Let me go back to another question from my original post. Can the spare jib halyard be used as an alternative to traditional tether? It seems like it could offer some advantages, and some disadvantages:

Advantages:
- Lots of available motion without having to re-clip
- No trip hazard from a jackline
- Would suspend you above the deck level, so you're not dragged in the water if you fall over the side

Disadvantages:
- In rough seas you could swing around and knock into mast, boom, and shrouds pretty hard
- Shackle attachment less secure, but could probably be upgraded.

The one that has me particularly interested is the fact that you would not go over the side and drag in the water. On boats as narrow as ours, it seems difficult to find a tether that is long enough to allow movement, but is not so long that it allows you to go overboard, especially near the bow where it's narrowest.

I have zero experience with this, so I know I'm making some very naive and inaccurate statements here. Please humor me and fill me in from your actual experience.

Edited by - on

PCP777
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Response Posted - 02/07/2013 : 16:39:03

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TakeFive
 I've done some looking around at harnesses and have a pretty good idea what will work underneath my auto-inflate PFD. I'm holding off buying until I'm sure I'll do single-handing and/or there's a sale too good to pass up.

Let me go back to another question from my original post. Can the spare jib halyard be used as an alternative to traditional tether? It seems like it could offer some advantages, and some disadvantages:

Advantages:
- Lots of available motion without having to re-clip
- No trip hazard from a jackline
- Would suspend you above the deck level, so you're not dragged in the water if you fall over the side

Disadvantages:
- In rough seas you could swing around and knock into mast, boom, and shrouds pretty hard
- Shackle attachment less secure, but could probably be upgraded.

The one that has me particularly interested is the fact that you would not go over the side and drag in the water. On boats as narrow as ours, it seems difficult to find a tether that is long enough to allow movement, but is not so long that it allows you to go overboard, especially near the bow where it's narrowest.

I have zero experience with this, so I know I'm making some very naive and inaccurate statements here. Please humor me and fill me in from your actual experience.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Since you have plenty of time.....
You already have the PFD so you could do what I did for the harvest Moon Regatta and just borrow a harness and a tether from a racing or cruising buddy, that's what I did. A 30 foot jackline is like $75 and is a good thing to have. I ended up not wearing the harness or using the jacklines as I was assigned helm most of the time so I was glad mine wasn't integrated like my buddies had. A normal auto inflate PFD is like wearing nothing so your more apt to keep it on. I did wear the PFD above deck. I don't think I'd want to be attached to a halyard. Do you have roller furling? If so bow time would probably be minimal if you're cruising.

Oh, and a water proof hand held, like the ICOM M34 is really nice to have clipped to your PFD along with a strobe. You might not have your phone on you if you go over.

Edited by - on

PCP777
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Response Posted - 02/07/2013 : 16:43:42

Oh they have a 25 foot one too. The video is worth watching. I would go jacklines for sure. They sit flat on the deck so nobody had any problems tripping on it either. I would run it on the side with your swim ladder.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_11151_10001_36555_-1?ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=36555&cid=sc_googlepla&gclid=CPm2keqtpbUCFVOnPAodyHwA5w#.URQ5rR19J8E

Edited by - PCP777 on 02/07/2013 16:44:48

britinusa
Web Editor

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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 02/07/2013 : 18:28:24

Pity the video does not show the jackline in actual use.

paul

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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3758 Posts

Response Posted - 02/07/2013 : 20:13:45

Sten, WM redid their tethers after a PS test revealed the flaw that you experienced.

Edited by - on

lcharlot
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Antigua and Barbuda
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Response Posted - 02/11/2013 : 22:40:26

My short list of the most useful equipment upgrades for single handing a C-25:
1. Garmin GPS/Sounder on a swing mount in the companionway, so you can use it inside the cabin as well as in the cockpit.
2. Self-tailing winches.
3. Roller furler (I have a CDI #4 Flex Furler).
4. Autopilot (I have a Simrad tiller pilot).
5. Lazy Jacks, to keep the mainsail off the deck.
6. Single-line reefing (works best with standard-batten mainsails, not so good with full-batten due to the stiffness).

Edited by - on

OLarryR
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3478 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 04:40:39

I agree with Don's posting on page 1 that I find for the most part, single-handed sailing easier than with a crew. This is usually the case especially since when with a crew, the crew tends to be those with limited sailing or boat experience.

Things that I find helpful and/or be better prepared for extended time and/or frequency single-handed sailing but not necessarily necessary are:

Furling Jib/Genoa

Fenders connected to the finger slip via SS cables & turnbuckles vs having to put away fenders when going out or putting them alongside each time coming back to the dock (and having ready to use fenders onboard if going to dock away from your normal slip.

Portable VHF Radio - My base radio would require me to go into the cabin to work it or hear it. Some marinas, they use cell phones, others only use the VHF to hale them for seeking dockage.

Ladder line release if ever overboard (Photos somewhere on my website)

Ensure you have easily accesible water/food essentials.

Switch panel that can be worked from the cockpit to turn on NAV, etc lights.

Self-Inflatable PFD

and ....the little red urinal bottle left in the seat locker for that rare occasion when it may be prove useful.

Edited by - on

redviking
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1771 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 05:39:26

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave5041
 Sten, WM redid their tethers after a PS test revealed the flaw that you experienced.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

They should've redone them after I complained. All they did was give me another one. Maybe now they will swap em out. I have two that I will only use in the cockpit. I still like Wichard. The French understand heavy duty sailing gear.

BTW - thanks for the heads up though.

Sten

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5909 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 09:04:28

I have a pair of the Westmarine jacklines. They are polyester, and are rated at 6000# breaking strength, and, at $74. each, they seem awfully expensive. (I bought mine 2-3 years ago, and they weren't that expensive.) I found a 300' roll of 1" polyester web with a breaking strength of 6600# for $45. The only difference that I can see is that the Westmarine jacklines have a loop sewn into one end, that you can drop over a cleat. The other end must be cleated in the same way you would affix any line to a cleat. I don't see any significant benefit from the loop. For the significant price difference, I would cut them to length and seize each end so they don't unravel. You could either use the remaining web for lashing stuff on deck, or perhaps sell it to friends.

6k polyester cargo web

Edited by - Steve Milby on 02/12/2013 09:05:59

TakeFive
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Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 10:17:46

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Steve Milby
 I have a pair of the Westmarine jacklines. They are polyester, and are rated at 6000# breaking strength, and, at $74. each, they seem awfully expensive. (I bought mine 2-3 years ago, and they weren't that expensive.) I found a 300' roll of 1" polyester web with a breaking strength of 6600# for $45. The only difference that I can see is that the Westmarine jacklines have a loop sewn into one end, that you can drop over a cleat. The other end must be cleated in the same way you would affix any line to a cleat. I don't see any significant benefit from the loop. For the significant price difference, I would cut them to length and seize each end so they don't unravel. You could either use the remaining web for lashing stuff on deck, or perhaps sell it to friends.

http://www.shipperssupplies.com/TieDownWebbing/
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I was thinking exactly the same thing. What good does one loop do? If you have to cleat or tie off one end, you might as well do it for both ends. So I had shopped around for some plain polyester webbing on Amazon, but what I found was not high enough tensile rating.

300 ft is way more than I need, and it would just gather dust, so I'll keep looking for a place that would sell me less. But thanks for the tip - I'll call them and see what else they have.

Edited by - TakeFive on 03/17/2013 19:56:12

TakeFive
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Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 10:38:14

Thanks for the extensive list, Larry. Here's where I stand right now vs. your list. Note that I am preparing for occasional singlehanding, not something that I will do regularly:

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by OLarryR
 Furling Jib/Genoa got it

Fenders connected to the finger slip via SS cables & turnbuckles vs having to put away fenders when going out or putting them alongside each time coming back to the dock (and having ready to use fenders onboard if going to dock away from your normal slip.I generally keep them attached to the boat, but have places to tuck them inboard without detaching them

Portable VHF Radio - My base radio would require me to go into the cabin to work it or hear it. Some marinas, they use cell phones, others only use the VHF to hale them for seeking dockage.It's crazy to go below to use the radio, especially in an emergency, so I have a SH RAM3 mic for routine cockpit use. It also displays GPS coordinates, SOG, and a graphical display of AIS targets that I can select and place a direct DSC call (basically identical to the main radio display). I have a tight clearance between my wheel and the split backstays, so a bulky handheld hanging on my belt or PFD would get hung up whenever squeezing past the backstay, so I bought a DryPak for my cellphone and will keep it around my neck. If I go overboard, the phone will come with me.

Ladder line release if ever overboard (Photos somewhere on my website)I have a release line on my ladder :
<center>

</center>

Ensure you have easily accesible water/food essentials.

Switch panel that can be worked from the cockpit to turn on NAV, etc lights. I don't have this, but I do have a wireless autopilot remote that allows me to steer the boat while I go down into the cabin to flip the switch.

Self-Inflatable PFDI routinely wear one

and ....the little red urinal bottle left in the seat locker for that rare occasion when it may be prove useful.Hmm, hadn't thought about that one.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 10:41:10

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by OLarryR
 I agree with Don's posting on page 1 that I find for the most part, single-handed sailing easier than with a crew. This is usually the case especially since when with a crew, the crew tends to be those with limited sailing or boat experience.

Things that I find helpful and/or be better prepared for extended time and/or frequency single-handed sailing but not necessarily necessary are:

Furling Jib/Genoa

Fenders connected to the finger slip via SS cables & turnbuckles vs having to put away fenders when going out or putting them alongside each time coming back to the dock (and having ready to use fenders onboard if going to dock away from your normal slip.

Portable VHF Radio - My base radio would require me to go into the cabin to work it or hear it. Some marinas, they use cell phones, others only use the VHF to hale them for seeking dockage.

Ladder line release if ever overboard (Photos somewhere on my website)

Ensure you have easily accesible water/food essentials.

Switch panel that can be worked from the cockpit to turn on NAV, etc lights.

Self-Inflatable PFD

and ....the little red urinal bottle left in the seat locker for that rare occasion when it may be prove useful.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Couldn't agree more about the furling. Best thing since sliced bread. An autopilot would eliminate the need to have the water/food, nav lights, and urine bottle within reach in the cockpit. Going "hove to" works as well.

Edited by - on

TakeFive
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Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 10:44:33

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by PCP777
 [quote]Originally posted by TakeFive
 ...Do you have roller furling? If so bow time would probably be minimal if you're cruising...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I think pretty much all C250s come with furlers, so I have one. If everything works right, I should never have to go forward. But I need to be prepared to go forward if the furler malfunctions, and it will inevitably happen at the worst possible moment. My furler has always worked perfectly, but I chartered a boat with an improperly installed furler that jammed frequently, and ended up going forward every time we unfurled the sail. We ended up sailing on main alone a couple times because conditions were too rough to go forward, and the boat had no jacklines.

Edited by - TakeFive on 02/12/2013 11:04:03

TakeFive
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Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 10:52:36

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 [quote]
...An autopilot would eliminate the need to have the water/food, nav lights, and urine bottle within reach in the cockpit. Going "hove to" works as well.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Got the autopilot, and for Christmas got a wireless remote that will allow me steer/tack from the companionway while cranking the cabintop winches.

Heaving to is a little less beneficial in the river currents because of the risk of drifting into buoys, bridge foundations, and other fixed hazards.

Edited by - on

PCP777
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
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Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 10:59:38

Sounds like you're pulling it all together, have a great voyage!

Edited by - on

redviking
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 11:59:40

On my vessel, the jacklines have a loop on one end that goes over the forward cleats. Then there is a smaller loop on the aft end that is sewn around a shackle that goes onto a padeye mounted on each side of the cockpit. Obviously a custom installation, but what I like about it is that it keeps all the other gear freed up which wouldn't be possible if you use an aft cleat. My jacklines are as tight as a banjo string when dry. To get them just enough slack to get them off you have to wet them down. If I was going to do a custom install like that, I would sew em up at their tightest point when wet. That way you know there isn't any slack.

Thanks for the link Steve. It's time for me to replace mine. I like my safety gear fresh.

Sten

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 12:39:53

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TakeFive
 Got the autopilot, and for Christmas got a wireless remote that will allow me steer/tack from the companionway while cranking the cabintop winches.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Although your experience may differ, I've had an autopilot remote for about twelve years now and while it sits at the ready next to the companionway, the reality is, I've not found a practical use for it yet. As a matter of fact, the remote probably hasn't left its holster in at least a decade.

Ever think about moving the cabintop winches to the coaming?

Edited by - on

TakeFive
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Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 13:08:17

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 Although your experience may differ, I've had an autopilot remote for about twelve years now and while it sits at the ready next to the companionway, the reality is, I've not found a practical use for it yet. As a matter of fact, the remote probably hasn't left its holster in at least a decade.

Ever think about moving the cabintop winches to the coaming?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
It is possible that in the end my experience will be the same as yours, but I want to try it and see.

When I first got the boat 3 years ago the autopilot would only work when motoring. It would not hold a course when sailing. Over the past 2 years I have tuned the parameters, and moved the gain setting to the main screen so I can adjust it on the fly based on how turbulent the conditions are. Now that it's tuned and easily adjustable, I use it much more, and even successfully tested the auto-tack feature several times last year. I've also used it in track mode by setting a distant waypoint on my computer, which sends NMEA sentences wirelessly to the autopilot via Bluetooth.

As I started using the autopilot more frequently, I found myself moving out from behind the wheel to sit with my wife and kids, or enjoy the view from different vantage points. I found myself periodically needing to squeeze back to the helm to tweak the course setting by a few degrees. With the remote I will be able to do that from wherever I sit.

I considered moving the winches, but I will still do 95% of my sailing with my wife, and she really likes the winches on the cabintop where she can sit in the companionway and control both winches and the traveler from one location. Moving the winches back would eliminate that benefit for 95% of our sailing. So moving the steering location forward with the remote seemed to be a better option.

We'll see how well it works in actual use. If it doesn't pan out, I'll sell the remote on ebay.

Edited by - TakeFive on 02/12/2013 13:10:19

dlucier
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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
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Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 19:33:34

For me, the autopilot has made me a better sailor as for optimal performance from it requires a properly trimmed and balanced sail plan.

[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6usNpNN9h0w"]Autopilot[/url]

Edited by - on

TakeFive
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Response Posted - 02/12/2013 : 20:11:02

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 For me, the autopilot has made me a better sailor as for optimal performance from it requires a properly trimmed and balanced sail plan...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I agree fully. I forgot to mention that a major part of getting the autopilot to work reliably was adjusting my boat's severe mast rake (12") back to the factory recommended 4". That seemed to reduce the weather helm to a point where the equipment could maintain a course with minimal effort. The improvement in the autopilot's performance has been greatly influenced by my own greater understanding of sail trim on my boat.

Edited by - on

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