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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've got the bitter end of the bow anchor line secured to the pulpit. Very sloppy.. and in the way. I'd thought I'd add a cleat inside the anchor locker, but that would hang up line so now I'm thinking and eye bolt. Seems the anchor locker wall is kinda thin.
Suggestions?
Thank You..
Ray in Atlanta, Ga. "Lee Key" '84 Catalina 25 Standard Rig / Fin Keel
I drilled the back wall and put an eye bolt with a big backing plate in the V Berth. It is caulked. No problems. Not designed to hold the boat in place against the anchor and a big wind - just to keep the bitter end on board.
I haven't had but a quick look in the anchor locker, and that was last fall. I am planning to install a bow eye from Catalina Direct to attach to the trailer winch and strap. Perhaps an eye strap could fit on the inside before the nuts go on... Makes you wonder though, where did the designers intend the anchor rode to be made off? Any thoughts on enlarging the anchor locker drain hole or installing a thru-hull there? @ redeye: Where did you get that bung kit? I'm going to be patching the original transducer holes, and installing 3 new ones in the hull under the v-berth
The bow eye doesn't go to the locker; it will be in the space behind the wood panel in the v-berth compartment, or possibly under the v-berth. I haven't looked in a couple of years and don't remember which.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by sailingchefs</i> <br />Any thoughts on enlarging the anchor locker drain hole or installing a thru-hull there?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Glenn, perhaps you can take a cue from Catalina. They made many improvements to the 89 C25 - which included relocating the anchor locker drain to starboard and closer to the waterline. I'm not sure of the proper terminology but I assume the longer drop creates some additional downward force on the water flow. How's that for layman's terms?
I stand corrected on the bow eye location...still, what did they intend? I guess a well-backed eye strap is the most elegant solution for the bitter end since you're going to be up at the bow anyway, dropping the anchor over and paying out the right length of rode. The anchor locker drain upgrade is just like the one I did on the Hunter I lost last year. She got all smashed up, but that anchor locker drained perfectly! At first glance though, it seems my locker is much more shallow than the 89's. That is, unless there's hose in between. :) Either way a fairly quick low-budget/ high-benefit upgrade. The Hunter's anchor locker leaked into the bilge like a sieve because of poor construction, and eventually contributed to mold and bulkhead rot problems and possibly the tragic level of blistering on the hull. But I digress...this is headed for a different thread.
<< redeye: Where did you get that bung kit? >>
West Marine.
Well I added a ubolt with backing and lifecaulk and secured the bitter end, and then proceeded to get the anchor hung so bad I had to cut the line. Lake Lanier is unforgiving at times. I've got a new mooring now. Now I hafta fight with myself if I want to dive it and bring it up or not.
I've been on the bottom diving and found large flat areas with hard clay and cut off stumps, erosion exposing the root system. Perfect anchor snags. The anchors drag on the clay till they find a stump...
But hey... did I mention I had a GREAT weekend sailing!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimB517</i> <br />I drilled the back wall and put an eye bolt with a big backing plate in the V Berth. It is caulked. No problems. Not designed to hold the boat in place against the anchor and a big wind - just to keep the bitter end on board. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Is there a slot in the lip of the compartment or the cover that allows the rode to fit with the lid down? I'd like to do something like you suggest but then the cover wouldn't close when the anchor was deployed. Not a big problem but a good wind could flip it up and I could see myself stepping on the lid by accident and possibly breaking it. I don't think the locker would close on my '80 with the rode attached in this way. Or would it?
You know, I tied off my rode last summer before our cruise, but I'll be Hog-tied and horn-swaggled if I can remember what was in that locker to tie off to.
The PO musta retrofit something in there. I do remember the old rode didn't want to let go of it, but was so rotted the line sliced away super easy. IIRC it was a metal plate or something like that with a hole in it. Could be totally wrong though.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by redeye</i> <br />Slot in the front on mine. big enough for several lines. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I'd love to see a picture, if you or anyone has one. I might try to alter my anchor locker to allow it to close with a line exiting but I don't want to create a new problem while I'm at it!
Todd, doesn't your locker have a notch in the forward edge of its cover to accommodate the line leaving the locker? My boat is a little newer than yours, so this may have been a refinement sometime between 1980 and 1984, but out anchor locker is rarely propped open, unless we are trying to stow an oversized anchor up there. Someday i may have to make a doghouse style cover to accommodate the big anchor we bought last year.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i> <br />Todd, doesn't your locker have a notch in the forward edge of its cover to accommodate the line leaving the locker? My boat is a little newer than yours, so this may have been a refinement sometime between 1980 and 1984, but out anchor locker is rarely propped open, unless we are trying to stow an oversized anchor up there. Someday i may have to make a doghouse style cover to accommodate the big anchor we bought last year.
In any case, if you zoom into the forward part of this picture you can see the notch in the cover that the line exits through. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Got the picture. Thanks!
I'm almost certain that my locker doesn't have a notch but the boat is 2 hours away so I can't go check. It will be one of the first things I look at the next time I'm up there, though. Now I'm really curious...
I'm almost certain that my locker doesn't have a notch but the boat is 2 hours away so I can't go check. It will be one of the first things I look at the next time I'm up there, though. Now I'm really curious...
Maybe not... I did an image search on "Catalina 25 Bow anchor roller" since that would bring up pics in the vicinity of the notch, and got pointed right back to the forum in this thread: http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21119, there this picture shows that not everyone has that nice little dimple:
You are looking at the foredeck of JohnP's boat Gypsy - a 1978 model there.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">you can see the notch in the cover that the line exits through<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">It would appear the notch is actually adjacent to the hatch, not in it. My 78 has no notch, in the hatch or otherwise.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Sloop Smitten</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">you can see the notch in the cover that the line exits through<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">It would appear the notch is actually adjacent to the hatch, not in it. My 78 has no notch, in the hatch or otherwise. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
My first reaction to the picture of Gypsy's "notch" wasn't good. I thought that it must get pretty wet in there. And after I thought about it for a minute I changed my mind. One of the problems I have after a weekend out is leaving the boat for 5 days with a soaking wet rode closed up in the anchor locker with no ventilation. I would be better off with a big hole in the cover. At least there would be some ventilation! I don't see the down-side. Does anyone want to convince me <u>not</u> to cut a similar notch?
I wonder how big of a learning experience it would be to make a mould using the old cover and making the mods you need. Not sure whether I'd be up for that or not.
It might be easier to cut the notch to match a clamshell vent. The clamshell could aact as a handle for opening the locker, but it would be facing the wrong way, and might catch more wind/water/whatever than you'd like.
You know red, it sounds so easy when you say it like that, but I know that if I attempted any repair that involved gelcoat, I would end up with a polka-dot boat. I fear gel-coat matching.
It is not gonna match, you just want to get the edge you cut sealed off so it will not abrade the line and so water will not get into the lid. You will have a white bead of gelcoat that looks whiter at the edge, and it will make the edge smooth.
it is easy, no biggie.
Do the edge of the piece you cut off first to get a feel for how it will behave. It will not look professional but it will keep you from getting cut by the lid..
Everyone should well versed with using resin if you have a fiberglass boat. Start small.
I put the u bolt on the aft side of the anchor locker, now I've got the bolts sticking out 2-3 inches on the inside that I've gotta cut. If I did it again I'd probably put the bolt on the post side of the locker.
I have a snap shackle (Attwood anchor line swivel shackle) tied to the end of the anchor line. When I want to use the anchor, the end goes around the bow pulpit and the snap shackle is applied to the line to secure it (or if there is room just snap the shackle to the lifeline loop. Any number of possibilities since the purpose is to keep the end of the line on the boat, not to take pressure from the anchor line. That's a bow cleat's job.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by redeye</i> <br />I put the u bolt on the aft side of the anchor locker, now I've got the bolts sticking out 2-3 inches on the inside that I've gotta cut. If I did it again I'd probably put the bolt on the post side of the locker. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">You should be able to make the inside bolts any length you want... Put nuts and washers (or one of the two backers that come with it?) about an inch (or less) onto the U-bolt, mount the U-bolt in the holes, and then fasten with the other backer and two more nuts inside. (How big of a U-bolt did you use??)
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.