Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I know some people were talking about getting a new Tohatsu 4 stroke 9.8. I also know this has been talked to death so I would rather get specific opinions on the new Tohatsu 9.8 So I 'd like to know how they made out?
Price? Where Bought? How it is working etc.
I am re-powering and I found a dealer in Tennessee(?) who will sell a 9.8 4Stroke, Electric Start, Alternator 25" shaft and freight for $1960.
Just want some opinions.
Thanks in advance.
Bob Sirekis "Wind Between The Sheets" 83 SR/FK #3551 Erie Basin marina D-19 Buffalo, New York
The present delivery date on that motor is some time in April. The price you quote is excellent. Mine cost $2250 including tax. Nice little $300 savings.
I bought a Nissan 9.8 two stroke online from http://www.onlineoutboards.com paid $1807 including shipping. In the Nissan line, and I would imagine, in the Tohatsu line 9.8 is a two stroke ob, while the 9'9 is their four stroke.
Two points suggest caution.
(1) The price looks more like a 2 stroke price (2) The designation, 9.8 is the designation for a two stroke
So, I'd be certain what you are getting. My impression is that the four-stroke is $300-400 higher than a two stroke. If what you're talking is a four-stroke, I'd give it serious consideration.
There are three differences in the Tohatsu 9.9 vs the 9.8. One the 9.9 weights 114.4 lbs, two the 25" shaft is not available and last the alternator is 130W 11amp. The 9.8 is lighter (81.5lbs), has the 25" shaft and the alternator is smaller by 5amps. If the model number is MFS9.8AEFUL then it is the 4 stroke and at that price you cannot miss.
That 9.9 Frog is talking about is also Merc's 9.9--a real monster. With electric start, it weighs in at over 120# and does not have an XL shaft. The new 4-stroke is 9.8.
BTW, I just looked at Tohatsu's site... I'm betting the 81 lbs is for the 15" shaft, no electric start, no alternator. The starter, alternator, and XL shaft probably add at least 15-20 lbs. (On the Honda 8, the difference is 25 lbs.)
Shipping weight for my Nissan 9.8 2 stroke, with xls and electric start was 68 pounds. I was surprized when I hefted the box onto my shoulder it was so light. Model number NS9.8BEF4. Tohatsu number would probably be very similar.
Dave, I asked the tech. rep about the weight difference with the Alt. and XL shaft and his response was that it weights in at 87.5lbs. As long as it is 90 or under it is a hugh plus.
Hmmm 10" of drive shaft, lower unit casting, and exhaust pipe, plus alternator and starter motor, all weighing 6.5 lbs... They must be made of plastic! Call me a skeptic... If it's true, and the engine works well, call me envious!
I Bit the Bullet and bought one. Here are the details: $1980.00 delivered to my door. (local dealer wanted $2500.00 for a 20 and said the 25" would not be available for 6 months.) Tohatsu 9.8 4 Stroke 25" shaft. w/ 3 gallon external tank.
(This had to be special ordered delivery will be in 6 weeks. Not a problem as we still have snow and ice around Buffalo, NY, and my marina won't let me in till May 1 anyway.)
Here is their web site. http://www.tohatsu-outboards.com/ My brother has a 9.9 2001 model 2 stroke Tohatsu that he absolutely loves. He uses uses it in the intercoastal waterway in Florida and has used it to cross over to the Bahamas.
I asked dealer if I could break it in a tank as it would take me all year to do the break in properly by sailing it. He said it wouldn't be a problem. So unless I hear drastic negatives from this site I'll be running it in my driveway for a few hours.
What kind of 'tank' are you going to run it in? Note that you won't be able to break it in properly without running a load on the prop. (you need to take the engine through it's rpm ranges under load). It takes a pretty good tank to 'absorb' the full engine hp.
Aside from a test run to make sure it operates properly before you mount it, I'd suggest waiting and break in under usage. This might mean motoring around the lake a bit to 'exercise' the engine through it's rpm range. This is a good practice anyway.
Just using the engine for a few minutes exiting/entering the marina is about the worst thing you can do to it. Periodically you should take a little 'drive' in your boat and bring the engine up to full operating temperature and speed. (the old 'blow the carbon out' routine).
UMH, delivery in six weeks, that equals the end of April or first week in May. I sure hope it is in April. I could break it in easy on the 38.5 mile trip to the start line.
Just received an EM from my dealer today and the new motor will be at his place next wednesday. Since I will be consumed by my son's wedding that week playing "go-for", the plan is to pick it up the following week with the new rudder. Things are starting to come together.
Talked to my dealer when I returned yesterday and the motor is in, been test run and ready to go along with the new rudder. No they did not test run the rudder. We will pick it up tomorrow and weight it to finally put to bed all the hypothesizing about that issue. I will also get a chance to give it a good work out on the 29th heading to the Mug Race start line 38.5 miles south. Of course on the way back we will have to stop and have a couple dozen Rock Shrimp at Dixie Crossroads in Titusville. YUM YUM!!!!!!
Here is the answers to the questions. The engine, with electric start and oil weight out at 91.5 lbs. The shaft length is 28" from the stern bracket to the (Anti Ventilation Plate)(manual name)cavitation plate. I would have like the shifter to be in the motor center, but it is on the starboard side like my Sailmaster. The start button is located on the front just above the tiller handle which makes it a little hard to reach. It would have been nice to have it on the end of the tiller like the stop button on the Sailmaster. The motor is only 13" wide, much smaller than the Honda, so the turning radius should be better. The pull starter is easy to get at so no motor cover has to come off to start it. They gave me a extra pull rope and the manual has instructions for allowing removal of the onboard pull system for Emergencies if all else fails. It only requires the removal of two clips and a bolt and the pull start mechanism is off. The one thing that supprise me was that it only has two cables for the battery. I assuned three, one start, one battery + and one battery -. I guess they switch from start to charge electronically when the start button is released and the motor has RPMs. That is about all I can think of right now, but if other questions come to mind let me know and I will do what I can to answer.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ClamBeach</i> <br />"Cavitation has nothing to do with that plate whatsoever."
True enough... but if you asked most folks about their anti-ventilation plate they might look at you kinda funny. ;>) <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
True...Actually, the antiventilation plate can contribute to cavitation. If the prop were to ventilate, the prop would momentarily rev up causing the prop to possibly cavitate.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br />Cavitation has nothing to do with that plate whatsoever. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Huh? The name for that plate and its purpose have been around since way before you were born, Don... I always thought cavitation was the sucking of air down around the prop, causing a "cavity" in the water. What is it really?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ClamBeach</i> <br />"Cavitation has nothing to do with that plate whatsoever."
True enough... but if you asked most folks about their anti-ventilation plate they might look at you kinda funny. ;>) <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Since I'm in an onery mood tonight....
Actually the plate has plenty to do with cavitation. Its purpose is to prevent ventilation from the surface water to the water column around the prop due to low pressure and aeration drawn down from the surface by the action of the spining prop. Without that plate, that ventilation induced low water pressure would induce cavitation at the prop tips. It's a problem I face from time to time when designing certain pumping systems and have to protect the impeller from ventilation induced cavitation. So anti ventilation or anti cavitation; take your pick.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.