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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Single Backstay-Mainsheet-Furler Control

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2008 : 13:46:49

I just ordered the whole setup. Shipping is $9 so total is $60.97. The Set5 Toggle Jaw is big enough to go over the padeye. The guy laughed and said this was the third such order today. Some of you guys must be ordering too!!

He said it would go out at the end of the week and get to me by the end of next week.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2008 : 13:58:36

That's funny. I told the guy that he should be getting a few orders in. I'm glad you figured out the Set5 Toggle Jaw instead of my small fork. Strengthwise there are is no real difference between my fork and your Toggle Jaw but its more esthetic. May I suggest we put a short technical writeup in the Technical Tips area listing the parts and RiggingOnly as the supplier?

Some of these modifications are so good that they need to be put somewhere a bit more permenant than a forum. This so a new user has new ideas. So far I'm seeing:

- Hard Link
- Soft Link
- Single backstay mod
- Cooler shelves (Nautiduck style)
- The WK trailer front wheel mod for strap launching.
- LED lights
- Nautiduck Trailer disc brake mod
- Lifting a WB boat off it's trailer bunks for painting (My post).
- Reefing mod (Frank's + the single line using 2 blocks)
- Moving the winches to the coamings

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 07/22/2008 14:04:49

welshoff
Captain

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USA
253 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2008 : 14:29:21

Great mod - I had to go with this one. Can't wait to say bye bye to the dance with the backstay. I ordered my parts today. He now has the part list memorized.

I also ordered a [url="http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00027.htm"]Quick Release Lever[/url] model no 14-206 4-hole from pyacht.com. I am going to replace the turnbuckle with the quick release lever.

Edited by - welshoff on 07/22/2008 14:35:04

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2008 : 14:35:57

steve when you measured for cutting the wire ,
did you put the turnbuckle in the middle position ?

and did it stay around the middle when you got it together ?

Edited by - SEAN on 07/22/2008 14:37:44

Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2008 : 14:51:02

OK, OK, OK Can someone put together a diagram of all the parts and how they fit?? I have a 2003 WK with a adjustable split rear stay. Is that what you guys are starting with?

Just feel over my rear stay today - I'm ready!

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2008 : 14:56:15

Sean: No, you need to open the turbuckle all the way before taking your measurment. The reason is that when you will take your measurement you cannot tighten the wires as they would normaly be. Openning the turnbuckle all the way compensates for that fact. Once everyting is setup you tighten the turnbuckle and it should come to about half way at its perfect tightness. I mentioned this before in this thread where I posted pictures if you want to check it out.

Wil: Make sure you also have a turnbuckle so you can make fine adjustments. I'd leave the turnbuckle at the same spot and maybe the quick release lever at at the bottom. Putting the lever right below the turnbuckle might prevent a future bimini install.

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 07/22/2008 15:10:07

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2008 : 15:07:30

PARTS:
-10 feet of 5/32 wire
-Set5 Toggle Jaw, Wire 5/32, Pin 5/16 (swaged by them to the wire)
-Sta-Lok SLEY0510 SwageLess eye, Wire 5/32, Pin 5/16
-Teflon protector tube for 5/32 wire
*Optional for quick release: Quick Release Lever model no 14-206 4-hole from pyacht.com

Instructions on installing your Swageless Eye:

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 07/22/2008 15:10:44

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2008 : 16:01:32

I asked the guy at riggingonly about the wire cover. He was adamant that covering the wires is bad and hastens the degradation of the wire. I think part of the issue is it prevents you from seeing any wire damage plus it traps moisture. I am going to go with his advice.

Edited by - on

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2008 : 16:07:32

thanks steve,
the thread is making me dizzy it so long

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2008 : 18:53:32

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Nautiduck
 I asked the guy at riggingonly about the wire cover. He was adamant that covering the wires is bad and hastens the degradation of the wire. I think part of the issue is it prevents you from seeing any wire damage plus it traps moisture. I am going to go with his advice.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Maybe on a 15+ year period. I really doubt you would see any corrosion or degradation because of moisture. I think the upside to having it covered being so close to the seat far outweighs the downside. Worse case scenario you change the $10 wire.

Edited by - on

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2008 : 08:55:58

I didn't order the cover , because i didn't want to clean it .
is it like the life lines ?

the life lines always get sticky !

Edited by - on

528
Navigator

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USA
181 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2008 : 11:14:35

Only if you eat Gummy Bears first!

It's not vinyl, it's a hard plastic that goes brittle depending on how much UV it gets. I used the 3/16 which is easy to mount and leaves a little room for evaporation. If you want to clean your lifelines, use Ultrabright toothpaste and a rag. Takes a little effort but they clean up well after a rinse.

Edited by - on

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2008 : 12:43:17

hmmmm , Ill try it ! thanks

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2008 : 09:46:51

This thread sure is getting long... :-)

Just wanted to add a discovery I made last night. I needed to disconnect my backstay to retrieve my bimini cover (to have a zipper installed). I mistakenly reinstalled the backstay not going through the seat but outside the seat. I noticed only once underway that I did this, but then saw how convenient and appropriate this setup is. The problem with the cable going kinda through the seat (you know what I mean) is that it will be at about 2" inwards and will rub on your leg a bit when sitting in the seat. When on the outside this problem is solved. I don't think it could be anymore perfect now.

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 07/24/2008 09:47:23

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2008 : 11:10:20

Steve, you know better than to post something like that without a photo.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2008 : 12:54:49

Yes sorry.

I'll take pictures next weekend. I should also have my bimini setup with bimini butler and all. They are installing my zippers as I write this.

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 07/24/2008 12:56:38

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2008 : 20:01:17

O happy day - ,Im done 15 minuets

the set 5 fits

I feel like I have a convertible

its a little windy for a first run

but lets go !!

OK I did get a little nervous , so I backed it up with some line (just in case)

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2008 : 20:28:17

I was looking at mine last night. I was wondering why it was necesary to go to all the trouble of replacing the wire and the swedged on end and the swageless end, etc. and etc. Why not just replace the little triangular piece of steel at the "Y" junction with a strait connection between the turnbuckle and the single lower cable? Engineers, what am I missing?

Edited by - on

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2008 : 20:34:21

I think it would be to long ?

Im not crazy about it rubbing the stern seat .
but its out of the way for now , and that ok by me .

Edited by - SEAN on 07/26/2008 20:45:57

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2008 : 20:37:36

and its only 59$ best mod yet - GO DAVE !

Edited by - on

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2008 : 20:40:57

Randy dont forget the lock tight for the sta-lok .

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2008 : 22:23:26

Thanks for the loc-tite idea. I am waiting to see Steve's new photos of going outside the seat. I wonder if that option still rubs against the seat frame?

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 07/27/2008 : 01:13:35

I wanted to show you guys a picture of the backstay going outside the seat but my wife decided to take a walk and leave me locked inside the marina for about 2 hours. The camera was in the car. So I went ahead and installed my bimini with my new zippers hoping that putting the backstay outside the seat wouldn't cause too much of an alignment problem. Well it did, I originaly took my zipper measurement with the cable inside the seat and it fits real well. Outside the seat not so well. I would need to move the zipper to port about 3". I'm gonna have the zipper moved the 3" as a winter project.

So this one falls into the category "trust me guys". Trust me when I tell you that you want to pass the backstay OUTSIDE of the catbird seat. for 2 reasons:
1) The wire will rest against your leg when on the seat
2) The wire will hit your head when wanting to lounge on the main starboard seat looking forward.

These 2 issue do not happen when the wire is outside.

The best advice I can give is to try it for yourself. Try both positions and post back your comments here. Yes going outside the catbird seat is not the direct route, but you will see how little of a deal that is. The wire has plenty of play on the horizontal plane anyways. It's very clear once you try it. Just learn from my bimini mistake (the 3").

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 07/27/2008 : 01:19:38

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by SEAN
 I think it would be to long ?

Im not crazy about it rubbing the stern seat .
but its out of the way for now , and that ok by me .
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Sean put a short piece of the plastic wire cover I used not to damage your stainless seats.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 07/27/2008 : 01:20:41

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Nautiduck
 Thanks for the loc-tite idea. I am waiting to see Steve's new photos of going outside the seat. I wonder if that option still rubs against the seat frame?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Absolutely I put lots of loctite on the Swageless and once set in just cleaned with a paper towel. Real pro result.

Edited by - on

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